We’ve had tube doors and lefties and skid plates a-plenty.
But this year the projects are well below twenty.
So maybe we’ll settle for just three or four.
Perhaps in the following months there ‘ll be more.
For now let’s just say it concerns a new winch.
No longer will snatching be used in a pinch.
Attached to the winch, could it be a new bumper?
In order to mount we must move the old pumper.
New hoses, and wire, and loom all completed,
Our energy levels are nearly depleted.
But things are not finished so we must press on
Deploying the shop lights until crack of dawn.
Brackets, and washers, and numerous bolts,
Removing the battery – no need for jolts.
Repeating this process two or three times,
Instructions were faulty but it’s not a crime.
‘Cause several days later, our project’s complete,
With wires and hoses all tucked nice and neat.
Still need to attach the largest of cables,
Perhaps with more time we’d surely be able
To finish this project once and for all
But wait, we’re not done yet, I see you’re enthralled.
In addition to having a better-built tugger,
We recently mounted a fancy air chugger.
With tankfuls of carbon dioxide on board,
The logic and reason could not be ignored.
Ten pounds if you’re lucky and then you run out,
Regardless of how long you stand there and pout.
Rather than sticking with nothing but traces
We opted to purchase a brand new Oasis.
I see from your eyes that you’re fairly impressed.
But wait ’til you see how the air is compressed.
All this and more will be ready and waiting.
There’s no need to whisper and stand there debating.
I hear what you say and completely agree.
The details are coming and soon you will see,
The best kind of projects are ones that are free*.

*DISCLAIMER: Only the instructions are free. Parts and labor cost extra.

If you’re wondering why we purchased a separate vehicle when the FJ is perfectly qualified to tow, the answer is two-fold. Firstly, the FJ is limited to a 5000 lb maximum towing capacity. Secondly, the FJ, in future scenarios, will become the “towee”, rather than the one doing the towing. It goes without saying that I’m a huge fan of the FJ Cruiser. But this scenario harkens back to the old adage of using the right tool for the job. The FJ was designed as a comfortable commuter and capable off-roader. In these areas it achieves high marks. But when it comes to heavy duty towing, the FJ Cruiser lacks the capacity to keep up with it’s larger V8-powered cousins. As far as hauling, the internal space of the FJ is quite limited and the suspension was simply not designed to support large amounts of weighty cargo. So we needed an alternate solution to fill in the gap and began looking for a new draftee back in late February of this year (2012).

Operation Powerstroke – Stage One:

Having owned a string of Ford Powerstroke diesel pickups over the years, the question of brand was pretty much a no-brainer. That’s not to say that Chevy or Dodge products are any less capable. My personal preference for Ford trucks is based on a long history of Ford truck ownership, specifically those powered by Ford’s IDI and Powerstroke diesel engines. As heavy duty pickups go, Ford trucks have always treated my very well and have been more than capable of hauling anything I put behind them with ease. My very first Ford truck was a 1991 Ford F-250 with a 6.9 liter IDI diesel engine. After less than a year of ownership, I made the mistake of selling it for a sports car at the time. I quickly regretted my decision after only two weeks and began searching for another Ford diesel to replace it. I found a 1994 F-350 crew cab long bed that housed Ford’s first official 7.3 liter Powerstroke branded engine. From that point forward I traded up almost exclusively for newer Ford diesels, to include a 1997 F-350 standard cab, a  2002 F-350 super cab, and a 2005 F-350 crew cab – all powered by Ford’s patented Powerstroke diesel for each respective model year.

So as I stated earlier, the manufacturer was never in debate. The trick then was to find something that would meet our needs without killing our bank account. Anyone who’s purchased a new diesel pickup in the last five years is no doubt aware of the average going rate for a brand new truck. We decided pretty early on that we didn’t want to spend anywhere near to that kind of cash. So I started perusing the used truck ads on Craigslist and various online truck forums. One of the advantages of owning and driving a collection of trucks spanning 14 model years is that it gives you some pretty good insight as to the strengths and weaknesses of the individual builds for each year. In my case, I did a lot of digging into the pros and cons of the 7.3 liter engine versus its eventual replacement, the 6.0. The 6.0 liter engine was first introduced in the 2nd quarter of the 2003 model year and continued to serve as Ford’s primary powerplant in their Super Duty diesel trucks until the 6.4 liter engine arrived in 2008.

There is a plethora of online information available on both the 7.3 and the 6.0 liter engines, but like anything on the Internet, one must carefully consider the sources to determine the validity of the information being presented. In my case, I had experienced zero issues with either engine, but research showed the 7.3 liter engine to be more resilient to bad fuel, extended oil change intervals, etc. In other words, the 7.3 could handle a lot more abuse than the 6.0 liter engine. There were also a host of problematic issues associated with the 6.0 liter that at first glance might sway a potential buyer in the direction of the 7.3 liter.

However, if you continue researching long enough to get past all the nay-Sayers and nonsensical chatter, you’ll find that most of the problems noted in the 6.0 liter design have been fixed or can be easily eliminated using aftermarket parts. On top of that, the 6.0 liter trucks produce considerably more horsepower and torque and have the added optional bonus of being mated with a TorqueShift 5-speed automatic transmission. One of the biggest weaknesses in the older 7.3 liter trucks was the 4R100 4-speed transmission as it just wasn’t designed to stand up to the torque of the 7.3 liter engine. The TorqueShift on the other hand, performs like a champ under stock conditions with very little notable problems.

Cosmetically, the look of the trucks didn’t vary a whole lot until the 2005 model year trucks, where Ford changed the design of the front grille, lights, mirrors and more. Interior options increased as well with Ford now offering features such as a built-in brake controller, upfitter accessory switches, automatic climate control, switched rear sliding window and a factory sun roof. The 2005 trucks were also subject to a suspension overhaul, moving the front end from leaf springs to a coil spring system. This change resulted in a slight improvement in ride quality and helped to reduce the overall turning radius. In the areas of payload and safety, the newer trucks benefited from a thicker frame and larger brakes, allowing them to increase their previous gross vehicle and gross combined weight ratings. In the end, the decision was pretty easy to make. In order to maximize our interior space and our hauling capacity as much as possible, we set our sights on advertisements for Ford F-350 crew cab dually trucks built between the 2005 and 2007 model years.

After strategically researching a variety of ads and options available, we finally found a truck that met all of our requirements. My initial inspection of the truck (prior to purchase) had left me confident that the truck was in good order, but I’d decided to take the extra step and have the truck inspected by a local Ford dealership as well. This particular dealer had a dedicated shop of diesel mechanics as they were responsible for servicing many of the Ford truck fleet owners in the area. By the end of the inspection, the proposed repair bill for everything combined was slightly more than I expected, but the total amount of issues was minor. The bulk of the repair cost involved replacing a cracked turbo inlet pipe and a leaky rear axle seal. All in all, I was very happy. It took a few weeks in total to coordinate inspections, sales paperwork, and all the financing details, but as of March, 2012, we officially became the proud new owners of a 2005 Ford F-350 Super Duty pickup with only 54k miles on the odometer. Now that the truck was sitting firmly in our driveway, it was time for the second portion of Operation Powerstroke.

Operation Powerstroke – Stage Two:

During some of my initial comparison research on the differences between the 6.0 and 7.3 liter engines, I happened across Powerstroke Specialties, or as they’re better known on the interwebs, PowerstrokeHelp.com. Located in Buford, Georgia, the company’s owner, Bill Hewitt, has spent the better part of four years generating free online tutorials and other informational videos, detailing the ins and outs of Ford’s Powerstroke engines. If you have some spare time and are interested in finding out more about your Ford diesel, I highly suggest visiting Bill’s Powerstroke Help channel on YouTube. As a caveat, I feel the need to point out that some of the information provided in older videos has since been superseded by newer content or updated information from Ford. Like any online resource, common sense should be employed when reviewing any technical information, but overall, Bill’s videos are a great resource for Powerstroke owners.

After a thorough review of more than my fair share of videos, I decided to call Powerstroke Specialities for more information on their 6.0 liter “bulletproofing” package. I spoke with Scott Gleason, the company’s service manager and friendly-faced front man for the operation. Over the course of the next  several weeks and multiple phone conversations with Scott, I made arrangements to drop the truck off at their location in Buford, Georgia for a complete overhaul. With Scott’s assistance, we formulated a step-by-step plan that would allow me to complete all required repairs on the truck, as well as completely bulletproofing any weak points in the 6.0 liter engine. And since the truck was already in for servicing, I opted to have all the major component fluids (minus the transmission) replaced with their synthetic equivalents as well. The following is a complete list of repairs, upgrades or other changes made to the truck shortly before or during my visit to Georgia:

Local Upgrades Prior to the Trip

• Replaced the windshield with an OEM equivalent (old windshield had a large crack)
• Replaced windshield wipers
• Replaced all four rear tires with Michelin LTX A/T 2 tires

Powerstroke Specialties – Base Upgrades or Repairs

• Cylinder Head Inspection – No head resurfacing or valve work was required
• Black Onyx Head Gaskets
• ARP Head Studs
• EGR Delete Kit
• New Gaskets – Intake, Exhaust, Fuel Bowl, Oil Pump, etc.
• New Oil Cooler Kit
• New Radiator Cap and Motorcraft Thermostat
• New Water Pump
• New Freon – Flush and Recharge
• New Coolant – Flush and Refill
• New Oil and Fuel Filters (see Additional Upgrades for oil upgrades)
• Completely Disassemble, Clean and Inspect HCFM (Fuel Pump Mgmt System)
• Completely disassemble and clean the Turbocharger, check for problems, reassemble
• Inspect Oil Pump
• Update A/C System
• Update the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) and perform a complete air check
• Update the HPOP coupler to the latest bracket
• Replaced old injectors with 8 new Ford reman injectors (at my request) *NIIBP
• Belts and Hoses Inspection
• New Fuel Injection Control Module  *NIIBP
• Replaced motor oil dipstick  *NIIBP
• SCT Tuner with 8 Tuning Options
• Includes 3 custom tunes: EGR Delete, 80HP/140TQ Economy, 60HP/90TQ Towing

Powerstroke Specialties – Additional Upgrades

• Amsoil Oil Bypass Kit
• Amsoil Bypass Filter
• Amsoil Extended Interval Oil filter
• Amsoil Synthetic Engine Oil
• Additional inline Racor Fuel Filter

Powerstroke Specialties – Maintenance and Repair

• Replaced cracked turbo inlet pipe
• Replaced rear passenger axle seal
• Replaced ABS sensor in rear diff
• Replaced passenger side mirror blinker assembly
• Tightened hydroboost line to fix leak
• Changed differential fluid in both diffs (front changed to synthetic)
• Changed transfer case fluid to synthetic
• Changed auto transmission fluid and filters
• Full brake inspection

*NIIBP = Not included in Bulletproofing Package

In summation, I’d just like to sincerely thank Bill, Scott, John, Mike and Gambino at Powerstroke Specialties for making this trip a complete success. Scott, in particular, is a great guy to deal with and really bent over backwards to help me in the total cost of this upgrade. Out the door, the final price for bulletproofing, upgrades and repairs was not cheap, but the end cost was more than fair considering all the work that was done. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn’t hesitate to make the trip to Georgia if it meant these guys would be working on my truck. They did a great job in record time and I’m extremely pleased with the trucks newly-tuned throttle response and day-to-day performance. And knowing the engine will be trouble-free for years to come makes it all the more worthwhile.

If you’ve made it this far in the article, you’re probably asking yourself, “But who is the masked mystery vehicle in the photo above?” Up ’til now, the truck’s identity has remained a secret, unknown to anyone outside the immediate Expeditionr family. But fair is fair. You’ve shown tenacity and fortitude by reading this entire article and deserve to be rewarded for your efforts. Although we still don’t have a whole lot of photographic proof that this new member really exists, we did manage to capture the truck during an “off” moment when he wasn’t wearing his disguise. So we’d like to take this opportunity to introduce all the readers to the newest adopted member of the Expeditionr family – a member who shall be known henceforth as the mighty HAULHOG. Here’s to you, HAULHOG, and your continued longevity and reliability in the years to follow.

HINT: Click the image below to view HAULHOG’s secret identity.

Update:

With several months of driving now under our belt, HAULHOG continues to impress us. Compared to our previous 2005 Super Duty Powerstroke, which was completely stock minus a lift and tires, the performance of this latest truck runs well above expectation. For daily commuting we’re currently running the Performance tune off the SCT Tuner, netting us around 405 horsepower and 710 foot pounds of torque. Considering HAULHOG’s curb weight is north of 8,000 pounds, the “get-up-and-go” factor is pretty impressive, especially on the top end. As of right now, the projected 5th wheel weight will be just over 9,000 pounds, finishing well under the GCVW rating. HAULHOG will of course be detuned somewhat, using the Towing tune (385HP/660TQ) to reduce the EGTs as well as assist with shifting on grades. Regardless of the tuning, I have great confidence in the truck’s ability to get us there and back with the ease and comfort I’ve come to expect from Ford Super Duty trucks. Stay tuned for more adventures both on and off the pavement!

In addition to the traditional article listing, the home page now carousels through a selection of the more popular posts as well as listing recent visitor comments, and a new option for visitor subscriptions that allows readers to easily keep tabs on the latest Expeditionr updates, posts and visitor feedback. Lastly, rather than traditional paging methods, the newly added Archives area makes locating older content much quicker, listing the last 50 articles by default, along with categories and archive dates  based on a total article count for that item. Over the course of the next few weeks, I’ll be continuing to tweak the site’s features so please be patient if you find the site temporarily unresponsive or otherwise preoccupied. Each overhaul, be it visual, functional, or both, has the underlying intention of improving content delivery to you, the reader. I’m always interested in site feedback, so if you experience any problems with the latest updates or would like to leave a comment in general, please feel free to contact me.

Over the course of the last week or so, you may have noticed some new content cropping up on the main page. Several of these articles were well overdue considering the legwork behind the content was completed months ago. But these recent additions are more instructional and not necessarily timeline-specific, so hopefully these procedures will see their usefulness in good time. One of the most recent articles covers dis-assembly and re-assembly of the Hutchinson Rock Monster split rim beadlocks, while the other details the creation and installation of canvas door inserts for Metal Tech’s tube doors. If you visit the site regularly, these latest articles should reside immediately below this entry. However, if your entry point for the Expeditionr site updates is Facebook, your experience will be slightly different.

Once again, Expeditionr finds itself creeping into the world of web and software. The most recent updates to Facebook fan pages have left content (and this content owner) in a state of confusion and disarray. Content was formerly displayed in a simple row by row format, placing any newly-published content at the top of the page. Facebook designers have now developed a vertical “timeline” format that attempts to group your content visually, by date of creation. While both formats utilize a reverse chronological methodology to display an author’s updates, this new layout does not display ALL of the author’s content by default. You now have the option of viewing just highlights, or content based on individual years or months. With the option of displaying based on chronology, likes, or photos, you can also narrow your results further, filtering by friend activity, posts by page or posts by others. I’m sure it makes perfect sense to the designers, but it’s left this author a bit bewildered because it appears that more than half of my content has just disappeared into the ether. I tried a number of different options but failed to locate anything published prior to March of 2010.

As an application developer myself, I love to get creative and try things that others have only imagined. I have no doubt that someone on the Facebook development team thought this was a great idea – a newfangled visual approach to chronological data display. Great, I get it. But if the focus is truly on the timeline, then how about giving authors the ability to choose which content gets displayed or modify the publish or creation date of the content. This would allow publishers like myself, to keep content in sync with content stored at a sister site or other alternate location. As it currently stands, I have no choice but to re-publish the content that went missing, and in doing so, potentially confuse the viewers. It will remain synchronized here at Expeditionr, but those visitors who get their updates through Facebook stand a chance of being unexpectedly re-exposed to content that was published in 2009 or 2010. While I don’t personally have a problem with readers reviewing the older content here at Expeditionr (I encourage it actually), I’d rather avoid republished old content as though it were new. All it does it leave the audience perplexed as to why I’ve apparently lost my mind.

In the end, in order to ensure that all the previous content was available via Facebook, I opted to republish the articles. So my apologies up front for subjecting you (via Facebook) to previously published content. If anyone discovers duplicate entries for Expeditionr on Facebook, please let me know how you managed to find the older content. As it stands right now, with sites like Twitter and Facebook continually changing, I’m left with only two choices: 1) go with the flow of software development or 2) forgo any further usage of alternative publishing sites. Since a good portion of my visitors arrive from Facebook and Twitter, I’ll continue to roll with the software developers and do my best to keep in time with the drum of never-ending application updates.

Day one of the 2010 CMCC was both hot and dry and by the end of the first day, the interior of the FJ was heavily coated with several layers of dust and dirt. But the tube doors worked spectacularly, allowing me to target my approach with much greater precision than at previous events. The enhanced visibility and openness of the tube doors left me feeling more relaxed and able to soak in the outdoor environment all the more. Day two of this event proved to be a bit more challenging. To say I wasn’t prepared for rain is not entirely true. I had actually purchased a pair of heavy cloth shower curtains, along with a corresponding set of plastic shower curtains, completing the pairing with two sets of shower curtain rings. By combining these items, I was able to hang a heavy-light curtain combo off of the roof rack using the rings, draping the curtains over the exposed doors and (hopefully) preventing the majority of the rain from entering the vehicle. The biggest trick to these homemade rain blockers? You have to actually use them.

Playing the odds, I decided it wasn’t worth the effort to hang the curtains the first night. The chances of rain were slim, or so the meteorologists would have had me believe. Their error, and my misplaced confidence in their judgement, cost me a good hour of time the next morning. I came out to find the FJ full of several inches of pooling rain water and a well soaked interior. To add to the frustration, the layers of dust that had gathered on the trail the previous day, had transformed into 1/8″ of mud that was now slowing seeping into every nook and cranny it could find. It was only after a good hour of bailing, soaking, wringing and wiping that I finally returned the FJ to a somewhat drivable condition. Nonetheless deterred, I mounted my now squishy throne of a seat, atopped with several damp towels and drove to a nearby gas station to fill up for the day’s activities.

The fun was just beginning, however, as the rain gods were not done with me yet. As I waited patiently for the tank to fill, a fellow FJ owner stopped by to top off their own tank. After the initial cordialities, the conversation turned to the Metal Tech tube doors and the owner asked how they performed on the road when it was raining. Without the experience, I answered honestly that I didn’t know but that I expected to find out soon enough if the weather continued as predicted. With my tank now filled, I departed the gas station, eager to hit the trails. At this time, the rain had stopped but the road and highway surfaces were still quite saturated from the night before. As my speed increased, the combination of wind and road spray kicked up by the tires, began to flow upwards into the interior of the FJ. Once the water reached the interior, the inner vortex of wind began to whip the rain about like a small tornado, coating everything in site. This lasted no longer than five minutes before the interior of the windshield became so completely drenched that any further progress was impossible due to the lack of visibility. So I pulled over to the side of the road and used the towels beneath me to remedy the problem.

I decided it would be safer to take the back roads to the park, rather than the freeway, as I could travel at lower speeds and hopefully reduce the water ingest. By the time I reached the park, despite the reduced speeds, my entire left side was completely saturated and the interior of the FJ was once again well coated with moisture. But at this stage, with no stock doors in sight, I didn’t have much choice but to continue for the day. Luckily for me, the weather was feeling a bit more cooperative that day, providing us with some pretty decent temperatures and a decided lack of moisture. As the sun crawled further upwards from the horizon, things began to warm up and dry out a bit, and for the remaining two days of the event no further incidents occurred. As usual, I had a lot of fun, despite the unexpected bathing, but I left the event with the realization that my tube doors, in their current form, were not as user-friendly as they could be. So I began to devise a solution to this problem.

The following steps show my progression through this process and will hopefully help others who wish to follow a similar path.I should note that the stock Metal Tech tube doors do not include the expanded metal fill or any type of outer skin. I requested the addition of expanded metal for additional protection while wheeling and it turned out to be just what I needed for this project. Anyone looking to follow these steps would need to have the same expanded metal or a similar skin added prior to assembly. So we begin with the default doors plus an outer layer of expanded metal. This outer layer provides additional rigidity and protection and serves as the eventual mounting point for tube door canvas pads.

As far as tools and materials go, you will require the following items to complete this project. For the cloth, padding, and velcro, I don’t recall exactly how much of each item I purchased but I attempted as best as I could, to provide rough estimates on quantities for each item.

• One 4′x4′ sheet of cardboard or small ream of paper
• 4′x8′ sheet of 5/8″ oriented strand board (OSB) or plywood alternative (1 sheet)
• Heavy black duck fabric or similar canvas material (~12 yards)
• Heavy gauge black nylon thread designed for canvas or a similar material thickness (2 spools)
• 1″ wide black velcro stripping with sticky back (~12 feet)
• 2″ wide black velcro stripping with sticky back (~12 feet)
• Black permanent marker
• Carpenter’s pencil
• Sewing machine
• Box of sewing pins (1 box)
• Heavy duty sewing machine needle designed for heavy canvas or leather
• Heavy duty fabric scissors
• 1 1/2″ thick memory foam mattress material (~16 sq ft)
• 22″x22″x4″ densified mildew-resistant batting like Nu-Foam (1 sheet)
• 1/4″x1″ stainless hex head bolts (4)
• 1 1/2″ stainless washers with 1/4″ centers (4)
• Stainless lock washers with 1/4″ centers (4)
• 1 1/2″ rubber washers with 1/4″ centers (4)
• 1/4″  T-nut (4)
• 3/8″ Drill
• 1/4″ drill bit
• 1/4″ grommet kit
• Claw hammer
• Jig or scroll saw with semi-course wood blade
• Safety goggles
• Waterproofing spray (4 cans)

Metal Tech Tube Door Canvas Fillers – Part One:

In my initial stages, I opted to use the memory foam batting for the main pieces in the doors. But due to a lack of mounting mechanism and rigidity, I decided to add the 5/8″ plywood backing behind the batting. I began by laying the doors down flat and I initially used the cardboard (or individual pieces of paper taped together), marker and scissors to cut out a template that would be used to trace the lines for cutting out the board backing. For the template, begin by tracing a larger area than you’ll need. Once you have the initial template cut out, you can then trim off a little at a time as required. The template should be as large as possible so your canvas fillers will fit snugly against the tube door frame. But it should also be able to sit flat against your expanded metal and fit through the inner tube frame without bending. It’s a little tricky to get the templates exact as each tube door is going to be slightly different. But when it doubt, hedge on the side of too large. Once you use the template to cut out your plywood, you can always trim a little off the wood if needed. The whole idea of this project, after all, is to fill the open space of the doors as much as possible in order to limit the amount of water and debris that can enter the vehicle.

Once you have a preliminary template, you can use this template to trace out lines on your OSB or plywood with the carpenter’s pencil. With your safety goggles in place, use the jig saw to cut out your board backing pieces. Once cut, make sure you mark your board based on the door it will be used within. The board will not be visible behind the canvas so anywhere will do. Place the board against your tube door for a test fit. You may have to trim the board in one or more places depending on the accuracy of your template. The board should slide easily in and out of the tube door frame with minimal clearance. If it’s too tight, you will probably have to trim it somewhat as the canvas cloth, once donned, will add a slight amount of thickness. Make sure you account for the tube door mounting bolts in this process. The heads of these bolts, once mounted, will stick into the frame area approximately 1/4″ so the forward-facing edge of the board will need to be notched appropriately to accommodate the bolt heads.

With the boards now cut and test fitted, it’s time to move onto the memory foam. Using the permanent marker, lay each board upon the foam and trace an outline. Use your scissors to cut out each piece of memory foam and once again, mark each piece of foam based on the corresponding door. The memory foam template doesn’t need to be exact as it’s pretty pliable, so no worries if it’s slightly off in dimension. Once the two pieces of foam have been cut, use each piece respectively as a template for tracing the outlines of your canvas covers. You’ll need two identical pieces of canvas per door (one for each side of the wrap). While tracing, be sure and leave approximately 2″-3″ of extra material around the outside of your foam edge. This extra material will be used to cover the vertical edges of the foam and plywood backing.

With a total of four pieces of canvas (two for each door), use your sewing pins to pin each pair of canvas pieces together around the outer edges, leaving about 1/2″ of material outside of the pinned area. Do this for all sides of the material except the forward-facing edge that will sit against your tube door mounting bolts. This side will remain open to allow you to slide your board and foam into the canvas sleeve you’ve now created using the pins as an outline. I found it was easier to insert the memory foam first as the canvas material is more flexible without the board in place. Once you’ve got the foam in place, slide the board in behind it. It should be nice and snug but not overly tight as this will make getting the materials in and out of the sleeve much more difficult. Test your fit of the sleeve and adjust your pins as necessary to ensure all the edges fit snugly.

Once you’re happy with your fit, remove the memory foam and the board. At this stage you can now use your sewing machine to hem the forward facing edges where you insert the board and foam. This will help prevent the canvas from unraveling. Next, you’ll need to sew the two canvas halves together by following a path just outside your line of pins. Feel free to cut away any excess material beyond an inch wide or so. Be sure not to cut too much more in case you need to make adjustments later. Trim any excess thread and then flip the newly created canvas sleeve inside out so the ragged edges are now on the inside. The forward-facing edges of the sleeve that are used to insert the board and foam will each get a strip of velcro that will be used to wrap up the sleeve once the materials are inside. In order to wrap one edge over the other (for a neater look), I opted to sew one strip of velcro on the inside edge and the opposing strip of velcro on the outside edge of the sleeve. Pay close attention to how the materials will wrap to ensure you’re using the correct piece of velcro and the correct side of the material. Re-insert your board backing and foam and close the sleeve using the newly added velcro at the front of the sleeve. Take the sleeves, now filled with board and foam, out to the tube doors for a test fit to ensure there aren’t any obvious fitment issues. Again, the sleeve should fit snugly in between the tube door frame and sit flat against the outer metal skin of the door. If it doesn’t then you will need to make some adjustments.

Once you get a good fit, it’s time to add the last piece of the puzzle: the mounting hardware. Even if the sleeves fit snugly, there’s still a chance that they could fall or be knocked out of place. To prevent this, you will need to add some T-nuts to the inside of your backing board. Remove the board backing from the sleeves and place it in the tube doors so that it sits flat against the outer door skin or expanded metal. Two mounting points should be more than enough to hold the door fills in place but you can add more if you prefer. I selected two locations several inches in from the front and back of the door respectively, centering the mounting points between the top and bottom of the door on each side. Mark each spot with your pencil or marker and then remove the board from the tube door. Drill out each location with a 1/4″ bit. Mount the T-nut on the inside of the door board using a hammer to pound it into the newly drilled hole. If the hole is too tight you might need to using a 5/16″ bit instead. Test the fit by inserting one of your 1″x1/4″ bolts through the board from the outside and make sure it can be easily threaded through the nut on the other side. Do this for both mounting points and then return the board to the door for one last test fit to ensure you mounting points are accessible through the expanded metal.

Dismount the boards from the doors and slide each board and its respective piece of foam back into their own sleeves making sure that the fit is snug and that everything is properly lined up. Place the assembled door fills into each of the tube doors, fitting each one completely into place for final use. Moving over the expanded metal, use your fingers to feel along the outside of the canvas sleeve for the 1/4″ mounting holes you recently drilled in the board. When you locate each one, use the marker to make a dot on the canvas for that hole. Once each hole is marked, remove the fillers from the door, and empty the canvas sleeve. It is at this stage that you will use your grommet kit to punch holes and mount grommets to each mounting hole within the canvas. This will make it easier to locate the mounting holes once the door fills are in place. It will also prevent the canvas cloth from unraveling over time where the mounting holes are punched through.

The final door fills should be mounted through the expanded metal using the 1″ bolts, followed by a lock washer, 1 1/2″ flat washer, and a 1 1/2″ rubber washer. As an added benefit, although it’s not required, you can spray the canvas material down with your choice of water proofing solution. There are a number of these available at most hardware stores. This will help keep the material dry and free of moisture when driving in the rain. I should point out, however, that even the best water proofing solution will most likely not stand up to torrential downpour. Heavy rains and high speeds will leave almost any cloth material fully saturated. That’s why I suggest this last step as optional. The final result if you’ve gotten this far should look something like the pictures below.

Metal Tech Tube Door Canvas Fillers – Part Two:

But wait, we’re not done yet! The steps above only cover phase one of my Metal Tech tube door anti-rain solution. Unfortunately, testing of this setup proved only partially effective. Although a significant portion of the rain and wind was now blocked, I realized during the next test session that the majority of the liquid was being dispensed through the lower portion of the door opening, just below the bottom frame of the tube door. Effectively, the front tires were kicking up water spray and shooting it in directly at my feet. So I needed something additional to fend off the watery onslaught from below.

This second phase is slightly more difficult to explain (and follow) because I forgot to get as many pictures. I also forgot to measure the canvas material before hand so the dimensions I list here are going to be rough estimates but should get you pretty close. When in doubt, measure your material slightly larger and you can always cut away the extra after the fact. Please note that the pictures below do not show the 2″ velcro strips. I initially planned to use the sticky portion to mount the velcro to the canvas. But after my first trip off-road, I found the sticky portion wore out quickly and wasn’t enough to hold the canvas tubes in place. I’ve since updated this article to add a step for sewing this 2″ velcro strip to each of the tubes.

Please note that all velcro will need to be sewn onto the tube canvas prior to sewing the long sides of the canvas tubes together.

I decided to fill the lower gap left by the tube doors using two separate canvas tubes, filled with mildew-resistant densified batting. I picked up a piece of batting that was 22″x22″x4″ deep (the brand was Nu-Foam) at the local arts and crafts store. At four inches thick, you’ll be cutting strips from this square that are ~3″ wide. These pieces will be used to fill your canvas tubes once completed. The first canvas tube will run along the bottom of the tube door and will require approximately 34″x8″ of canvas material. The secondary tube will wrap around the back edge of the tube door to seal off the remaining portion of the gap. This piece of canvas should be approximately 15″x8″ in size. The ends of each canvas tube will need to be hemmed first to prevent unraveling. This doesn’t require much material (1/4″ at most).

Once the ends are hemmed, they will need to have velcro added similar to the front edge of the door filler canvas. Again, make sure you are using opposing pieces of velcro and that one piece is sewn to the inside of the canvas while the opposing piece is sewn to the outside. This will allow the flaps to overlap one another and in the case of the canvas tubes, it allows the smaller tube to be attached to the end of the larger tube. In addition to the ends of the tube, a strip of 2″ wide velcro needs to be sewn to one of the wide sides of the tube, running the complete length of the tube minus a few inches at either end. A similar piece of 2″ wide velcro strip will need to be sewn to the same respective side of the smaller tubes, minus an inch or so at either end. These wide strips of velcro will serve as the attachment mechanisms for the canvas tubes as there will be an opposing piece of velco stuck to the bottom frame of the tube doors themselves.

With all of the velcro stripping sewn into place on the canvas material, you can now use the sewing pins again to form fit the the tubes with the internal foam pieces. The larger of the canvas tubes will require two separate pieces of the densified foam to fill it. When filling the final canvas tube, you will need to cut two pieces of foam and slide them into place butted up against one another. The smaller canvas tube should only require a single piece. When cutting the foam to fit, make sure you leave enough room at the ends of the canvas tube to close the canvas and secure the velcro.

Once you’re completely satisfied with the fit of the foam, complete the canvas tubes by sewing the long side of the material together to form your final tube enclosure. Finish by re-fitting the tubes with the densified foam pieces. If you’re having trouble getting the foam inside the finalized tube, try compressing the tube end to end and pulling the foam through once it’s started on one end. This will help to simplify the process as the foam is pretty stiff and can be difficult to push into place. For final assembly, gather the tubes together, pairing one large tube with one small tube. With the 2″ velcro strip facing upwards on each tube, place the tubes in line with one another, end to end. Attach the two tubes together in the middle using the velcro on each end to secure one piece to another. Close the opposite ends of each tube by folding the flaps and securing the velcro.

The only step left is to add an opposing piece of 2″ velcro strip to the bottom from of your tube doors. Before you do this, test fit your new canvas tube system by opening the tube doors and setting the new canvas tubes into place. Slowly close the tube door and watch where the canvas tubes end up sitting in a closed position. Ideally, you want the tubes to fit nice and tight between the tube door’s bottom frame and the FJ’s door sill. Place the tubes between the tube door and door sill in such a way that when the tube door is in the closed position, no light can be seen below the tube door’s bottom frame. If you do see light, adjust the position of your canvas tubes until no light is visible. Once you get used to placing the tubes, hold them in position under the tube door while opening the door. Note where the canvas meets the bottom rail of the tube door. This is where you will want to apply your 2″ sticky velcro strip. Once this strip has been applied, your canvas tubes can be easily attached to the bottom of the door which will make it much easier to open and close your tube doors and will help you avoid losing your newly-created and very fashionable canvas water blockers.

To date, the combination of the door filler and the lower canvas tubes, has eliminated about 90 percent of the water ingestion problem. I’ve had the opportunity to test this setup under normal rain conditions and it works quite well. However, I’ve also had the opportunity to test it under flooding downpour and it is only effective for a short while. There’s simply no replacement for a stock door when the weather decides to dump in bucketloads. As has been stated so succinctly by other tube door owners, when it rains and you’re running tube doors, you get wet. But at least with this solution, you can generally avoid getting drenched in all but the absolute worst rain conditions. It’s worked quite well for me and is a huge step up compared to the standard tube doors which have a zero tolerance policy when it comes to rain. As always, if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave some feedback and I’ll do my best to respond.

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Gaining the Higher Ground with Metal Tech Tube Doors

There are a few down sides to airing down, however, that should be kept in mind before using this approach to gain traction. Tires that run air pressure below that of the manufacturer’s safety specifications for daily street travel are more prone to sudden air loss, heat build-up, and slipping on the rim. In a worst case scenario, the tire can actually slip a bead, dislodging itself from the wheel rim entirely. This can be a disaster at higher speeds for obvious reasons, and is one of the main reasons why vehicle speeds should never exceed 20 miles per hour if you plan to air down below the recommended pressure. But even at low speeds, the same down sides still exist. Slipping a bead can make for a frustrating day if you’re stuck out in the field without the proper tools to remount and re-inflate. It was for all these reasons and more, that the beadlock was developed.

Depending on the application, there are several types of beadlock design. The most common application is a single beadlock design, comprised of a metal ring that mounts to the outer wheel rim using a series of bolts, pinching the tire bead between itself and the outer rim. The older, less expensive versions of this design made centering the tire difficult, were prone to air loss, and had to be re-torqued on a regular basis. The current versions offered are a bit more expensive but much more reliable than their older, less expensive counterparts. The only real issue with using the outer ring approach is that it only provides protection for the outer rim. The inner rim is still vulnerable to bead slippage. Anyone looking for a dual beadlock design to protect both beads should probably invest in an internal beadlocking system. There are two manufacturers that come to mind when discussing internal beadlocks: Staun and Hutchinson.

Staun’s internal beadlock is a bladder design that can be inserted into any tire and rim combination. As cons go, the Staun beadlock system requires drilling your rims and adding a secondary valve stem to inflate the beadlock itself. And although it’s not a frequently occurring event, the Staun bladders have also been known to tear or rupture on occasion. Hutchinson’s beadlock system uses a hard rubber ring, not unlike a chunk of conveyor belt, instead of an air bladder. This means no drilling or extra valves are required and there’s no chance of bladder failures. Hutchinson’s primary downfall, besides the price, is that it’s sold as a complete system comprised of a proprietary two piece rim and internal beadlock. So if you’re looking at using your existing rims or any other non-Hutchinson wheels, you’ll have to consider a different system.

Comparing cost of the two systems, Staun is the hands-down winner. But in the “you get what you pay for” category, Hutchinson’s rims are one of the few DOT approved beadlock rims available that are completely street legal. In addition, these rims are designed with extreme precision, to military-grade specifications. The term “heavy duty” can be taken quite literally in the case of Hutchinson’s rims as these wheels tip the scale at more than 50 pounds a piece. The end result is a great looking rim that, in Hutchinson’s own words, will “take you safely through the most rugged terrain with assured traction, reliability and confidence.”

Hutchinson Rock Monster – Disassembly:

For a combination of reasons, I selected the Hutchinson Rock Monster as my beadlocking system for the FJ Cruiser. I’ve been running this setup for a little over two years now and have not had a single issue to complain about. Although it does take a bit of time to assemble and disassemble these rims, the process is such that nearly anyone can mount and dismount their own tires. For those of you who prefer to do things yourself to ensure it’s done correctly, this is a great solution. The next two portions of the article will cover the details for mounting your tires on the Rock Monster wheels, as well as the complete disassembly of the Rock Monster wheels so you can easily reverse the process when you need to swap your tires out. Keep in mind that (as of 2009) Hutchinson offers two separate internal beadlocks. The width of each beadlock model varies, so which one you order will depend on the tire you plan to mount.

Due to some recent balance issues and general reduction in traction, I decided it was time to replace my Interco TrXus Mud Terrain tires, which of course required disassembling the Rock Monster wheels. I realize it’s somewhat out of order but the videos below begin with the disassembling steps first, explaining the tools required, etc. If you’re just purchasing these wheels and are looking for steps on how to assemble the Rock Monsters, you can probably skip ahead to those steps below. The only real difference is that with existing rims, you will need to clean up the rims before re-assembling, as the tire rubber tends to build up a residue around the inner wheel rim.

This first video covers the basic tools, to include the most important item, a set of Tyre Pliers for breaking the tire beads, along with a larger ball peen hammer, torque wrench, 19mm deep socket and a bucket of soapy water and brush for application. I’d like to apologize up front for the wind noise and low volume in the videos. It didn’t seem that windy outside but the camera’s mic is apparently a lot more sensitive than my ears. Also, I use the term valve stem throughout the videos generically. To be completely technical, the portion that gets removed during the air down process (prior to disassembly) is the valve stem core. The stem remains intact. Lastly, once the valve stem core has been completely removed and there’s no pressure in the tire, there’s no particular need to leave the starter lug nuts in place while removing the rest of the lug nuts. With no air in the tire, all lug nuts can be safely removed in any order you wish. So without further ado, let’s dive into the Rock Monster disassembly process.

Hutchinson Rock Monster Disassembly - Part 1

Hutchinson Rock Monster Disassembly - Part 2

Hutchinson Rock Monster Disassembly - Part 3

Hutchinson Rock Monster Disassembly - Part 4

Hutchinson Rock Monster Disassembly - Part 5

Hutchinson Rock Monster Disassembly - Part 6

Hutchinson Rock Monster – (Re)assembly:

As I mentioned previously, re-assembling the Rock Monster wheels is something that virtually anyone can do. It does require some patience however, in order to ensure that everything goes back together as expected. The videos below outline all of the basic requirements for re-assembly to include cleaning your wheels, o-ring replacement, lug nut torque and wheel pressure specs and re-inflation. For safety reasons and to ensure your (re)mounting process goes as smoothly as possible, I recommend viewing all of the videos prior to assembling your Rock Monster wheels and tires. From my own experience, having to repeat this process over because of an unexpected air leak can be quite frustrating. Hopefully, the videos will help save you time in the long run.

Also, one important note before diving in, I’d like to reverse my recommendation to use Vaseline on your o-rings during this process. I recommended doing so in the video based on Hutchinson’s recommendations and a few of their vendors. I applied a Vaseline product to my o-ring before assembling only to find massive air leaks at the end of the assembly. When I disassembled, the o-ring had literally been eaten away by the product. I’m not sure if all products will react this way but just to be on the safe side I’m now recommending that you keep your o-rings completely dry and free of debris during the assembly process.

To sum up a few of the more important assembly details:

• If re-assembling your wheels after long-term use, make sure your inner rims and other mating surfaces are free of rubber residue and other debris. Use a light scrub pad for cleaning to avoid scoring or marring the surfaces.
• During re-assembly, ensure that your o-ring remains in its channel. If it snaps out there’s a good chance you’ll ruin it while torquing down the nuts.
• When torquing your lug nuts, work in a star pattern, torquing each nut to 60 foot pounds. After all nuts are at 60 foot pounds, repeat this process, torquing each nut to 80 foot pounds.
• Do not pressurize your tires over 60 psi. Rock Monster specs indicate a max psi of 60 pounds.
• The use of a tire inflation cage is highly recommended to ensure safe re-inflation of any split rim wheel. Make sure you stand to the side, 90 degrees from the wheel face to avoid potential projectiles. For the same reason, use a clip-on style air hose to avoid having your hands or body anywhere near the rims during inflation.

If anyone has any questions or comments about these wheels or the assembly / disassembly process, please fee free to leave me a comment below. I’d be more than happy to provide any information I can. If you’re looking for more details on this wheel or want to find out where you can purchase a set, check out my initial review of the wheel here. That being said, let’s begin the (re)assembly steps involved with Hutchinson’s Rock Monster dual beadlock system below.

Hutchinson Rock Monster Assembly - Part 1

Hutchinson Rock Monster Assembly - Part 2

Hutchinson Rock Monster Assembly - Part 3

Hutchinson Rock Monster Assembly - Part 4

Hutchinson Rock Monster Assembly - Part 5

Hutchinson Rock Monster Assembly - Part 6

Don’t Let Your Ego Drive:

First and foremost, be patient with yourself and be aware of your limitations as a driver. If you are truly not comfortable traversing an obstacle then don’t let yourself be goaded or coerced into doing so. That’s usually a recipe for disaster. On the flip side, however, there will be times when someone with more off-roading experience can provide enough assistance to help you through an obstacle. In fact, a good trail guide can usually determine if your vehicle is capable of making it through an area and will normally have the necessary experience to spot you through successfully. At that point, the only real limitation is in your own confidence level as a driver.

Go Easy on the Throttle:

While there are some obstacles that require constant or excessive fuel flow, a good portion of obstacles can be overcome using the slow and steady approach. Finessing your way through an obstacle has several advantages to include keeping the vehicle under control and greatly reducing the chances of breaking something. Excessive wheel spin + sudden traction = potential breakage. Using a calculated approach will typically yield a lot better results, and as an added bonus, you’ll find that your skills behind the wheel will actually improve as well. As a driver you’ll be more conscious of your surroundings and picking a good line will slowly become second nature.

Know Your Vehicle:

If your vehicle is fully armored for World War III and your experience in the off-road arena falls into a similar category, then you’re probably okay to hit the more difficult trails. But if you’re running in a near stock configuration, or lack the necessary experience, I would heartily suggest sticking with the easier obstacles. Just like a driver, the more prepared your vehicle is, the better it will perform in the field. Familiarizing yourself with your vehicle can take some time but the more time you spend in the field testing it, the better off you’ll be.

Start by getting to know how the vehicle performs in a stock configuration. Each time you add to or modify the vehicle, take it out and test it again. The more drastic the alteration, the more the driving characteristics will change. Adding those kick-out rock sliders might mean you can’t pass through the same obstacles you used to. Adding front and rear lockers makes you more capable but also requires a bit more caution with an independent front suspension. That new belly-pan skid plate you just added provides great protection but it also reduces your break-over clearance. In the long run, the more you know about how your vehicle performs in different circumstances, the more relaxed you’ll be on the trail.

Be Prepared:

It’s more than just a motto for the Boy Scouts. Being well prepared for the most common scenarios will save you a lot of heartache in the long run. Being prepared when off-roading can cover a gamut of areas, but the most common practice is to ensure you have the right equipment. This covers everything from belly armor and rock rails, to on-board safety and recovery equipment. The out-board equipment you carry will help to boost your vehicle’s capabilities off the pavement, while the on-board equipment will ensure you make it home safely.

Being prepared also means ensuring you are familiar with the equipment you carry. Tools like the hi-lift are a priceless commodity in the field but in the wrong hands a hi-lift can be quite dangerous. Carrying a first aid kit is always a good practice but like the hi-lift, if you don’t know what you’re doing, you can do more harm than good. Practice jacking your vehicle under controlled conditions at your own home to get familiar with how it works. Sign up for a local first aid class in your area to learn more about emergency response. Lastly, make sure you test and maintain your equipment on a regular basis. There’s nothing worse than discovering your equipment is broken when you need it most. Although it may seem like a hassle, those that practice good preparation techniques will ultimately have fewer worries on the trail.

Don’t Push Your Luck:

If there’s only thing I’ve learned over the years, it’s that you should never test fate. Smart rule of thumb – If it’s nearing the end of the day, avoid trying anything too crazy. Unexpected trail repairs when folks are ready to head home, can turn a day of fun into a long evening of frustration. Late-day repairs mean that light is usually fading and folks are normally tired and not thinking as clearly as they are during the morning hours. If in doubt, come back the next day when you and your fellow trail mates are feeling renewed from a good night’s rest. I normally apply this same line of thought to the last day of wheeling during an event too. As a rule, I will normally spend the first day or two wheeling hard and then back off and relax, hitting the easier trails during the last day.

Wheel with Friends:

This one should be fairly common sense but I still hear about a lot of folks heading out to a trail by themselves. It’s just like swimming – always go with a buddy. Knowing that there’s someone else there to assist you can alleviate a lot of stress. From a safety standpoint, if someone gets hurt there’s another person around to treat them or go for help if required. From a getting stuck standpoint, it means a second pair of hands and a second trail-capable rig to retrieve you if you get mired down. A second driver can provide the primary rig with a trustworthy spotter through the more difficult obstacles and ultimately translates to twice the tools and supplies (assuming both vehicles are well stocked). There’s a good reason why most off-roading parks don’t allow single rigs to venture alone on their trails. It’s just asking for problems. Wheeling with two or more rigs means less stress and more fun.

Trailer Your Rig:

This last one is by far the most expensive cure for stress relief but it’s also one of the most effective. There’s no doubt about it, trailering your rig to an event can make the experience a whole lot less nerve-wracking. While it costs a bit more in fuel (not to mention the expense of the tow rig and trailer), it allows you to push your vehicle a bit harder than normal because it’s no longer needed as the primary mode of transport to and from your destination. In most cases, the main reason that most people don’t trailer their rigs is because many folks cannot justify owning a tow rig and a car hauler. But if you have access to these items or the means to purchase them, I highly recommend this method.

Conclusion:

These are just a few of the things that I’ve learned over the years. In my experience, less stress equals a better outcome and I’ve discovered that the more relaxed I am on the trail, the clearer my head for making informed decisions. I tend to be very methodical when approaching an obstacle and I really do prefer to finesse my way through things. But when things get a bit hairy and don’t go as planned, keeping your head is key. It has definitely taken some practice and a whole lot of extra patience, but in the end I’d like to think I’m improving as a driver. And ultimately, my trips off-road are now a lot less stressful than they used to be.

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Strips and Straps: Safety Gear for the Overland Traveler

For our regular readers, this exciting new feature goes into effect immediately for the latest articles. However older content may take a bit longer to convert, so please be patient with us as we work through the remaining content. If you’re visiting the Expeditionr web site directly and would like to try this feature out, look for the podcast player  just below the title of the article you wish to hear. Click the triangular playback button and in just a few seconds the player should begin streaming audio content for that article. It’s just that easy! So now that you’ve heard from us, we’d love to hear back from you. Be sure and stop by soon and check out our brand new podcasting feature and let us know what you think.

Update:

Due to some unexpected latency between this site and the odiogo hosting servers, we have relocated the text-to-speech audio files to our local server. This has resulted in far better performance when accessing site content. In addition, we have added support for MP3 text-to-speech links in the RSS 2.0 feed so for our RSS subscribers, you should now have easy access to the audio as well.

Dual Horn Upgrade – Cost: $45

Anyone who has owned an FJ for more than a week will no doubt agree that the stock horn configuration lacks punch. Part of the problem is that most vehicle horn systems nowadays utilize two separate horns to generate an audible warning to those around us. But for some inexplicable reason, Toyota opted to install only one of these horns, leaving owners a bit mute. There are lots of different options available for horn upgrades but I wanted to keep things simple so I purchased a set of low pitch PIAA horns from Amazon. Traditionally, the lower pitch horns are used by domestic manufacturers and the higher frequency horns are found in foreign autos. But when I sampled both horns through YouTube, I preferred the lower pitch.

Installation for the PIAA horns was not terribly difficult. Both horns come with a mounting bracket and there’s a conveniently located bolt behind the passenger side of the front grille. All I needed to add was a spacer to keep the secondary horn from hitting the radiators. The current draw for the PIAAs was nominal so I was able to tap into the existing horn’s hot lead in order to provide the secondary horn with power. The main difference between the PIAA horns and the stock horn is that the PIAAs have a secondary tab for grounding. But this was easily fixed by running a second jumper wire from the ground tab to the horn’s mounting bolt.

Custom Shift Knobs – Cost: $50-$100

Shift knobs are another area where customization can be achieved for nominal expense. There were quite a few options available for FJ Cruiser shift knobs but most of them seemed either clunky or the style wasn’t in keeping with the FJ’s look and feel. Then one day I came across a “for sale” post in the FJ Cruiser forums that displayed a set of custom aluminum shift knobs that were quite different from the typical offering. The main structure was all aluminum and the metal had been powder coated black with a mild texture to the surface. The circumference of the knobs was trimmed with several rubber rings that assisted the driver with a better grip and gave the knobs a bit more style. To top it off, custom FJ logo inserts had been added to the top portion of each knob.

Installation of the knobs was as easy as unscrewing the stock knobs and replacing them with the new set. The only issue I ran into was that the internal spacing on the transmission knob was a bit too big at the bottom so there was some wiggling while shifting. This was easily fixed with a few wraps of tape around the shaft, prior to installing the knob. The second issue is that being made of metal, these knobs are quite cold in the winter time. On the other hand, they also tend to stay pretty cool during the summer time, so I guess it’s a good trade off. If you’re looking to customize your FJ Cruiser with aftermarket shift knobs, there are a few vendors out there that produce some quality products. Some of the more popular suppliers are Iron Mountain Performance, Icon Vehicle Dynamics, and Ellis Precision. Beyond that, I suggest using Google to find the exact style you’re looking for.

Bumpers and Mud Flaps – Cost: Free

This mod is as cheap is it gets – it’s completely free with the exception of the time it takes to make the changes. After repeatedly striking my bumper wings (the silver portions that stick out on each side) into obstacles and and crushing my mud flaps on rock ledges, I decided it would be less harmful to just remove the offending items. So I did. It’s a pretty simple mod to do and gains some additional clearance around and under the FJ. The bumper wings are held in place by a series of plastic snap locks on the interior of the bumper. To gain access to these you must first remove the bumper which is done by removing a selection of bolts and screws. Most of the bumper’s attachment hardware can be found with a visible inspection and some common sense but there are a few hidden attachment points that sit just under the front bezel area so the bezel will need to be removed as well. Removing the mud flaps requires the same common sense approach. Just look for mounting screws under the vehicle where the mud flaps attach.

Exhaust Chop – Cost: $75-$100

Modifying the stock exhaust configuration is probably not necessary for the FJs that only see the occasional fire road. But for those of you who wheel your rigs a bit harder, this is great way to gain some added clearance and save those custom exhaust tips too. The idea is to move the output of the exhaust upward, closer to the underside of the vehicle. Like the bumper and mud flap mods, this alteration will help prevent the exhaust pipe from being inadvertently crushed while crawling over obstacles. If you’re handy with a reciprocating saw and a welder, this is a 30 minute job. If you lack the tools or the skills, almost any muffler shop can do this for under $100, including parts and labor. Make sure that the placement isn’t too close to your decking as it will heat up the interior flooring and potentially damage your flooring or mats. And for anyone considering an aftermarket bumper, you might want to purchase and install the bumper first to ensure your modified exhaust pipe will be short enough to clear. I did my initial chop before installing the Expedition One rear bumper and due to unexpected clearance issues with the new bumper, I had to shorten the pipe even further.

7-Pin Trailer Plug – Cost: $15-$20

For those FJ Cruiser owners that haul trailers on a regular basis, the standard 4-pin wiring harness that Toyota provides can be a bit of a pain. In my case, I had two main problems – corrosion and location. The salted roads in the winter time cause the pins of the harness to corrode, making it very difficult to get the trailer wiring attached, let alone get a good solid electrical connection. Secondly, the location of the harness made it extremely vulnerable to rocks and other obstacles on the trail. So after dealing with these issues for several years, I finally opted to have the entire 4-pin portion replaced with a 7-pin. The 7-pin connectors, like this one on Amazon, make hooking up your trailer wiring much simpler and they come with a spring-loaded cap to prevent salt and debris from building up within. With the old connector gone, I decided fix my second problem by relocating the new connector up inside the frame rails, mounting it flush with the bottom of the rear cross-member. This new location gives the harness and plug some much needed protection while still remaining very accessible when I need to hook up the trailer.

TRD Off-Road Decals – Cost: $15-$45

I’ll admit, I’m not the type of guy that peppers his vehicle with an endless supply of stickers. I’m not knocking those folks who do. After all, this article is all about inexpensive mods and customizing your vehicle to make it your own. But in the end, I’m not a big fan of clutter and I really prefer a cleaner look to my vehicles. So I’ll chalk it up to a coincidence when I happened to come across some Toyota Racing Division (TRD) decals and liked them enough to purchase a set. Since I’d never seen these stickers on an FJ before, I decided to keep things subtle and initially ordered the design you see below in a silver color with charcoal accents. Unfortunately, the color of the sticker was too close to that of the vehicle, making it almost impossible to see from certain angles. So I replaced the silver combo with a second set comprised of black letters with a red accent. The second set of decals were much bolder but I’m still very pleased with the result. You can also order your decals through 3rd party suppliers to save some money as the ones offered through Toyota tend to be a bit on the pricey side.

Installation of the decals is really more a matter of patience than anything. Placement is completely up to the installer but I opted for adding the accents to the FJ’s haunches. The main trick with this area is that the driver’s side contains the gas filler door. Since I didn’t want to split the sticker, I adjusted the placement to where it was just to the front of the fuel door. Although it was difficult to ensure that the stickers were completely level, I did my best by measuring up from the stock fender flares on each side. I marked the bottom horizontal line using painters tape. By lining up the decals with this bottom tape, I was then able to mark up the right and left edges with more tape. I completed the box by using one last piece of tape to mark the top of the decal. Per the installation instructions, I peeled the backing from the decal and used a light mix of soapy water in a spray bottle to wet the surface of the FJ and the back of the decal, and carefully placed the decal into the confines of my tape border. After spraying some additional soapy water on the outer surface of the sticker, I then used a small squeegee to work the bubbles out from underneath. Once I was happy with the position of the decal, I dried the surface and removed the painters tape.

Secondary MPAC Rack – Cost: $150-$200

I wasn’t the first to perform this mod but my theory is that just because someone beats you to the punch doesn’t mean it isn’t a good idea. You know what they say about imitation. In case you missed the previous article, you can get the full review of Springtail Solutions’ MPAC racks here. The design of the FJ’s rear door panel is such that you can actually fit two of Springtail’s full-sized aluminum racks – one on top and a second on the bottom portion. Since I am always on the lookout for additional cargo capacity, this seemed like a great way to achieve some extra mounting locations. So I ordered up a second rack and hardware from Springtail. By the way, if you’re looking to save a little money, ask Springtail if they have any demo or marred items in stock. I managed to save some money on the second rack because I opted to pick up one of the cosmetically “less than appealing” models. As it turned out, even though the scratches were marked with tape, they were so small that I would have never noticed. You can also save some expense if you order your rack as part of a combo. It’s more expensive overall, but if you’re planning on getting the side rack and MOLLE bags anyway, it’s a much better deal. By the way, the estimated price above is for the second rack only.

Installation of a secondary rack is pretty much the same procedure as the top rack. See your Springtail installation info for more details. The only thing I recall that was different was that I had to bend some of the washers to make them conform to the molding of the plastic. The fit was definitely tight with two racks though so if you plan to add a second rack, make sure you leave enough room when mounting your first. The other thing to be aware of is that items mounted to the bottom rack will tend to hang down below the door opening, preventing you from closing the door. I located all of my bulky bags on the top rack and only used the bottom rack for small pouches to alleviate this issue. Other than that, the dual rack setup has worked very well and gives me that much more space for my gear. Lastly, if you’re looking to purchase MOLLE bags from Springtail, I highly recommend their velcro rip-away design. Being able to quickly and easily install and remove your storage bags for restocking means time saved for other tasks.

Lower Shock Guards – Cost: $35

The lower mounting points for the rear shocks on the FJ happen to sit in a rather precarious zone, exposed directly to rocks and other immovable objects. Thankfully, aftermarket manufacturers have once again risen to the occasion and as a result, you can now pick up some pretty sturdy guards for your lower shock mounts. While visiting Man-A-Fre’s web site, I came across this set of guards that were relatively inexpensive and seemed to offer the necessary protection, so I ordered a set. I actually ran these for over a year and they did a great job while they remained intact. Unfortunately, the constant grinding on the rocks wore down the welds and all it took was one well placed snag and the outer face of the guard tore away from the round section. So I began looking for a better solution.

Having run Icon Vehicle Dynamics’ equipment in the past, I decided to see what they had to offer for lower shock guards. Comprised entirely of aluminum, the Icon lower shock guard design is not prone to rusting like the competing steel products. Plus, the Icon model sports an additional shielding component for the shock tubes themselves. All in all, they seemed to offer the same basic functionality so I plunked down some cash and had them in hand a few days later. My one concern with the Icon design was the upper shield. It lacked any type of reinforcement and I was concerned that a decent strike to the top portion of the guard would force the shield backwards, potentially damaging the shock tube in the process.

My prediction came true, unfortunately, as these new shock guards didn’t even last one round at Rausch Creek before succumbing to the rocks. I only managed to traverse a few trails before I experienced a loud clunking from the rear of the vehicle. As it turned out, the upper shield portion of my driver’s side shock guard had been bent backwards and was now lodged against the shaft of the shock, preventing the shock from fully collapsing. Needless to say, the Icon lower shock guards were immediately removed before they could do any more damage.

I have since returned to a new set of Man-A-Fre lower shock guards. While they are still prone to rusting and weld tearing, it took quite awhile for this to occur. And for the price, they still offer great protection for the shock mounts. The one thing I would change in Man-A-Fre’s design is to have an outer lip as well that would protect the head of the mounting bolt. It tends to take quite a bit of abuse through the rocks and a mushed bolt head makes removal a bit tricky. In the mean time, I’ll continue to keep my eyes out for other options and if anyone has any suggestions for a better solution, please feel free to leave a comment.

Aftermarket Seat Covers – Cost: Varies

In a nutshell, I like leather. I won’t go into too much detail on this one since I covered this already in my “stock vs aftermarket” article. Leather seats are not necessarily a cheap upgrade but in my opinion, they are a very worthwhile upgrade that adds both class and functionality to your vehicle. When presented with options, I selected Katzkin leather both for their reputation and their quality. My color choice was based on the darker charcoal color of the FJ’s interior and I am really happy with the way it turned out. I didn’t want anything too garish, but I had seen the FJ Cruiser logo in seats on another venue and really liked the way it looked. So when I ordered the Katzkins, I asked that this logo be added in a light silver thread. The end result turned out even better than I expected and if I had to do it all over again, this upgrade would be one of my first. Pricing for leather depends a lot on the manufacturer and whether you’re having it installed. A normal price range for a full set of FJ Cruiser leather seats installed is between $800 and $1200. A lot of the price depends on the installation shop’s labor charges.

If leather isn’t in your budget, there are a number of companies that offer less expensive seat surfacing solutions. With such a wide variety of customization options available, it’s easy to see why so many customers choose this route over leather. Whether you’re going for solid or two-tone, custom patching or embroidery, the nearly limitless options available means you can truly customize your interior and get the look you’ve always wanted. One of the more popular options for aftermarket seat surfacing comes from a company named Wet Okole. Manufactured from a material similar to wet suits, the Wet Okole seat covers are completely waterproof, making it easy to clean up after spills, splashes and other surface contaminants. On top of that, Wet Okole offers a wide selection of colors allowing customers to pick out the perfect color or color combination to meet their needs. If your FJ is in the market for aftermarket seat covers and neither of these options fits the bill, I suggest browsing through the FJ Cruiser forums or using Google to see what else is available.

Custom Gobi Stealth Roof Rack – Cost: $1,400

In an effort to open up the interior of the FJ, I had a sunroof installed within the first two months of ownership. Cosmetically, the stock roof rack was a great design that offered limited hauling functionality and complemented the sunroof nicely because cargo was designed to sit towards the rear of the vehicle. But for more serious trips, I needed a rack that was less about aesthetics and more about functionality. I needed a roof rack that would support more than 100 pounds and one that would allow me to pack smaller items without fear of them falling through the slats. My main problem in this scenario was the sunroof.

While reviewing my roof rack options, I discovered that a lot of the aftermarket solutions were either too small or too big. The small solutions were generally undersized baskets designed to take advantage of the stock rack or 3rd party 1/2 racks that only utilized the back end of the roof for storage. The full-sized racks were oftentimes lacking a full floor (slats only) and almost all of the larger racks suffered from the same problem – they all blocked visibility through the sunroof. After more than a year of driving with the stock roof rack, I finally came across a post in the FJ Cruiser forums that indicated Gobi was offering to customize their rack designs to accommodate those owners with a sunroof. Since the Gobi Stealth was already one of my favorite rack designs, it was an easy decision for me. All I had to do was send the dimensions of my sun roof to Gobi and they took it from there. The end result is the perfect combination for my needs. Not only do I have uninhibited access to my sun roof, I ended up with a rack that gives me a 300 pound weight rating and looks great too.

Vanity License Plates – Cost: Varies

To round out this compilation of min-mods, I decided to finish with one of the most commonly seen mods today – vanity license plates. For our United States residents, customizing your vehicle’s license plate is something that virtually anyone can do. Finding a custom plate id that isn’t already taken is usually the trickiest part. But once you find one that meets your requirements it’s usually only a small upgrade fee on top of the normal cost of your plates. I’ll admit, I never had the urge to purchase a vanity plate before I owned the FJ. But since this vehicle is here to stay for the long term, I decided it needed something a bit more personal since it’s now an official member of the family.

Summary:

While I’m sure there are probably other items that I’ve missed, I think that pretty much covers the remainder of my modifications for the time being. Due to a recent job change, the FJ mods are on a bit of a hiatus but I hope to return with more upgrades very soon. The beauty of modding is that you’re never really done. Every time I think I’m getting close, I run across a new selection of irresistable toys, which makes it almost impossible to ever really “complete” this project. Plus, my tastes and needs change over time too, so as I grow, so does the FJ. If you have any questions about the above modifications or would like to share some of your own, please feel free to post a comment or two. After all, I’m always on the lookout for new and interesting ideas!

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For the die-hard rock-crawling fanatics out there, I should point out that these skids, like most of Ricochet’s products for the FJ, are comprised entirely of aluminum. Some of the most popular skid plate vendors out there will tell you that when it comes to underbelly protection, nothing beats steel. And from my own experience, I’d have to agree. Steel is stronger, more pliable, and will slide off rocks and other hard surfaces much easier than an aluminum skid. From a material standpoint, aluminum tends to be more brittle than steel and is more prone to sticking on rocks than sliding. The malleability of steel makes it a popular choice for wheels, skids and other parts used in the off-roading arena, because these parts can be bent back into shape when struck and warped by obstacles.

But aluminum isn’t exactly new to the game either. Aluminum has a major advantage that steel does not – weight savings. Depending on the application required, aluminum can oftentimes be used in place of steel with little or no detriment. Weight reduction can be a major advantage in a lot of instances and aluminum is a great contender for these scenarios. Aluminum also has a leg up on steel in that it will not rust or corrode as easily. This increased longevity translates to reduced maintenance and cost savings because parts will last longer. So while steel may be preferred for certain scenarios, aluminum most definitely has its place as well. The Ricochet lower control arm skids are a perfect example of maximizing the positive characteristics of aluminum.

The FJ Cruiser’s front lower control arms are built to withstand a good deal of punishment but anything, if struck hard enough, is prone to damage. In addition to the lower A-arm, the boots that enclose the constant velocity (CV) joints on the FJ’s front end sit just slightly higher, making them a nice target for sharp sticks and other trail debris. In an effort to combat this problem, the creative minds at Ricochet went to work developing a solution. The end result was a well designed aluminum skid plate that mounts directly to the bottom of the FJ’s front lower control arm. This light-weight armor not only provides increased strength to the lower control arm but also offers much needed protection to the CV boots that ride silently just a few inches above.

To give you a better idea of what’s included in the kit, I’ve included some photos of the package contents below. The kit is pretty basic, consisting of 2 lower control arm skids and a plastic bag with all the required installation hardware. I’ve also included some pictures of the skids shortly after installation. As you can tell from the photos, the skids fit quite snugly to the bottom of the A-arm, so very little clearance is lost. And with the added vertical wing in the front, your CV boots can now breathe a sigh of relief as they are much less vulnerable to objects approaching from below. The last section of photos shows these skids after more than a year of abuse. There’s no doubt that these skids do their job and they do it well.

Normally, I’d go into great detail on everything that’s required for installation but when it comes to the Ricochet LCA skids, installation is about as simple as it gets. The 3-bolt design makes it a snap to easily install both skids in under 30 minutes. The only tip I’d offer for install is to use ramps or a lift if you have access to one. The added clearance under the front end just makes it easier to line up the bolts and nuts and tighten everything down. The skids come in a standard aluminum finish by default, but Ricochet also offers anodizing in different colors for an additional charge. I’ve also seen owners powder-coat these skids but I believe that is done through a 3rd party as Ricochet does not currently offer this service on their web site.

If you’re looking for great protection for your FJ Cruiser’s front end suspension components, I highly recommend the Ricochet LCA aluminum skid plates. I’ve beaten on these things unmercifully and even brought the entire vehicle to a sudden halt at times, when the front lower control arms unexpectedly slammed into a rock. These skids have proven themselves again and again to be the perfect solution. If you’d like to pick up a set of Ricochet LCA skids, you can order directly off their web site, or for additional information, you can also contact Ricochet through the FJ Cruiser forums on their vendor page. In addition to the LCA skids, Ricochet also offers front-to-back protection for your FJ’s underbelly. So if you are looking for added peace of mind but don’t want the extra weight of steel, be sure and check out their complete inventory online. Lastly, don’t forget to check out the related articles section for more skid plate related FJ mods!

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I spent more than a reasonable amount of time researching and experimenting in order to determine the best location for aftermarket outlets. It sounds a little strange I suppose, but any mod that requires drilling or otherwise modifying the FJ’s stock configuration, normally leaves me to pause a bit. For those keeping up with my previous articles, you’ll note that I prefer to keep modifications as close to stock, in appearance, as possible. It’s about blending in and avoiding the “sore thumb” syndrome. Luckily, there were quite a few folks who paved the road before me, so I was able to view photos of outlets installed in a variety of different locations within the FJ before I began my own 12v installation. When all was said and done, I came up with a perfect outlet location for my needs – the rear vertical face of the center console.

One of my main goals with this installation was to provide 12v access for passengers in the back seat. But I also wanted these outlets to be reachable by the front passengers. With the limited amount of storage space available, I decided to place the outlets on the outer rear face of the center console. This keeps the plugs from interfering with items stored within the console itself, and for the most part this location seemed like it would work very well for charging cellphones and powering DVD players for the kids in the back. The only drawback I saw with this location was the potential for passengers with longer legs to inadvertently step on a cord or plug and possibly damage the outlets. But since my rear passengers are generally of a smaller denomination (my kids) and they sit on opposite sides of the FJ, I didn’t foresee this as being a big problem.

Installation:

Even though it takes a little more time up front, removing the center console from the FJ will save you a lot of time in the long run. This makes drilling holes for your outlets much easier and allows you to run the wiring more easily as well. Removing the center console is actually pretty simple. You’ll need a 10mm socket wrench or driver to remove the nuts holding the console in place. Note: it’s much easier to remove the bottom of the console if the front seats are in the reclining position with the armrests pointed up and out of the way. The center console of the FJ is actually two separate pieces so we need to begin by removing the top-most piece. This will give us access to the lower piece and two of the four bolts required for removal.

Start by unscrewing the knobs on the transmission and transfer case shift levers. Lift the emergency brake into the engaged position and carefully remove the plastic trim piece directly below the shift lever itself. It just snaps into place but I found that a small flat blade screw driver helps to pop it out. Grip the console just forward of the console’s rear storage compartment (cup holder area works well) and pull upward to remove. Take care when passing this piece over the now-knobless shift levers to avoid scratching the plastic. With the top piece of the console out of the way, you now have access to two of the four bolts that hold down the bottom portion.

The rear storage compartment of the console is lined with a molded rubber separator. Lift this separator out to reveal two additional 10mm bolts. Use your wrench to remove these two bolts, along with two additional bolts further forward, located on each side of the transmission shift lever. Once these four bolts are out, you can remove the remainder of the console by pulling upwards and backwards. It’s a tight fit so it might require a little twisting. This is the main reason I suggest lowering your front seats all the way back since it makes this process much easier. With the center console successfully removed, it’s time to to map out placement for the new 12v outlets.

When it came to purchasing the outlets themselves, I ended up ordering a triple receptacle outlet from West Marine. The outer ring provided both a template for drilling and additional structural support when mounting the individual outlets. When it comes to actually making the holes for your receptacles, I suggest using a hole saw that’s just slightly larger than the receptacles themselves. This will ensure a tight fit once the outlets are in place. It’s also important to note that measurements should be taken ahead of time to ensure that your mounting location has enough clearance underneath and behind to allow for both receptacles and wiring. This includes accounting for metal components and other potential obstacles under the console when it’s restored to its original location between the seats.

If you don’t already have some lying around the house, pick up a roll of painter’s tape. You can use the tape to cover the area of your console where you will be drilling. This will help keep the edges of the hole from becoming ragged when you punch through and helps prevent scratching from the drill in general. Be sure and apply the tape to both sides prior to drilling. Then use the plastic mounting plate that comes with the outlets to trace the hole positions. The holes will generally need to be slightly bigger than the traced lines, but this will allow you to center punch each circle so that the outer diameters are even all the way around. Also, be careful when you start drilling because the plastic surface is somewhat slippery. I managed to make a nice groove in the outer face of the console when the center bit of the hole saw slipped sideways.

Once the holes are drilled, the outlets themselves are not difficult to install. I ended up placing the triple mounting plate behind the console wall rather than mount it on the outside. I also removed the rubberized caps from the outlets before installation. Both of these changes helped to give the install a cleaner look – closer to stock. Removing the caps does make the outlets slightly more vulnerable to water and debris though so use caution if you follow my lead. With the outlets now in place, it was time to address the wiring situation. In my case, I had already installed an auxiliary fuse panel in the passenger-side kick panel, so that was my ultimate destination.

For my wire choice, I opted to use 14AWG to support a larger number of accessories. I already had a spool of 14AWG that I had purchased for previous projects but you can pick up wire like this from almost any hardware store or even order it online. I decided to route my hot leads under the center console towards the vehicle’s dash and then turn right, heading up and over the glove compartment and completed their route at my auxiliary fuse panel. As I recall, the rough measurement for this distance was around 9 feet of wire, but your length may vary depending on where you plan to hook into a 12v power source. As an aside, if you plan to add multiple 12v outlets or other accessories, I highly recommend adding an auxiliary fuse panel as it will save you a lot of hassle in the long run. It not only centralizes all of your aftermarket accessory hook-ups, but it eliminates the need to splice into existing (stock) wiring which can lead to a whole host of problems down the road.

To aid in the wire routing process, I ended up removing the passenger side glove box and the lower passenger kick panel where my fuse panel is mounted. Depending on where you route your wires, you may or may not need to remove the vertical console where all the stock switches are located. I didn’t remove it, but I did loosen it a bit since it made it easier to feed the wire loom and wires through and behind the dash area. The vertical console is held in place using two 10mm bolts in the front lower section, a single plastic pop pin on each side of the console, and a series of plastic snap-in connectors. Once the two bolts and two pins are removed, this center console section can be pulled away from the dash area using a rearward motion to dislodge the snap-in connectors. Be careful not to pull too hard because the wiring for all the switches is still attached. You’ll need to disconnect these wires first if you want to remove this piece completely.

Since I planned on adding three outlets, I required three separate hot leads. I pre-measured the wire and snipped each one to the proper length. I would also need three separate ground wires. I decided to use one of the forward bolts that holds down the console as my ground since it mounted directly into the sheet metal of the transmission tunnel. I measured the distance for these wires as well, and cut three of them to the necessary length. I then bundled the three hot leads together using 3/8″ wire loom cut to the same length (minus a small portion at each end to allow the wires to separate for hook up). I did the same procedure for the grounding wires. The wire loom not only helps to keep the wires together, it also helps prevent unwanted abrasion due to vibrations around metal parts.

Although it’s not always the case, I try to make a habit of soldering and heat shrinking any connectors on the ends of my wires. This helps prevent unwanted grounding, loose connections, and just looks better from a cosmetic standpoint. I used female spade connectors for the ends of the wire that mount to the back of the 12v outlets, and ring connectors for the end that hooks to the fuse panel. With the console flipped upside down, I attached the two bundles of wires (hot and ground) to their respective tabs. The spade connectors make for a tight fit but the snugness helps prevent the wires from coming loose on their own once the console is restored to its former home. I then loosely routed the two bundles of wires to the other end of the console and carried the entire assembly back to the FJ for a test fit.

Because the grounding wires were all going to the same bolt I decided to combine all three wires at the end and used a larger ring connector to accommodate the 10mm bolt. I ended up having to bend the ring connector slightly to allow the plastic tab of the console to sit properly once the ground wires were in place. While restoring the center console I took measures to ensure that all wires were routed around any locations or objects that could result in pinching. Once the hot leads reached their destination, hooking them up to the fuse panel was a quick and painless process.

The 14AWG wire I used is rated for up to 17 amps so I utilized a 15 amp fuse in the panel. Most hand held accessories run between 1.5 and 5 amps so you can probably use a smaller fuse if you prefer. Just remember to keep your wire gauge and fuses in sync to avoid catastrophic meltdowns. If you’ve read through my auxiliary fuse panel installation article, you’ll note that half of my connections are always hot and the other half are switched. In this case, I attached the 12v outlets to the switched side of the panel to avoid draining my battery when the key is turned off.

So other than restoring the various panels and pieces to their original location, that’s pretty much it for the install. There’s not really that much to it once you’ve installed an auxiliary fuse panel. For me, the most difficult part of the entire installation was choosing a location for mounting the outlets. As you can see, having an auxiliary fuse panel in place makes little additions like this a relatively quick and easy process. I now have a total of four 12v keyed outlets in the FJ that are all easily accessible. This allows the kids to watch their movies without having to disconnect some other accessory and the rearward location of the plugs eliminates the potential tangled mess of cords that occurs when plugs are mounted in the front of the console or other areas in the dash. In the future I hope to add several more outlets in the rear cargo area. This will make it even easier to plug in accessories while camping or traveling in the outdoors.

Update:

Overall, since performing this installation back in July of 2009, I’ve been very happy with the result. As I stated above, multiple outlets means no more swapping accessories when one item runs out of charge. My chosen location for the outlets has proven very effective for all passengers to access and I’ve had no problems with anyone stepping on or otherwise damaging the connectors. So I’m quite pleased with the outcome.

As far as lessons learned… as nice as the West Marine receptacles are, their inner structure appears to be designed rather loosely. They’re good quality outlets but depending on the style of 12v accessory plug, the plug itself might not fit as tight as you might like. I’ve run into problems in the past were a plug is inserted, but it manages to wiggle its way backwards far enough that it loses the connection. So if I had to do this again, I’d try and find a receptacle that fits tighter around the plugs. The only other lesson I learned was to make sure your drill is secure before drilling your holes. As you can see from the pics above, I left a nice little scratch above the first hole because the drill kicked to the side when I started drilling.

In the end, the back of the center console worked perfectly for my needs. But there are literally dozens of other locations for adding outlets. I suggest poking around the FJ Cruiser forums if you’re looking for other ideas. There are quite a few 12v installation posts to browse through to get an idea of what might work best for your particular needs. Just remember to keep it separate from the stock electrical system whenever possible. As you can tell from above, this install isn’t terribly complicated, but if you’re not comfortable with this type of modification, I always recommend taking your vehicle to a professional installation shop. I’d like to thank Landcruiser Steve in the FJ forums for the detailed console removal pictures. Lastly, don’t forget to check out some of the related articles below and if you have any questions about this install or other articles on this site, please feel free to post up a comment.

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In the case of installation, it becomes rather a nuisance to have to stop at every step in order to detail progress after the fact. So much of the time, my photographs only tell part of the story. When I have the privilege of participating in off-road events, event capturing will oftentimes translate to standing in the bushes, hanging from tree limbs, or sinking knee-deep in the mud if necessary, in order to do the shots justice. It also means hanging back from the group while everyone else gets to play. For those of you who are willing to go this extra mile, I extend my whole-hearted thanks. Without folks like you, I’d be left with only memories of events past.

On that note, here are a few videos that were shot during the annual Coal Mine Cruiser Classic run. If memory serves me correctly, this first video is from 2009 but I cannot provide the location other than to say it was at Rausch Creek Off-Road Park, in Tremont, Pennsylvania. This particular hill wasn’t terribly steep, but the terrain was loose, consisting primarily of sandy, loamy soil. Combined with random rocks and tree roots and it became a bit of challenge in the traction department. But thanks to a good spotter, and the grippy Nitto Terra Grapplers, I was able to traverse the hill with very little problems.

Rausch Creek Off-Road Park: 2009 Coal Mine Cruiser Classic Run

The next video was taken a year later, during the 2010 Coal Mine Cruiser Classic at Rausch Creek ORP. It’s a short clip, but one that exhibits the differences of technique on the trail. More specifically, it provides visual proof that picking the proper line is not just about “winging it” and hoping for the best. In the Jeep’s defense, the driver was not familiar with this trail and the Jeep is a standard transmission, which tends to complicate things when trying to inch your way through or over an obstacle. In my case, it was not only fun with friends, but an excuse to test out the recently installed Interco TrXus Mud Terrain tires. It had rained for several days so the trails were muddy and slippery, but the TrXus tires performed flawlessly regardless of the less-than-optimal trail conditions.

Rausch Creek Off-Road Park: Leading a group of friends down J-Trail

A lot changed between the first video and the second video in terms of modifications to the FJ. I’ve also noticed that by making these type of events a regular habit, my off-roading skills have seen a boost in performance as well. I don’t mean to imply that I’m some sort of expert off-roader – not by a long shot. But the experience I’ve gained from these types of events has given me a lot more confidence in the off-roading arena. Obstacles that used to make me hesitate no longer bother me at all. The further I push myself, the more confident I become and the better I get to know my vehicle’s capabilities and limitations. The more testing I do, the more I’m aware of when I can push the limits and when I should back off. It’s an interesting study of man and machine working cohesively towards an end goal.

For those of you who have yet to be bitten by the “mod bug”, these pictures might seem all too familiar. But for me, there are a pleasant reminder of where it all began. If the FJ had a story to tell, mine would have started here. I’d had the FJ less than a week when these photos were taken and it brings back fun memories when I browse through the photos. Quite frankly, I don’t remember another time when the FJ looked this clean. I’ve become quite used to the mud and dirt residue throughout. It’s part of history now and a big part of my daily life. From the day I picked it up at the dealer, my enthusiasm for the FJ Cruiser platform has only grown, and I have Toyota to thank for it. So here’s to Toyota for building not just a vehicle, but a legacy that will hopefully continue for years to follow!

When venturing off-pavement, visibility becomes a key factor in determining the path your vehicle will travel to reach its destination. Although I believe Toyota did an outstanding job designing the FJ Cruiser in general, the height of the stock doors is simply not conducive to good visibility on the trail. One option would be to remove the stock doors altogether but this option leaves the front passengers somewhat vulnerable to branches and other flying debris and is actually illegal in some states for safety reasons. So the logical solution to this problem is to replace the stock doors with an aftermarket alternative – one that improves the view from the driver’s seat but still offers some amount of safety and protection. On that note, I’d like to introduce you to Metal Tech’s tube door for the FJ Cruiser. To quote Metal Tech directly:

Metal-tech tube doors are a direct fit, bolt-on tube door for the FJ Cruiser featuring one year of development and testing. Stainless steel paddle latches make it easy to get in and out of the FJ Cruiser and secure the doors tight. Our paddle latches come with interior pull knobs to open the doors as well. Featuring Metal-tech’s 1.5” tube framing the doors and precision CNC laser cut mounting plates for a guaranteed first fit.  Easily supporting the weight of a 200lb adult sitting on the door, they are extremely strong yet under half the weight of the typical tube door.

After a year of running trails with the stock doors, I decided I wanted a better view of the terrain around the vehicle. Picking a good line can make a world of difference and it’s much easier to do so when you can see the ground ahead, and to the side of, your vehicle. So I contacted Mark Hawley at Metal Tech for more details. In my case, I indicated that I was definitely interested in the doors, but with a slightly modified design. I requested that the traditionally open area of the door be covered with expanded metal for additional protection. Though there were additional charges for materials and labor, Mark was kind enough to oblige my request and a few weeks later I was staring at a beautiful set of Metal Tech, hand-crafted tube doors.

Installation:

Installation of the Meta Tech tube doors is actually pretty straight forward. The biggest difficulty you’ll run into during installation is removing the stock doors from the FJ. The stock doors weigh in at approximately 75 pounds and are somewhat unwieldy to manage. So I recommend having a friend help you with this portion of the install. The other option that works well is to purchase a small hydraulic lift table like this one from Harbor Freight. They usually support up to ~500 pounds of weight and can be extremely handy during projects like these. Plus, the table collapses into a fairly compact package so it’s transportable if you want to remove the doors somewhere other than your own home or garage.

Removal of the stock doors is pretty simple too. Start by popping the front plastic sill cover loose that runs along the bottom of your door jam. This will allow you to remove the lower plastic kick panels next to the driver’s and passenger’s feet (under the dash). To remove the driver’s side kick panel, you must first pop the plastic foot rest loose (far left of the pedals). Underneath this foot rest is a small plastic knob that will unscrew. There is a similar knob on the passenger side as well.

Once these knobs are unscrewed, the plastic kick panel can be removed by pulling it straight backwards towards the rear of the vehicle. There are two main wire harnesses inside each kick panel that need to be disconnected prior to the stock door removal. These wires are tied to the door locks and window controls and will not be used once the stock doors are removed. The outer portion of the wire harness (within the door) is connected to the inner portion (kick panel) using a snap plug that can be unplugged quite easily by depressing the lock tab that holds the two pieces together and pulling them apart.

At this stage, make sure you have your stock door properly supported before proceeding. Once your wiring is completely disconnected, door removal is accomplished by removing four (4) bolts on the door side of the hinges and a single bolt that holds the retention bracket in place (prevents the door from swinging out too far). Make sure you save the bolts you removed from the stock door setup. You won’t need them to install the tube doors, but you will need them if you plan to reinstall the stock doors in the future. Be sure and leave the hinges attached to the vehicle since they are required for the tube doors as well.

With these five bolts removed, you should be able to simply slide the doors away from the vehicle and gently lower them to the floor. Again, the stock doors are heavy and cumbersome to deal with so take care and go slowly to avoid damaging the doors. Even with a friend’s help, I’d still recommend the use of a table jack as it makes the whole process a lot easier. The two bolts in the stock door jamb assembly are removed using a large star driver. The stock jamb is replaced with a single post Metal Tech jamb, designed to work with the tube door latching system.

The handle and latch mechanism on the Metal Tech tube doors are somewhat adjustable to allow for variances in door height once attached to the vehicle. The right-angle handle bracket attaches to the doors using two bolts, washers and lock nuts. The release arm attaches to the latch assembly using a similar combo. And lastly, the latch assembly itself attaches to the handle bracket using two bolts that fit through pre-threaded holes in the assembly bracket. I suggest tightening the nuts and bolts for the release handle but leave the other four bolts slightly loose to allow for adjustment after the door is attached to the hinges.

Metal Tech includes a good collection of large washers in their installation kit but I ended up requiring a few extra for spacers behind the hinges. In my case, I had to play with spacing a bit in order to get the doors to hang at the right angle and swing in such a way so the latch assembly aligned properly with the door jamb bolt. This process is not all that bad though. The tube doors are extremely light compared to the stock doors and it’s really just a matter of adding or removing washers between the hinges and the hinge brackets on the doors themselves. Once you achieve the proper spacing, the doors open and close as easy as can be, and the latching mechanisms provided keep the doors very secure when sitting in the closed position. Be sure and tighten all the bolts in your latching mechanism and handle once you get everything lined up the way you want.

That’s pretty much all there is to it. Once you’ve completed the install one time, removal of the tube doors is even easier, and restoring your stock doors is no more difficult than it was to remove them. Just reverse the above instructions and you’re all set. Again, make sure you set all your stock hardware aside for safe keeping and I highly recommend using a hydraulic table lift as it will save you a lot of potential heart (and back) ache.

I’d like to thank Mark Hawley and the Metal Tech team for going our of their way and adding the expanded metal to my set. I realize that one-off pieces are always a bit of a pain so I really appreciate their extra efforts. I’d also like to thank Jake (TrailBus1) in the FJ Cruiser forums for some of the detailed installation photos. All in all, if you’re looking for additional visibility on or off the road, you can’t go wrong with a set of Metal Tech tube doors.

Update:

Having had a few months to put the Metal Tech tube doors through their paces, I have a few updates to add to this post. I’d like to start by stating that the Metal Tech tube doors do a fantastic job of expanding the cabin space of the FJ. Visibility has never been better and trail navigation has improved ten-fold with the doors in place. With their solid latching system and added protection of expanded metal, I have no qualms whatsoever when traveling on or off road. My daughter, who normally accompanies me and resides in the back seat of the FJ, was especially appreciative of the extra air flow and open feel that these doors provide. Like many products though, tube doors do take some getting used to.

In my opinion, there are only two real drawbacks to these doors, both of which are relatively obvious. When the temperature drops, you will either need to bundle up or reinstall your stock doors. I was good to go until temps dropped below 40 degrees, at which point, the combination of air temp and wind at highway speeds is a bit more than I wanted to bear.

The other somewhat unexpected surprise came while driving in rainy conditions. Mind you, a little rain in the cabin is not going to worry me all that much. The problem occurs not from the rain that’s falling, but from the rain that already sits on the pavement. Road debris (dirt, rocks, water, etc) from the front tires is kicked up and launched directly into the cabin area, entering through the bottom, front corner of the tube doors. Without the stock doors in place, there is nothing to stop this from happening. Compounding this problem is the wind, which acts as a torrent, whipping the rain water around inside the cabin to the point where I had to pull over because I could no longer see out the front window.

Once I was stopped, closer inspection revealed that the rain water had been spread pretty much everywhere – inside the front window, the dash, seats, headliner – you name it and the water found it. My entire left side was drenched as a result of one five-minute trip down a rain-soaked highway. So if you’re running tube doors and plan to travel in the rain, prepare accordingly. The same goes for overnight parking. I’ve actually added shower curtains to my list of on-board equipment for just this occasion. Hanging them from my roof rack when I expect rain storms helps prevent a lot of the water from getting into the cabin. As far as the road water goes, my plan for the future is to modify these doors so that the lower panel area blocks rain and debris from entering the cabin area altogether. But that will have to wait for a future article.

Lastly, just for fun, here’s a quick video taken last year while I was running these doors up at Rausch Creek Off-Road park in Tremont, PA. Enjoy!

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Pads and Canvas: Rain-Proofing Metal Tech’s Tube Doors

Currently, event organizers behind the scenes are busily working to get registration forms online, arrange for sponsors, etc. I am told they hope to have the registration web site ready in a week or two. But like most events of this size, it takes a lot of hard work and coordination to make it all come together. So please be patient and in the mean time, hit up the FJ Cruiser or FJ Northeaster forums for more details. I’ll update this post with a registration link once the forms are up and ready to go. I look forward to seeing those of you who regularly attend and hope to see a fresh batch of new faces as well. See you on the trails!

Update:

The registration form is now live and ready for sign-up! Once again, I’d like to remind everyone that even though this event is FJ-centric, registration is completely open to anyone who wants to join in the fun. There are no limits based on vehicle brand or manufacturer. If you’re looking for a great gathering of folks and enjoy wheeling, rock crawling, or off-roading in general, the FJ Northeasters run is a great event to attend.

One of the best solutions for on-board storage in the FJ Cruiser is provided by a company called Springtail Solutions. I won’t go into too much detail here since I posted a complete review of their storage racks several months ago. Suffice it to say, their rear door storage rack is a life-saver when it comes to the wide assortment of smaller items that I require for longer trips. These racks, and the optional MOLLE bags that attach to them, have no problems supporting the weight requirements for items such as small tools, various camping supplies, and a well-rounded first aid kit. But by the time you add two of these racks, loaded with all the accompanying gear, to the FJ Cruiser’s rear door, the strain becomes somewhat noticeable. The weight of the internal gear, combined with the spare tire and wheel mounted on the outside of the door, is a bit more than the stock hinges can handle. This is especially true for those folks who have upgraded their tires and wheels to larger, heavier models, increasing the outside weight dramatically in some cases.

For the short term, this solution was sufficient to meet my needs. But I wanted a better solution for the long term, one that reduced the weight on the back door and optimally, provided stronger carrier support for larger tires and wheels. When I initially purchased the FJ Cruiser in early 2007, pickings for rear bumpers were slim and rear bumpers with a swing-out tire carrier solution were virtually non-existent. Over the next several years, various manufacturers released tire carrier versions of their bumpers but none of these options were to my liking. But then I came across the Expedition One Trail Series rear bumper with the optional Smooth Motion Swinging Tire Carrier system and immediately changed my opinion. To paraphrase from the Expedition One web site:

“Expedition One bumpers are constructed of high-grade, precision cut 3/16″ steel. Standard on all bumpers are 1″ thick, 3/4″ recovery shackle mounts and D-Rings can be added at an additional cost. The Expedition One™ Smooth Motion STC system™ allows you to open the tailgate in one smooth motion, and integrates the carrier and rear gate with an adjustable coupling system. This allows the extra weight of an over-sized tire to be carried by the bumper and chassis, increasing the life of the rear gate and stock hinges.  It also makes for a long-lasting and rattle-free carrier system. This design even incorporates a modular mounting system for options to add such as hi-lift jack mount, CB mount, auxiliary rack, and utility can mounts. The rear bumper is designed to utilize the stock receiver hitch and back-up sensors and can hold up to a 40″ tire with no issues. “

The Expedition One rear bumper is available without the rear tire carrier, but since my main goal was to reduce weight on the rear door, the optional tire carrier portion was essential. Another substantial advantage of the Expedition One design is their custom coupling system that allows the tire carrier swing arm to swing in sync with the FJ Cruiser’s rear door. Many of the other bumper manufacturers rely on one or two swing-out arms that have to be manually unlatched and swung out of the way, before the rear door can be opened. The Expedition One design is the only one I’ve seen so far that allows FJ Cruiser owners to open the rear door just as it was from the factory. This particular design was also one of the top choices in terms of aesthetic appeal, matching the FJ’s body lines quite well. Top this off with support for factory items such as a stock hitch and rear back-up sensors and you’ve got yourself a hands-down winner for a rear bumper replacement.

Rear Bumper Assembly:

It took less than a week of shipping time before a very large package arrived outside my house. It was with genuine excitement that I began ripping into the packaging so I could remove and examine each piece of hardware. I’d like to point out that for something this large and heavy, Expedition One did a marvelous job of packing the pieces. After wrapping items in heavy plastic, the entire package is filled with a dense and expanding foam that provides great protection during shipping. It does, however, make accessing the parts a bit more interesting as you have to essentially cut them away from the molded foam. I managed to get everything unpacked in about 20 minutes and then began planning the installation itself. With everything unpacked, I decided it would be easiest to lay out all the new hardware so I could take stock of all the required parts and make sure I had everything. The large pieces were easy enough to find and all the small parts – nuts, bolts, washers, etc. – were packed neatly in several smaller boxes. Once I had everything laid out I began perusing the installation instructions provided.

Since nothing could be installed until the stock bumper was removed, I started there. Well, actually, for convenience reasons, I actually started by removing the spare tire from the rear door. Once that was out of the way, removal of the stock bumper was not all that difficult. I began by removing several bolts on the top and bottom of the bumper. Then I unplugged the back-up sensor wiring by unsnapping the wire plugs hidden inside each bumper wing. Lastly, I popped out a small plastic plug on the lower passenger side, just inside the rear door. Once the outer plastic portion of the bumper is removed, a solid piece of styrofoam is visible. This can simply be lifted out of the way and discarded. If you have a trailer hitch installed, make sure to unbolt your trailer wiring harness too, prior to removing your old bumper.

Once the stock bumper is removed, carefully remove the back-up sensors from the stock location by sliding the plastic clips out from behind the sensors themselves. Once you have both sensors free, they can be popped into the new bumper and held into place using the same plastic clips you removed above. The fit in the new bumper can be quite snug so take care when popping the sensors back into place. The stock wiring for these sensors isn’t long enough to route behind brackets in the new bumper so just leave the wires drape for the time being. If you ordered lights or plan to install a set of existing driving lights into your new bumper, now would be a good time to bolt these into place and ensure everything fits as expected. Note: I ordered a set of PIAA lights with a plastic grille guard but the dimension of the holes cut in this particular bumper was not big enough to accommodate the grille portion. So I had to forgo this option and just install the lights by themselves.

Per the installation instructions, you will be reusing a portion of the original stock bumper. I was now at the stage where I needed to modify some plastic. The silver wing pieces of the rear bumper are held in place using small plastic clips on the inside of each bumper end. Removing each of these clips will allow you to separate the silver piece of plastic from the main portion of the bumper. It is the inner black plastic that requires modification. See your installation instructions and the photos below for more detail on exactly where and how much to trim. I used a combination of hack saw and jig saw to cut through the plastic. The plastic doesn’t offer a whole lot of resistance but this particular part of the install will probably go much smoother with a second set of hands. Holding the bumper while operating a jig saw is not the easiest of tasks, especially when you are attempting to follow a precise line.

Once the outer portions have been trimmed appropriately, you can restore your now-modified bumper to its original location for a quick test fit. Make sure you remove the piece of styrofoam if you haven’t already. It is not required for the new bumper. If everything looks good, re-seat the side pieces by popping the plastic snaps back into their holes in the sheet metal, and replace any mounting screws still required to hold the remainder of the original bumper in place. If you ordered the tire carrier version of this bumper, you will need to remove the spare tire carrier bracket and replace it with the custom strike plate that Expedition One provides. This will provide the door with reinforcement and protection for when the tire carrier is in the closed position. Be sure and clean the area behind the carrier well, prior to installing the new plate, to avoid unnecessary damage to the paint. If the nuts on the carrier bolts are rusted like mine were, try hitting them with some WD-40 or PB Blaster to loosen them up.

Now it’s time to test fit the base of the Expedition One bumper to make sure it fits over the top of the modified stock bumper. Although this part can be accomplished single-handedly, this bumper isn’t exactly light so I recommend a second pair of hands as it’s much easier to line things up. Given a proper amount of trimming on the old bumper, the new bumper should fit nice and snug to the sheet metal just below the rear door opening. If you have problems with alignment or discover that the bumper will not slide completely into place, it’s possible you will need to trim a bit more off the original bumper ends. Once everything is properly lined up, the new bumper should slide right over the top of the rear cross-member and fit neatly into place below the door opening. Be sure and check your gapping right to left as well to make sure the bumper is centered, prior to tightening any bolts.

Once you’re satisfied with the test fit, have one person hold the bumper in place over the cross-member while the second person attaches the mounting brackets underneath the vehicle. Be sure to avoid crimping or damaging the bumper light wires (if you ordered with lights) or the wires for the backup sensors when fitting the new bumper. Unless Toyota has changed the specs for later model FJs, the backup sensor wire harnesses will not be long enough to route behind the internal bumper brackets. So you will need to run these wires along the bottom inner lip of the bumper in order to reach their respective wiring harness plugs. I used the built-in plastic snap plugs and several zip ties to secure the harnesses.

You should have received two 1/4″ spacer plates in your kit. These should be placed between the bottom bumper bracket and the bottom of the frame rail so that they line up with the pre-tapped frame mounting holes. In addition to bolts through the frame, Expedition One provides two boxed brackets that are designed to fit between the upper and lower mounting tabs of the new bumper. Each box takes four bolts – two on top and two on the bottom. Mount the two box brackets in place per the installation directions but do not tighten the bolts completely. This will give you an opportunity to make last minute adjustments to the bumper’s tilt and alignment. Once you are completely satisfied with the bumper’s placement, torque all nuts and bolts to the appropriate specs until your bumper is solidly mounted in place.

As far as I know, the Expedition One rear bumper works fine with the stock exhaust configuration. I had my exhaust modified prior to this install in order to tuck it up and away from the rocks. As it turned out, the TRD exhaust tip sat too close to the rear cross-member so I had to chop it off temporarily to complete the installation. I have since restored the tip after reducing the length of the exhaust pipe itself. The wire harnesses for the bumper lights have also been temporarily sealed and zip-tied out of harm’s way. I will follow up with a separate article once I get around to wiring all the external light systems. If you only ordered the base bumper from Expedition One, your installation should now be complete. For those folks who ordered the tire carrier version, please continue reading.

Rear Tire Carrier Assembly:

Now that the main portion of the bumper is in place, it’s time to add the tire carrier swing-out arm. Unfortunately, I don’t have very many photos for this portion of the install and the instructions for this portion of the install were a bit “fuzzy”. But given the pieces remaining, assembly of the rear tire carrier is actually pretty straight forward. Mounting the arm requires a bearing seal (plastic ring), a set of bearings (one large and one small), a large washer and nut, and an aluminum cap that screws into place after installation. Start by coating the spindle (unfinished portion sticking out of the top left-hand side of the bumper) with a good amount of grease. After coating and packing the larger bearing with grease, flip the swing arm upside down and place the bearing inside the lower round portion of the swing arm. Be sure and place the bearing so that the internal and external tapers match that of the swing arm and the spindle. Once that’s done, seat the plastic seal up into this same area until it’s flush with the bottom lip of the opening. Make sure the wide portion of the seal is facing inwards (towards the bearing). This seal will not only hold the grease in place but should keep the larger bearing from slipping out when you flip the arm for installation on the spindle. Just in case though, I recommend holding the seal in place as you tip the swing arm upright and gently set it over the spindle.

Like the larger bearing, the smaller bearing will also need to be packed with grease. Once this is done, place the smaller bearing over the top of the spindle. Be sure and note the taper of the bearing and make sure it matches that of the spindle. Place the large washer over the spindle and on top of the small bearing. Complete internal assembly by placing the nut onto the top of the spindle and finger-tighten it to ensure the threads line up. As I recall, the nut requires a sizable 1 1/4″ socket so you may need to pick one up or borrow one from a friend if you don’t have one in your tool set.  While holding the swing arm at a position that’s roughly horizontal, tighten the nut into place. You may hear a pop while tightening and then things get loose all of a sudden. This is just the bearings seating themselves into place. As you continue to torque things down, test the swing arm by moving it back and forth. The tighter you make the nut, the more resistance there will be during the swing action. If you find yourself having to work too hard to move the arm, consider loosening the nut a little. I suggest leaving the aluminum cap off for the time being, until you get the spare tire mounted on the swing arm.

You should have received a rubber bumper with a bolt sticking out. This bumper mounts to the backside of the swing arm using a pre-existing hole. Once mounted, slowly swing your tire carrier arm towards the rear door. The bumper should come to rest against the square plate that replaced your stock tire carrier bracket. Now you need to attach the swing arm to the rear door so that they open and close in unison. The swing arm is attached to the rear door using two long bolts and lock nuts, a collection of copper colored bushings and washers, and a double-ended, greasable heim joint assembly. I started by threading the bolt through the swing arm bracket and adding hardware in the following order:

1. Bolt
2. Washer #1
3. Fixed bracket (top)
4. Bushing #1
5. Bushing #2
6. Heim joint
7. Bushing #3
8. Bushing #4
9. Fixed bracket (bottom)
10. Washer #2
11. Lock nut

The other side (rear door) of the heim assembly was done in the following order:

1. Bolt
2. Washer #1
3. Fixed bracket (top)
4. Bushing #1
5. Heim joint
6. Bushing #2
7. Bushing #3
8. Washer #2
9. Washer #3
10. Fixed bracket (bottom)
11. Washer #4
12. Lock nut

Since I couldn’t fit four bushings on the door side bolt, I used a couple extra washers to ensure a snug fit. The inner nuts on the heim assembly itself can be used to adjust the overall length of the assembly. Loosen these nuts and expand or contract the assembly as required while you test by opening and closing the rear door. You want the final result to be a swing arm that sits snugly against the rear door, but not so snug that it might bend or warp the door’s sheet metal.

The last piece of the swing arm installation is a triangular shaped sleeve that slides neatly over a smaller triangular bracket on the front of the swing arm. The two pieces bolt together using three short bolts, nuts and washers. You’ll notice that the bolt holes on the arm are oblong. The sleeve is designed to be adjustable in order to accommodate different size tires and wheels on the swing arm. I recommend bolting the sleeve into place but do not tighten the nuts completely. Mount the spare tire by placing your wheel over the lugs on the sleeve and adjust the sleeve in or out until the rubber of your tire sits snugly against the swing arm. Using chalk or another marking device, draw a line along the backside of the sleeve where it rests and then remove the tire. Line the sleeve up with the mark you made and tighten all the nuts. Then remount your tire and tighten into place using three lug nuts.

Your installation is nearly complete at this stage. All that’s left to do is test the swing arm in action by carefully opening and closing the rear door. Again, make sure the rubber bumper sits snugly against the strike plate but not too tight. If you find there’s too much resistance when swinging the door open, try loosening up the nut on the spindle. If there’s still too much resistance, I suggest getting a smaller wheel and tire combo for your spare, or parking your vehicle facing uphill. ;o)  Once you’re satisfied with the position and resistance of the arm, place the aluminum cap over the spindle nut and hand tighten until it’s snug. In case you’re wondering, the smaller holes that run along the top and front of the swing arm are designed to mount accessories. However at the time of this writing, Expedition One has not yet released any additional bolt-on pieces for their FJ Cruiser tire carrier system.

Update:

It’s been nearly a year since I installed the Expedition One Trail Series rear bumper with the Smooth Motion Carrier system. I’ve hit many trails, rocks, stumps and more and the bumper has proven itself more than worthy of its name. The design of the rear swing out system is ingenious in my opinion, providing quick and easy access to all my cargo with no more effort than the stock FJ Cruiser. All other systems I’ve seen require unlocking one or more swing arms and moving them completely out of the way, prior to opening the rear door. Adding to the inconvenience, many of these alternate systems also require locking the swing arm into place to prevent it from swinging back inwards.

Using the Expedition One system, gaining access to the rear cargo area is every bit as convenient as it was when your first purchased the FJ. But now you have the added advantage of less weight on the door. This makes it easier to open the door and allows owners like myself to utilize the door for additional accessories such as a Gobi ladder or mounting a second MPAC rack from Springtail Solutions. And don’t forget, the Expedition One bumper is one of the few bumpers on the market that incorporates Toyota’s stock hitch and the rear backup sensors. Many other manufacturers replace or even eliminate these items during installation.

Future product owners should, however, make note of a few items which I’d like to share with you now. Like most products, there are almost always a few flies in the ointment. In the case of this bumper, the flies are relatively harmless but I felt the need to point them out in case others run into similar issues. For anyone looking to purchase and/or install this bumper, please note the following:

• When greasing the carrier assembly, make sure you get plenty of grease on and above the top carrier bearing. I disassembled the arm after about eight months and noticed quite a build-up of rust on the top bearing. Apparently, the aluminum cap doesn’t seal as well as I thought and I didn’t have enough grease in the top portion to prevent water from entering. The other option is to seal the cap with some sort of sealant but that would probably make it more difficult to remove the cap if you ever need to disassemble in the future.
• The aluminum cap for the swing arm is round, tapered, and does not have any flat points which makes removing it a bear after it’s been sitting for awhile. The brushed aluminum with the Expedition One logo is a nice touch to the final assembly, but adding flat spots or a slot of some sort would ease the removal process quite a bit.
• The installation instructions for this product were a bit vague. For the most part, they did the job, but I found them to be lacking in detail when it came to trimming the stock bumper and there were no instructions whatsoever for the swing out assembly. Little things like this can make a big difference when it comes to installing a new product.
• The one and only real flaw was that the D-rings (in my case) were mounted too close to the angled portion of the bumper. This resulted in shackles that would not fit through the hole correctly. I ended up grinding down several of my shackles in order to allow them to swing freely in the D-rings. This is a production issue in my opinion and needs to be corrected. The solution of grinding down my own shackles did the trick but should not be necessary in my opinion.

On the whole, I still consider the Expedition One Trail Series model to be one of the best bumpers on the market today. It offers top notch features in a design that works in harmony with the FJ Cruiser. The minor issues I mention above could easily be addressed by Expedition One but even with these flaws, I would still highly recommend this bumper for those in need of a swing-out tire carrier solution. For those of you who are planning to purchase this bumper, I’ve linked to the Expedition One’s installation instructions below. I’d also like to thank OhioBenz in the FJ Cruiser forums for the detailed photos on trimming the plastic bumper. If anyone has any additional questions, please feel free to post using the comment form below.

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Expedition One Trail Series Bumper Install Instructions

Unlike a traditional one-piece wheel, the Rock Monster is a split-rim design where the outer facial portion of the wheel is removable. This two-piece design enables Hutchinson’s proprietary beadlock ring to be installed prior to wheel assembly. Once the beadlock is in place, the wheel is assembled, effectively pinching both the inner and outer tire beads between the respective rims of the wheel. This method for beadlocking is not only high effective, it’s also extremely safe. So safe, in fact, that Hutchinson Rock Monsters are the only beadlock wheel that has been approved by the department of transportation (DOT). Because Hutchinson holds military contracts, they are held to higher standards than traditional wheel manufacturers. As a result, these wheels are produced with extremely tight tolerances. They offer two different sizes of beadlock rings so you’ll need to know what tire you plan to use before ordering, to make sure you get the right size beadlock.

Assembly and disassembly of the Rock Monster wheels does require some patience, but once you’ve done one, it becomes somewhat systematic and the rest usually go pretty quickly. The molded rubber beadlock rings are fairly stiff and do require some force to get them into place. Once the ring is sitting between the tire beads, the tire is then placed over the inner rim (large portion) of the wheel. To seal the two halves of the rim, a flexible rubber gasket sits in a channel that runs just outside the bolt holes on the inner face of the outer rim. The inner rim joins the outer by aligning eighteen lugs, three of which are longer than the rest. These longer bolts are spaced equidistant from one another and are used as starter bolts designed to bring the two halves closer together before final assembly. As the gap between the two halves is lessened, the tire beads will seat against the rim and the shorter 15 bolts will become accessible so that the remaining nuts can be placed and tightened appropriately. Hutchinson recommends using a star pattern when tightening the nuts, torquing each nut first to 60 pounds, followed by a second pattern that torques each nut to 80 pounds. The biggest concern when closing the gap is to ensure the rubber gasket remains fixed in its channel. If it comes out, the halves will not seal properly, allowing air to escape.

Like most upgrade projects, I learned a few lessons along the way. Based on advice from Hutchinson, I purchased a set of TyrePliers to ease the process of disassembling the tires and rims. Forget popping a bead with traditional tire spoons. The TyrePliers allowed me to pop a single bead in about 30 seconds, with little to no effort involved. When it comes to lubricating the beads (to ease removal), some people recommend using vegetable oil or other products that can potential damage the tire or rim. I actually found that brushing the tire and wheel rim down with some soapy water before attempting to pop the beads works really well. You don’t have to worry about damage and it’s easy to wipe down afterward. Whether you’re running split rims or a traditional one-piece wheel, I highly recommend purchasing a set of TyrePliers as it will save you a lot of time and frustration both at home and in the field.

Another lesson I learned the hard way was related to tire balancing. I planned to run Interco’s TrXus MT mud terrain tire with these wheels – a 33×12.5 tire that weighs in at more than 70 pounds. Most mud terrains are difficult to balance using traditional methods so I decided to try a product called Dynabeads instead. Each tire contains 8-10 ounces of very small ceramic beads that are designed to auto-balance the tire as the rotational speed increases. Unfortunately in my case, there was still significant vibration due to lateral imbalances in the tires, so I had to resort to traditional balancing using strategically placed wheel weights. Before I could do this, however, I had to remove all of the ceramic beads, which required disassembling the wheels again. Thankfully, once I got the beads removed and the wheels and tires reassembled, traditional balancing did the trick, albeit with a whole lot of weight.

Update:

I’ve been running these wheels since late March of 2010 and I am still ecstatic over my purchase. They’ve taken repeated beatings on some pretty rough trails and even with the resulting scars, I still think these are some of the best looking wheels on the market today. And unlike a traditional beadlock that requires regular maintenance and re-torquing, the Rock Monster wheels are virtually maintenance free. I’ve repeatedly checked torque settings and kept a watchful eye for drops in air pressure, but I have yet to notice any problems with loose nuts or significant air loss. By choosing a beadlock design I never again have to worry about slipping a bead or tires spinning on the rim. And with the Rock Monster, I get this same great protection on both sides of the tire.

To be fair, there are a few drawbacks to this particular wheel. Firstly, these wheels are heavy, pushing 55 pounds a piece. So if you’re looking for a light-weight wheel to save gas mileage, these are definitely not the wheel for you. Keep in mind, however, that these wheels are designed for military use, specifically tailored to withstand bomb blasts and other potentially lethal circumstances. The second drawback to these wheels as that they require a lot more time to mount your tires. But for those do-it-yourself-ers out there, this is actually a benefit since you no longer need to take your tires and wheels to a shop for assembly.  All it takes is a few tools and some patience. The third and perhaps most significant drawback to these wheels is the price – they are not cheap by any means. But like most products these days, you get what you pay for, and in my opinion, these wheels are well worth the asking price.

For those of you looking to purchase your own set of Hutchinson Rock Monster wheels, there are a number of retailers available. I purchased mine from Expedition One, an aftermarket parts manufacturer in California. If you have any additional questions about Hutchinson’s product line, I suggest e-mailing Hal Roth in their Sales department at hroth@hutchinsoninc.com. I’ve included some photos below of the Toyota-specific Rock Monster wheels.

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Assembling Your Hutchinson Rock Monster Beadlock Wheels
Traction Control: Interco TrXus MT Mud Terrain Review

October of 2009 was a great month for my FJ Cruiser, and probably one of the most significant in terms of upgrades. I had spent the previous month or so analyzing my FJ’s performance characteristics in great detail in an effort to determine my next upgrade path. One of the immediate drawbacks to note was performance on inclines. Although the FJ comes stock with a 2.56:1 transfer case gear ratio, the gearing even in LOW/LOW leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to steep hills. Extremely rocky terrain can also prove frustrating since drivers can find themselves in constant “brake” mode, where their foot never leaves the pedal. On flat terrain, riding the brakes can indeed be an effective method for controlling forward momentum. But on inclines where the surface is loose or slippery, hitting the brakes can lead to disastrous results. The question is, what can FJ owners do to improve this situation?

There are several possible solutions to this issue, many of which involve rather significant modifications to the FJ Cruiser’s drive train. But one of the best solutions available for FJ Cruiser owners is the Inchworm Lefty transfer case. The Lefty is a left-hand drop, gear driven transfer case that comes standard with a 4.7:1 gear ratio, cutting your crawl speed nearly in half when compared to stock. The Lefty is designed to replace the stock transfer case, but it only requires a few minor modifications to the stock shifter and some wiring, making it one of the easiest upgrades to implement. Standard shifter configuration is a single stick. But Inchworm also offers the Lefty in a twin stick configuration, allowing operators to achieve a low gear ratio in either 2- or 4-wheel drive. As an added bonus, the FJ gains access to A-TRAC and rear locker capabilities in both high and low range once a Lefty is installed. Lastly, the size and clocking of the Inchworm Lefty transfer case allows for nearly four additional inches of clearance under the vehicle. This makes a big difference when traversing larger obstacles and clearing steep hills.

Based on all the above factors, I finalized my decision, selecting the Inchworm Lefty as my upgrade of choice. The only trick at that point was the installation itself. I’ve taken on some decent mechanical projects in my time, but nothing quite to the extent of replacing a transfer case. So I began looking for a reputable shop nearby that could do the work. As luck would have it, Bud at Budbuilt was offering a complete Inchworm Lefty installation package known as the “Tummy Tuck” – to include not only the Lefty, but also a custom cross-member, high-clearance skids and custom modifications to the stock exhaust system. It sounded like the perfect solution, so I contacted him over the phone and made arrangements to drop off the FJ in his native town of Lenoir, North Carolina. It was a bit of a drive for me but well worth the time to get an upgrade this cool.

I took the below shots right before our trip to Bud’s, prior to any tummy tuck modifications. At the time of these photos, the FJ was sporting a full set of Budbuilt powder-coated skid plates. Ample rust, dirt and scratches aside, the skids in these pictures provided excellent protection during my excursions and expeditions. Just above the skids, if you look a little closer, you’ll note the large and low-hanging cross member used to support the stock transmission. This monster, along with the frame support brackets and low-hanging exhaust pipe, are a big reason for doing this upgrade. By replacing the stock transmission support with a Budbuilt cross member, the FJ gains almost 4″ of breakover angle clearance. And the modifications made to the existing exhaust system allow your FJ to breathe more easily since the cross-over pipe is no longer pinched. Speaking of the exhaust, take a look at the stock muffler. I’m honestly amazed that it lasted as long as it did considering it’s location and size. The over-sized stock canister muffler will also be replaced during this procedure.

From northern Maryland, it took about 8 hours of southward driving before my wife, daughter and I finally had the pleasure of meeting Bud in person. And I have to say, what a great guy – ultra-friendly and very down to earth – Bud welcomed us like members of his own family. We spent several hours touring his shop, meeting other family members and getting all the details on what was involved with a standard tummy tuck procedure.

For those of you who may not know, Budbuilt is a family owned business that Bud started himself back in 1999. By combining more than 20 years of mechanical engineering background and an undying enthusiasm for off-roading, Bud has managed to build a very successful business. We’ve had a lot of dealings since this first meeting, and I can honestly say I don’t think I’ve ever met a nicer or more personable individual. As a businessman, Bud knows his products and absolutely excels at customer service – bending over backwards to achieve the impossible at times in order to ensure his customers are always satisfied. And as one of many customers, I was no exception to this rule.

Because our arrangement was somewhat last minute due to prior commitments on my end, I decided to part with my FJ for several weeks rather than just a few days. This not only gave Bud time to complete the tummy tuck modifications, but since Bud didn’t have immediate access to an FJ Cruiser, it also provided an opportunity to engineer some new parts and components for the FJ community in general. So I was more than happy to give up my favorite ride since it meant potential new products down the line. Since I wasn’t present to help or directly witness all the modifications, I think much of this story will have to be told using pictures that were taken before, during and after completing the installation. So let us dive right in, shall we?

It wasn’t long after we returned to Maryland that Bud began sending updated photos of his progress. The photos I received were a combination of tummy tuck progression and new product prototype designs. With each new photo I became more and more excited, witnessing the build-up from afar. Due to Bud’s overwhelmingly busy schedule, some of the items originally prototyped are still in development phase so I can’t share any of those photos just yet. But there are a few things that have now been added to the main Budbuilt product list which I’ll share later on. Most of the below photos concentrate on the underbelly of the FJ Cruiser and should give you a brief idea of what’s involved in this type of project. I should also point out that if you’re just looking for lower gearing, an Inchworm Lefty transfer case can be installed without replacing any of the stock support components or modifying the exhaust. But for me, the added benefits of a full tummy tuck were unquestionable.

The pictures below are pretty self-explanatory but a few of them are more noteworthy. The Lefty transfer case does not contain synchronization gears so an add-on switch is required to simulate the stock shift-on-the-fly capability used in 4-wheel high gear. I ended up adding this switch to my center console. Taking a look at the last picture, you can see how Bud takes full advantage of the existing cross member by cutting at a very specific angle during removal. This eliminates the low hanging portion while leaving behind a sturdy mounting point for his custom cross member.

In the next set of photos you’ll notice the driver and passenger side catalytic converters. Both converters get chopped and raised during this procedure to allow for additional clearance when the new skids are installed. Make note of the rusty stock exhaust pipe. The section from catalytic converters to muffler gets completely replaced.

The next pictures show the new cross member and Lefty installed, along with the new exhaust piping that has now been raised as well. A replacement muffler is not included with the price of the standard tummy tuck but can be added for a little extra. I chose to replace the stock muffler to gain some extra clearance as well as a throatier sound.

The next photos display the newly formed Budbuilt skids. To help reduce maintenance I opted for stainless steel this go-around. Powder coating is pretty durable for most components. But it doesn’t last long when it’s drug across sharp rocks under the strain of nearly 5000 pounds. Plus, the stainless skids add a certain show quality to the FJ so it seemed like a win-win scenario. In the second photo below, notice how the skids now raise up at an incline rather than coming straight back from the motor. The new high-clearance skids are designed with an upward bend that begins shortly after the engine’s oil pan and rises at an angle to meet the Budbuilt cross member. For those who may not be aware, Bud also offers laser cut Budbuilt logos if you’re interested. I’ve included a few shots of the front skids with logos below.

Based on Bud’s own engineering genius as well as customer demand, Bud decided to focus his prototyping efforts on several items:

• Rear Differential Skid Plate
• Stock Transfer Case Clocking Plate
• Lower Link Skids
• Front Bumper Gap Skid Plate

Below are some shots taken during the prototyping phase. Please keep in mind that the materials using during prototyping are intentionally of a much lower grade and thickness and tack welding is used to hold individual portions together. This helps to save time and money during testing because it’s cheaper to produce prototypes and much easier to modify in this form. Once these products reach the manufacturing stage, they are laser cut using a CAD design and full grade material, and all seams are fully welded, ground and polished. As you’ll note from the later pictures, Bud’s engineering and manufacturing background play a big part in creating products that are extremely precise in their design.

Below are the prototyping pictures taken while Bud was designing the rear differential skid plate. The final result was truly a work of art. I’ve given him more than one compliment on this masterpiece and based on customer reviews I’d say others wholeheartedly agree. Thanks to Bud’s efforts, the FJ Cruiser community now has one more piece of Budbuilt equipment to drool over.

In addition to the skid plate, Bud had been wanting to develop a clocking plate that could be used to rotate the stock transfer case upwards for those looking to gain some additional clearance without investing in an Inchworm Lefty transfer case. I believe this is considered a partial tummy tuck since it still utilizes the custom Budbuilt cross member but it allows FJ Cruiser enthusiasts to do this upgrade in stages instead of all at once. And while it doesn’t gain you the 4″ that the Lefty does, it still provides close to two additional inches of clearance which is still an advantage over the stock configuration.

One of the items that I personally requested from Bud was a set of skids for the front portion of the rear lower control arms since this is a known weak area in the stock design. Bud happily obliged me and came up with a design that is both versatile and quite sturdy. Unlike some of the other aftermarket link skids, Bud designed his to be slightly wider than the stock brackets. This works much better for those folks who may have bent or damaged the stock bracket. It also provides a wider surface area which distributes the weight more evenly when encountering an obstacle. The stock mounting bolt is replaced with a heavier grade bolt and shims are used to fill the remaining interior space. Like most Budbuilt products, these skids are intended to be a bolt-on part but they can also be welded for extra strength. I’ve included a few of the post-installation photos to give a better idea of the final result. Like the rear diff skid, Bud now offers the lower link skids as part of his standard product line.

As though the standard Budbuilt skid plate package wasn’t enough, Bud took this opportunity to add yet another item to his arsenal – a forward-facing skid that fills the gap between the front-most cross member and the bottom of the front bumper. Like Budbuilt’s other skid offerings, this newly-designed skid is laser cut from 3/16″ material and offers vital protection for the primary radiator and any other coolers you may have installed. In my case, this space also contains a transmission cooler, as well as the motor and hoses for the supercharger intercooler. Now, thanks to this new skid, I no longer have to worry about branches or flying rocks damaging my vital cooling components and leaving me stranded due to leaks or overheating. I don’t actually have any of the prototype pictures for this particular skid so I’ve just included some photos from post-installation instead.

Well that pretty much covers the prototypes that I can share at this point. There is no doubt that Bud deserves a tremendous amount of credit for completing such a large number of tasks in such a short period of time. Not only was the tummy tuck done in record time, but the FJ community now has several new items to add to their Christmas wish list as a result of his efforts. As a testament to the lengths that Bud will go to please a customer, Bud apparently went through eight different brands of mufflers until he finally came across one that offered both the clearance and the sound he thought I was looking for. Now that’s commitment to customer service!

As impressed as I was with the photos, I was even more impressed when I arrived back in his shop several weeks later. The final product was absolutely stunning! The new skids not only offered a lot more clearance, but Bud had taken the time to polish up the stainless steel surface to the point where you could almost see yourself in the reflection. Not to be outdone by its shiny protectors, the new Inchworm Lefty stood apart from the rest of the stock components, visibly broadcasting its presence with Inchworm’s signature powder-blue case and thick aluminum clocking plate. The new beefy cross member sat slightly higher than the bottom of the frame rails, providing a solid mounting plate for the transmission above and the new skids below. I think I probably spent over an hour just talking with Bud while he went over all the modifications in detail.

Once I was able to stop drooling, Bud lowered the FJ from the lift and I was able to test drive it for the first time in almost a month. Wow what a difference! Cosmetic changes aside, the Lefty’s new 4.7:1 gear ratio proved to be completely worth the investment. In LOW/LOW I was able to crawl the front steps of Bud’s shop without ever giving it gas. The newly acquired torque and control was absolutely amazing. I don’t honestly know who was grinning more, Bud or me, at that point. I guess seeing a look of pure joy on a customer’s face was a sign of a job well done. Indeed, it was a job fantastically done and I’m ever thankful to Bud and his team for all their hard work! And now for the coup-de-gras – the final pictures! These pictures were taken after I returned home so my apologies to Bud for dirtying up the skids after he worked so hard to polish them up.  ;o)

UPDATE:

More than a year has passed since I visited Bud’s shop and there’s still no doubt – the Budbuilt tummy tuck remains my favorite FJ modification to date. The lower gear ratio is absolutely awesome for hill descents, providing superb control when I need it the most. It works quite well in rocky terrain too, allowing me to crawl through some very rough areas without having to constantly ride the brakes.

The overall experience did come with a few lessons, however, which I’d like to share. I’d like to clarify that I’m sharing these experiences with the intention of helping others who decide to pursue some or all of the above modifications. My FJ was officially the second FJ to undergo a Budbuilt tummy tuck procedure so in terms of practice and implementation Bud had a lot of new ground to cover and he did an amazing job at that. I know we’ve both learned a great deal as a result and I sincerely hope that relating these issues can help someone else out there who may run into similar problems.

Perhaps one of the most notable, yet unexpected, issues to arise after the modifications was due to a clearance issue with the Lefty transfer case. In an effort to gain as much clearance as possible, Bud raised the Lefty and transmission cross member up slightly higher than on the previous install. This would not have posed a problem had it not been for the added torque of the supercharger. Short take-offs and other high-torque scenarios (primarily in first gear) caused the Lefty to spin in a clockwise motion, striking the underside of the transmission tunnel in the process. It wasn’t enough impact that it was going to damage any of the components, but the repetitive clunking definitely got your attention. To save me a return trip to NC, Bud arranged to have me meet with Cal at Iron Pig Off-Road in Virginia, in hopes of making some minor adjustments that would resolve the issue.

After several hours of trial and error, IPOR discovered that relocating the mounting holes in the cross member about 1/2″ towards the passenger side resolved about 90 percent of the clearance issue. But there was still light contact under high torque. When I relayed this information to Bud he immediately set to reworking the cross member design to account for more torque and greater clearance. The new design offered two separate mounting locations as well as an additional rearward section that would bolt up to the bottom of the Lefty transfer case for added support during high torque. The plan was to get the new design finalized and manufacture a prototype which he would then send to me for testing.

While I waited for the new cross member to be completed, another minor issue cropped up. To properly tighten the bolts in the front of the lower links, several shims were required to fill the space within. At some point over the month that followed my NC visit, these shims started to rub against one another, resulting in a very audible creaking. Again, this was a minor inconvenience that in no way affected the mechanical or structural integrity of the vehicle. But like most rattles, creaks and groans, it tended to be very distracting while driving.

Shortly after the first snow in Maryland, I discovered another bug in the system. The stock transfer case has three separate sensors. The first one detects 4-wheel drive high and low range, the second one is used to engage the automatic differential disconnect (ADD), and the last one detects if the vehicle is in neutral. Of these three, only the first one is used on the Lefty. A separate optional switch is generally used to engage or disengage the ADD (if you want shift on the fly), and the neutral indicator is no longer used once the stock transfer case is removed. The problem I experienced was that any time I exceeded ~25mph in 4-wheel drive high range, the dash would light up the following indicator lights: Check Engine, TRAC, VSC-OFF, VSC-TRAC. When I pulled the error code it showed up as “4WD LOW CIRCUIT”. Despite the codes being thrown, however, there didn’t appear to be any real mechanical issues.

Since none of the above issues really posed a problem per se, I decided to focus on all the positive benefits of the tummy tuck instead of a few minor setbacks. Unfortunately my attention was diverted shortly thereafter, when the rear output seal of the Lefty started bleeding gear oil, which put me in a bit of a panic. I tried contacting local mechanics to investigate and repair but everyone locally was booked up for two to four weeks. I finally contacted Bud and explained the full scenario. As another testament to just how far Bud will go to please his customers, he dropped everything he was doing and arranged to meet me in Virginia the next day in order to save us from driving the FJ all the way down to North Carolina. He even offered to help with the cost of a rental vehicle in the event that repairs took longer than anticipated.

With the FJ back in his shop, Bud replaced the standard Inchworm output seal with a new seal from Marlin Crawler that has a much better reputation for reliability and durability. Since this seal was replaced, I have had no further leaks. He also spent a great deal of time troubleshooting and fixing the other issues related to clearance. The new cross member was now ready for testing so he replaced the original style with the newly updated model. In the end, relocating the mounting holes in the cross member about 1/2″ towards the passenger side, as well as lowering the cross member just slightly, resolved the problems with the Lefty. The combination of these two changes provided the transfer case with plenty of clearance even during high-torque situations so there was no need to utilize the additional bolts and mounting plate for the transfer case. The creaking issue with the link shims was also easily fixed by welding the internal shims together to prevent rubbing.

After a lot of troubleshooting, the error codes in 4-wheel drive high range appeared to be based on translation errors between the Lefty and the stock computer system. The circumstances that caused the error were easily repeatable and threw the same code every time. Bud even verified this with several other Lefty users who were experiencing the same problem. Bud and myself have both contacted Inchworm seeking a resolution to this problem but the responses were somewhat lacking. It would be nice to see Inchworm take a proactive approach towards fixing this issue, but unfortunately, it’s been over a year now and the problem has yet to be resolved. Fortunately for myself and other Lefty owners, this issue appears limited to lights and codes and doesn’t appear to have any real mechanical side affects. I’m crossing my fingers that it remains that way.

One other modification that Bud made on the FJ’s second visit was related the exhaust piping. The original (replacement) crossover pipe was a solid piece that had been welded on both ends (converter and muffler). This designed proved to be a bit cumbersome since it meant chopping out the pipe any time anyone needed to access the Lefty. So while the FJ was in residence, he cut out the welded piece, welded in some heavy duty Toyota exhaust flanges, and replaced the welded portion with a separate flanged piece of pipe that could be easily removed to aid in repairs. Note: Raising the exhaust piping will result in more heat transfer to the underside of the FJ. I have since added heat shielding to the transmission tunnel and heat wrap to the crossover pipe to combat this problem.

The bolts used to mount the transmission skid to the new Budbuilt cross member were only temporary and were quickly replaced with an allen head bolt that was rounded on top. Even though these bolts are smaller and higher up than some of the other skid plate bolts, rocks can be quite clever and unforgiving at times. It only took one trip to Rausch Creek to mash and distort the allen head, preventing their removal with traditional tools. I ended up grinding the heads down so that the skid could be removed, at which point I removed the damaged bolts using pliers. To combat this problem I did a little digging and discovered a local company named Blue Chip Metals that did a lot of custom work with stainless and aluminum. Once I explained what I needed they happily obliged and two days later I was staring at a newly modified transmission skid, complete with machined collars for the cross member bolts. At some point I need to drop the gas tank skid and have these same collars added there as well to prevent damage to the gas tank bolts.

I’ve included a few more photos to display some of the changes that were made to components since the initial installation. The new cross over pipe is now wrapped with heat tape and bolted into place thanks to Bud’s modifications. You can also see the 2nd generation cross member with the extra mounting holes and newly added rearward section. This new T-section of the cross member was designed to work with a custom Lefty mounting bracket (also seen below). I’ve also included some pictures of the machined bolt collars that Blue Chip Metals added to give you a better idea of the final result. I’d like to again take the opportunity to thank Bud at Budbuilt for offering fantastic products and customer service without compare. I’ve never before experienced the amount of dedication that Bud exhibits when it comes to his customers and I am extremely grateful that I’ve had the opportunity to meet him in person. So if you’re in the market for a tummy tuck, or you’re ever near Lenoir, NC, I heartily suggest you stop by and say hello.

Related Links

Inchworm Lefty – Complete Installation Guide

In my case, since I already have an auxiliary battery in place, I’ll be integrating this new fuse panel into the secondary system. Preparations and requirements for adding a fuse panel may vary from application to application. A lot of the details depend on how much amperage you plan to draw. Any large-draw accessories, such as off-road lights, will end up using a separate system that ties more directly to the battery using a series of relays and switches. The intent behind the fuse panel is to support a large assortment of low-power accessories like music and movie players, cellular phones, and portable GPS devices.

Although there are a wide variety of choices for automotive fuse panels, I opted for a 12-position panel from Blue Sea due to its reputation for quality and versatility in a relatively compact size. The dimensions of your fuse panel are an important consideration. Based on where you plan to locate your new fuse block, you may need to alter manufacturers to find a design that fits your particular needs. I decided fairly early on that I would be locating my fuse panel inside the passenger-side kick panel, just below and to the right of the FJ Cruiser’s glove box. The 12-position fuse block from Blue Sea works perfectly for this location and provides me with plenty of room for adding accessories as I need them.

With electrical projects, I find it’s much easier to compile a complete list of project items ahead of time. I have found that Amazon.com is a great place to purchase electrical supplies and I’ve included the items required for this project as links (below) to make it easier for anyone else who may be looking. You may also notice from the list below, that I decided to purchase some of my items in a variety of sizes and quantities. It isn’t necessary to purchase loom, wire, fuses and shrink tubing in bulk. But the added materials give me a lot more flexibility with the project in case I need to make any last minute adjustments. In reality, the amount of heat shrink tubing, wire and wire terminals can vary depending on where the wires are routed, how many wires are bundled together, and where the wire connections are made. And as a general rule it’s cheaper in the long run to purchase items like wire loom and wire itself in larger quantities. As an added bonus, the increased variety and quantity also provides me with a well-rounded stock of electrical supplies for future projects. Note: The numbers after each item indicate the total number of each item to purchase.

• Blue Sea 5026 Fuse Block (1)
• 200 AGU In-Line Fuse Holder (1)
• 120 Piece Car Fuse Assortment (1)
• 127 Piece Heat Shrink Tubing Set (1)
• 65 Piece Assorted Grommet Kit (1)
• Battery Isolator and 80 AMP Relay (1)
• 5 Pack 80 Amp AGU Fuses (1)
• Add-A-Circuit Kit (1)
• 1/4″ Wire And Tubing Protector Split Loom (50 feet) (1)
• 3/8″ Wire And Tubing Protector Split Loom (50 feet) (1)
• 1/2″ Wire And Tubing Protector Split Loom (50 feet) (1)
• 3/4″ Wire And Tubing Protector Split Loom (50 feet) (1)
• 1″ Wire And Tubing Protector Split Loom (50 feet) (1)
• 6 AWG Red Battery / Starter Cable (50 feet) (1)
• 14 AWG Red Wire (100 feet) (1)
• 14 AWG Black Wire (100 feet) (1)
• 6 AWG Battery Cable 1/2″ Brazed Lug Ring / Eye Terminals (2 per pkg) (2)
• 6 AWG Battery Cable 3/8″ Brazed Lug Ring / Eye Terminals (3 per pkg) (2)

Once all the supplies arrived, I began working immediately on the fuse block. I decided to split the fuse panel into 6 terminals that were connected directly to the battery through a fuse (always hot) and 6 terminals that were also fused, but only hot when the key was in the ACC or ON position (switched). To accomplish this, I needed to open up the back of the fuse panel and perform some minor surgery, if you will. This particular Blue Sea fuse block (model number 5026) is split between 12 positive terminals on the bottom, and 12 negative grounding terminals at the top. Since I would be grounding my individual accessories elsewhere, I removed the 12 grounding terminals from the top portion, but left the primary negative bus attached. I then used a hack saw to cut a small section out of the primary positive bus bar, splitting the twelve terminals by leaving six on each side. In order to provide the top six terminals with a power source, I soldered a small section of 6AWG wire between the top section of bus bar and the main bus left over from the negative terminals. The following photos should give you a better idea of the changes I made.

With the fuse panel modifications completed, I moved on to the next step of the project – the wiring. This particular fuse block supports a maximum amperage rating of 100 amps, so I opted to use 6AWG wire for the main battery leads. Fuse selection is very important in these scenarios. To prevent wire meltdown from too much draw, the fuse amperage should be less than the total amperage rating for the wire. Since 6AWG wire is rated for roughly 100 amps, I opted to use 80 amp, inline fuses. This still allows for plenty of current draw but minimizes the chances of overload because the fuse will blow before the wire amperage is exceeded. Another option, if you don’t like inline fuses, is to use a circuit breaker. But these are typically more difficult to find and a lot more expensive than using fuses. Lastly, keep in mind that the gauge of any grounding wire should be the same size as that of your positive lead for the same item you’re attempting to ground.

Next on my list, was the relay required to operate the switched devices on the fuse panel. Like my fuses, I selected an 80 amp relay to ensure the main wire leads were not overloaded. The relay I chose comes with a bracket for mounting. I chose to mount my relay to the side of my secondary battery tray, just below the primary battery isolator (used to tie into the existing electrical system). I planned to run the fuse panel leads through the passenger-side firewall directly behind the second battery tray. To facilitate this, as well as mount the new relay, I decided it would be easier to temporarily remove the second battery and tray before starting. The custom battery tray that came with the Dirty Parts dual battery kit worked perfectly for mounting the second relay. I just drilled two additional holes through the side tab and bolted the new relay into place.

With the passenger-side fender area clear, I turned my attention to mounting the fuse panel inside the cabin. Removing the passenger kick panel is as simple as removing the plastic sill cover (it just snaps into place) and unscrewing the small plastic knob that holds the panel into place. The kick panel then just slides outward for removal. There aren’t a lot of solid attachment points in this area so I just ended up using plastic zip ties to secure the fuse block to whatever relatively solid objects I could find. I did manage to get a lower mounting screw lined up with the white plastic used to secure some of the stock wiring which helped solidify the mounting.

Next, I removed the 80 amp inline fuse holders from their packaging and separated the components to make it easier to add them to the wiring. Because I split the fuse block into two separate bus bars, I now required two separate 6AWG leads from the secondary battery. Both leads also required the inline fuses for safety reasons. It’s always a good rule of thumb to keep the fuses closer to the battery when possible. I cut the first two leads fairly short (about 12-18 inches) but your length may vary depending on where you want to place the inline fuses. After placing one end of the fuse holders on each lead, I soldered and heat shrunk a 6 gauge 1/2″ eyelet onto the other ends. I finished by surrounding both leads with a single piece of 3/4″ wire loom and attaching them both to the positive battery lead (currently not hooked up).

After measuring the distance from the new lead ends, through the firewall and reaching the new fuse panel, I cut a third length of 6AWG wire to be used for the remainder of the direct lead (non-switched). This wire will bypass the relay and go directly from the inline fuse to the fuse block now mounted inside the cabin. Two additional 6AWG wires are required for the switched portion – one to run from the inline fuse to one side of the relay and one to run from the relay through the firewall to the switched section of the fuse block. A 3/8″ eyelet and heat shrink tubing were required for the ends that attach to the relay as well as the fuse block bus bars. The remaining two ends received the other side of the inline fuse holders. I surrounded all portions of wire that run inside the engine compartment with individual lengths of 3/8″ wire loom. This not only gives the install a cleaner look, it also helps prevent wire abrasion due to vehicle vibrations.

There is a fairly large rubber grommet on the passenger side of the firewall that made a perfect location for running leads through to the new fuse block. I made sure to note which lead was switched and which was not so I could attach each lead to the appropriate bus bar. Each lead is attached to the respective post on the front of the fuse panel and held in place with a small nut. The front cover of this fuse panel expects the leads to enter the panel from the sides or from the top/bottom respectively. This allows the cover to snap securely over the panel once the wires are in place. There also needs to be enough room for all the accessory wiring so keep that in mind when locating your fuse panel.

The two large posts on the 80 amp relay are designed for your large amperage wire. The two smaller posts are intended to be used for your hot and ground wires from the switch that controls the switched side of your fuse block. In my case, I already had switched circuit available from the secondary battery system so I just tied into that circuit using a short jumper wire for both the positive and negative leads.

The wire gauge for the switch itself can generally be a lot lighter since it’s only used to engage the relay, but I’d still recommend a minimum of 14AWG wire (see links above). If you don’t already have access to a switched power source, consider running a circuit back into the cabin and tieing it into the stock fuse panel using an Add-A-Circuit kit (listed above). Use a voltmeter to determine which slots are hot when the key is in the ACC or ON position, but dead when the key is in the OFF position. Once you locate a slot, tie the positive side of your relay switch into it using the Add-A-Circuit. The negative side of your relay switch can be run to pretty much anywhere nearby that provides a decent ground. As always, take extra care when running and routing your wires to ensure they are completely clear of any moving parts or components that will heat up while the vehicle is running.

With the fuse block mounted and hot-wired on both sides and all the leads now ready for assembly in the engine bay, I replaced the secondary battery and tray. I left the main battery leads disconnected while I attached the 6AWG leads and switching wires to the newly added 80 amp relay. Once again, all connections were soldered and heat shrunk for added longevity and neatness. Once the relay was wired, I added an 80 amp fuse to each fuse holder and assembled both ends to complete the 6AWG circuits to the battery. I did a last-minute check to ensure that all wires were clear of engine parts and then secured the larger loom with zip ties to the firewall. Lastly, I reattached the main battery leads to their respective terminals on the battery.

UPDATE:

The original install date for the auxiliary fuse block was July of 2009. I’ve had no issues with the install or any of the hardware, but I do have a few things to note.

Firstly, I chose to run the main leads through the passenger-side firewall because it was the most obvious location considering my fuse block is just on the other side. But in hindsight, I now realize that any engine bay accessories would need to be routed through the same area. With the second battery and air box in place, this is highly inconvenient and will most likely require removal of one or both of these items to gain access to the firewall. The other option is to install a second auxiliary fuse panel in the engine compartment so that external accessories could be wired without removing the battery/air box.

Secondly, if and when I get around to adding a winch or another fuse panel, I will be out of room on the main battery posts. The close proximity from battery to air intake makes the front battery posts inaccessible as well. So in the future, I plan to add a secondary bus bar that feeds off the secondary battery. This will allow future accessories that require direct access to the battery to be easily added without unnecessary clutter or confusion.

Other than the above two minor issues, I have been exceptionally happy with this setup. Shortly after the addition of this fuse panel, I installed 3 additional 12v outlets in the center console. The details will have to wait for another article, but suffice it to say that the addition and location of this new fuse panel made this job a cinch to complete. If you are considering the addition of a secondary battery or just want to add multiple accessories to your FJ’s interior, I highly recommend adding a secondary fuse block. It makes things a lot less confusing and gives you one central area on the interior of the vehicle where you can tie in all your add-ons. If you’re interested in adding a secondary battery to your FJ Cruiser, don’t forget to see part one of this series (linked below).

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Adding 12-Volt Power Outlets to an FJ Cruiser

Last year’s Coal Mine run was a bit disorganized but thankfully there were quite a few folks who stepped up to help out. Jeff and Aida, long-time Land Cruiser owners and enthusiasts, were among the group of volunteers, offering to serve as trail guides for event participants. As I roamed about Thursday morning, I was pleasantly surprised to meet up with Jeff and Aida again as they arrived and prepped their FJ-40 for the day’s activities. When I discovered they would once again be leading, I quickly jumped aboard, adding my FJ to their group. After a few last-minute vehicle checks and CB channel assignments we were heading out of the staging area towards the trails.

Due to the lack of recent rainfall, Thursday’s trail ride resulted in a very large collection of dust inside the FJ. The dusty conditions were further exacerbated by the lack of stock doors to block the low-level dust being kicked up by the tires. The tube doors offer great visibility and better air flow, but that increased air flow also means a lot more dust accumulation inside the vehicle – so much so, that by the end of the day the interior of the FJ was slowly disappearing under almost 1/8″ of fine powder. Despite the dust, however, we still had a great day of crawling on a variety of green and blue trails.

Thurdsay night was only forecasting a 30 percent chance of rainfall, so I decided to chance it and leave the tube doors uncovered for the evening. As it turned out, the odds were against me because it decided to downpour at some time during the night. This not only resulted in standing water inside the vehicle and rain-soaked seats, it also created a significant amount of muddy residue throughout the vehicle, turning the once fine dust power into instant brown goo that seeped into all sorts of nooks and crannies. Oops. Lesson learned. Don’t play the odds when it comes to rain.

The number of participants increased significantly on Friday, as more people joined the ranks. Thanks to the previous night’s rain, the weather had calmed down substantially as well, lowering temps to the mid 70′s and almost no dust to speak of. Jeff and Aida resumed their role as group leader and after the normal trail prep, we headed out for a second day of fun and excitement. Friday was a bit more eventful, as we had one group member with a problematic 80-series Land Cruiser – one that suffered from a lack of low gear in 4-wheel-drive, insufficient engine power, fuel flow problems, and a host of other issues. Lunch time came a bit early that day, as this same 80 series managed to bend its tie rod in an attempt to traverse a rocky hillside. Thankfully, we had some mechanically handy group members who stepped up to help out. The faulty piece was eventually removed, bent back to its original state via a nearby tree, and everything was re-assembled in working order.

We spent the remainder of the day on green and blue trails, but did manage to get one good off-shoot into a blue- and black-rated area known as “Yellow Jacket”. I didn’t get much in the way of pictures but thankfully Tony, one of our friends from the New York area, was kind enough to shoot some videos which I’ve included below. The first video is of me heading down the obstacle, requiring only a few minutes to traverse. The second and third videos are also me, but this time I decided to turn around and run the same obstacle from the opposite direction, heading up instead of down. As you can see from the videos, it took quite a few more tries before I was able to successfully top it. After watching the video a few times, it appears as though I could have simply approached the pile of boulders a bit closer to the passenger side and lined up a little better. But hindsight is always 20/20 as they say. Next trip up I plan to try it again now that I have a better plan of action.

Saturday took a slightly different turn as I had invited Dean and Bobby, some Jeeper friends from Virginia, to come up and run trails. Although I had a blast with Jeff, Aida and the rest of the group, Dean decided he wanted to run in a slightly smaller group, so I asked Tony and his wife (and co-pilot) Lupe, if they’d like to join us for the day, which they did. While I served as the overall guide of the group, we remained focused on green and blue trails, but I tried to spend a bit more time in blue areas than in green. At one point Dean and I split off with the intention of running a blue trail known as 12-A, but instead, we accidentally took a wrong turn and ended up running an alternate blue trail known as 12-B, which took a lot longer to complete. After more than 30 minutes of delay we finally re-joined our comrades, sheepish and apologetic. We continued running trails until about 3pm, when we decided to head to the southeast side of the property.

Our intention was to run “Yellow Jacket” again, but I decided to run Trail#8 beforehand where I managed to get hung up on a particularly pointy boulder on the back half of the loop. High-centered with almost zero traction, I ended up having to hi-lift my passenger side and add more rocks before I was able to dislodge the FJ off this pinnacle of immobility. While Bobby and I focused on a hi-lift recovery, Tony was spotting Dean in his JK Unlimited, attempting to get him into a position where he could winch me off the rock. Unfortunately, Dean’s rig was still somewhat lacking in proper skid plates so his progress was much slower than expected. He only made it about halfway back to my location when I managed to successfully dislodge myself. So between the time it took to recover with the hi-lift, spot Dean back to the trail entrance, and crawl my own way out, we had wasted well over an hour of potential trail time. Since it was nearing 4 o’clock at this point, we decided to hit one last section of green trail on the southeast side of the property to round out the day.

All in all, this year’s Coal Mine run was a great time with the usual collection of fun and interesting folks. I’d like to say thanks again to all the organizers. Without you folks, events like this would never take place. In addition, a special thanks goes out to Jeff and Aida (I hope I’m spelling that correctly)  for serving as our trail guide and spotter for the first two days. You guys did a great job as always.  It was also very nice to meet and wheel with everyone else in the group and I hope to see all of you on future runs. And lastly, thanks to Dean, Bobby, Tony and Lupe for making Saturday just as much fun and being good sports when it comes to my junior trail guiding abilities.

Yellow Jacket (heading down):

Yellow Jacket (heading back up) – Part One:

Yellow Jacket (heading back up) – Part Two:

Some of the members arrived the night before and camped out in tents but since I’m a little closer than most, I decided to just drive up the same day. I arrived at the RCORP staging area around 8am where I was introduced to several members of the VA4x4 crew. There was apparently a large event for Xterras scheduled for that same day as well, so the park was busy that morning. After paying the park fees, airing down and seeing to other general trail preparations, we organized into a small group of five vehicles and headed out of the park in search of mud and rocks. Our vehicle line-up consisted of two Toyota truggies, one from an ’88 pickup and one from a former 4Runner, one well-equipped XTerra, an equally-outffitted 80-series Land Cruiser, and myself in an FJ Cruiser.

After crossing through some short green sections of trail, we spent the remainder of the morning hitting blue- and black-rated trails. The truggies were very impressive to watch as they traversed the larger boulder areas with apparent ease. Even the Land Cruiser managed to prove true to its heritage, deftly scaling large boulders and steep ledges with agility that belied its size. I bypassed several of the more difficult areas but the rest of the crew performed marvelously over some genuinely difficult obstacles.

We returned back to camp around noon to take a short break and grab some lunch. After lunch we decided to go have some fun in the competition course area, where once again the truggies proved quite capable. Instead of heading back out to the trails, we decided to toy around on the comp course for a bit longer  before heading back to the staging area and calling it a day. All in all we had a great time and I got to meet some great new folks that I hope to wheel with again in the near future. I didn’t get as many pictures as I normally do, but I did manage to snap a few at the staging area, as we stopped for breaks along the trail, and a few more of some of the rigs in the comp course area. I’d like to close by saying thanks to all the guys in the group for having me along. I look forward to wheeling with you again soon!

Using the Maryland Vehicle Administration (MVA) online license request utility I began the process of narrowing down my choices, many of which were already taken. In the end though, I think I came up with a plate that fits my FJ’s personality to a “T” and manages to bring a little more life to an already thriving vehicle. Behold my newly re-branded FJ, casually known to friends and relatives as “Chunk”, now formally and officially known as the “Dirt Hog”. It was an exciting day for both of us as we stood proudly with our new name tags.

See you on the trails!

For a lot of folks, selecting the next set of tires for your vehicle is as simple as replacing the existing set with a new set of the same brand. This is one of the primary reasons why opinions on “the best tire” are so limited. It’s commonplace for consumers to stick to a single brand/model of tire for the lifetime of their vehicle – the theory being that if it works, keep using it. This is the primary reason why I ran BFGoodrich all-terrains for so many years. It was a good all-purpose tire that suited my needs very well in most scenarios. But based on price as well as the reviews provided for the Nitto Terra Grapplers, I took a chance at the time, and switched brands to try something new. And I’m glad I did. I definitely preferred the Nitto all-terrains over BFG’s offering. Not to say it was a better tire but simply that I preferred the look and performance of the Nitto design. Since all-terrains had proven repeatedly that they lacked the necessary traction to get through the tougher obstacles, I decided to try something a bit more extreme this go-around, opting for a mud-terrain tire instead.

So, once again, I was facing new territory. For anyone who has ever faced the vast selection of tires available, you can most likely attest to the magnitude of narrowing down your options to a single choice. Even narrowing down to a brand is a difficult task. I did a fair amount of research beforehand, comparing online reviews, to customer reviews, to marketing hype, to real-world testing and results. Forums can be a great resource as well but the opinions are so widely varied that it becomes a somewhat futile task to filter through all the opinions. And like I said earlier, devotion to a single brand is not uncommon. Very rarely do you find someone who has tried and tested multiple brands on the same vehicle under the same conditions. In the end, selecting the perfect tire for your individual needs is at best a crapshoot. After several months of digging and comparing, I finally narrowed down my choice to two options: 1) BFGoodrich KM2 Mud Terrain or 2) Interco TrXus M/T Mud Terrain.

The KM2′s reputation for being a great all-around mud tire is quite prevalent among the online communities – so much so that it’s difficult to find anything negative about this tire. The Interco TrXus MT, while not nearly as popularized, has an even better reputation for grip and performance under virtually all conditions. From a pure cost standpoint, both tire models come in at roughly the same price point, but final delivery cost can vary depending on the vendor. When it comes to product stock and availability, the KM2s are the clear winner as BFGoodrich is a much larger operation than Interco and their tires are typically more widely distributed and more vast in number. Interco, as it turns out, only produces a limited amount of certain tire models and will not produce any more until there is a large demand. This makes locating and purchasing their tires a lot more difficult. The number of Interco vendors is also much more limited compared to the number of vendors that stock the BFG brand.

In terms of overall performance, the one negative comment about the KM2s that cropped up pretty regularly, was that performance in slushy or deep rain conditions left a lot to be desired – to the point where driving became a bit precarious. The TrXus MTs on the other hand, got very high marks for grip, particularly when it came to traction under wet and icy conditions. This notable difference in traction is most likely due to a difference in compound density, as well as factory siping, or the lack thereof in the case of the KM2s. The KM2s appear to be constructed from a much harder rubber compound than the TrXus MT. This will ultimately translate to longer tread life but carries the downfall of reduced traction in slippery conditions (when compared to softer compounds). The KM2s also lack any siping from the factory whereas Interco claims the TrXus design includes “more siping than any other mud terrain on the market.”  So although the TrXus MTs will wear more quickly than the KM2s, their reputation for performance under slippery circumstances was considerably better. Based on consumer testimonials, the KM2s appear to last around 40-50k miles whereas the highest number I saw quoted for the TrXus was around 30k miles. So the KM2s will net you about 50 percent longer tread life.

Two additional factors to consider are balancing and aesthetics. From what I’ve been told, BFG’s manufacturing process is more likely to produce a well-balanced tire as compared to an Interco tire. However, even though I suspect the KM2s are a bit more consistent from one tire to the next, balancing any mud-terrain tire is going to be more problematic than a comparable-sized all-terrain due to the larger lugs and increased weight. There’s also the visual appeal of each tire to consider. Both of these tires have the aggressive stance and appearance you’d expect from a mud-terrain. The KM2s remind me of the older military style tire with their large square lugs. The TrXus MTs have a slightly different tread pattern with alternating shoulder lugs and a very discernible sidewall tread. It’s difficult to rate visual appeal since it often comes down to individual preference. For me, either one would have looked great, so I’ll call this one a tie.

In the end, after considering all the various facts and opinions, my decision was pretty easy. Even though the KM2 scored slightly higher overall, my focus at this stage was on gaining the best traction possible, so I decided to go with the Interco TrXus MT in a 33×12.50R17. Of course it wasn’t until after I decided to purchase the TrXus MT that I discovered most vendors were out of stock. Luckily, when I contacted Interco to determine dates for their next production run, they were able to recommend a vendor local to my area that just happened to have five new TrXus MTs in stock. Because the vendor was local, I received five brand new tires the very next day. I initially tried using Dynabeads to balance these tires, placing 10 ounces of beads in each tire,  but there was enough inconsistency (lateral imbalance) in the tire design that the Dynabeads were unable to compensate. So I ended up dumping the beads and using traditional weight balancing instead. Like many mud-terrain tires, balancing the TrXus MTs did require quite a bit of weight. One tire in particular took almost 20 ounces before it evened out. But eventually, all five tires were completely balanced and stable. Initial road tests showed no signs of shimmy or vibration so I was very pleased.

Update @ 500 Miles

I installed these tires at 57,700 miles and after the first 500 miles there’s been no additional vibrations or shimmy – these tires ride smooth. I tried various pressures and actually found that I had the best performance by airing up to about 60lbs per tire. I experimented with various pressures ranging from 32 to 60 pounds per square inch (psi). The standard tire pressure of 32-35psi was just too squishy feeling and I experienced excess wandering as a result. The TrXus MTs are rated at a maximum pressure of 65psi but my particular wheels max out at 60 pounds so I stuck with 60psi per tire just to be on the safe side. I should point out that even at 60psi these tires still feel slightly mushy. In straight line travel, or at lower speeds, it’s not really noticeable. I tend to notice it most when changing lanes at higher speeds (excess of 60mph). I attribute this mushiness to the generally softer compound in combination with bigger lugs and larger voids. I don’t mean for this to sound critical as it’s really not an issue for me. But it is something that takes a bit of getting used to since a little more care and control must be taken while driving at higher speeds.

Update @ 3000 Miles

I’ve been running the TrXus MTs for a bit longer now and I’m still quite pleased with my decision. The mushiness issue appears to be diminishing somewhat, stabilizing more so after the first 1000 miles. One of the biggest surprises I experienced with this tire is that they’re exceptionally quiet. While they are still relatively new, the noise level even compared to my previous choice, the Nitto Terra Grapplers, is considerably less. I’ve also had multiple opportunities to test traction during rainy conditions and I have to say I’m ecstatic! Even with a torque-heavy, supercharged FJ, I have yet to lose traction on wet roads. Multiple testing areas and obstacles that used to require four-wheel drive can now be traversed entirely in two-wheel drive thanks to the aggressive lugs and sidewalls. Initial testing of the TrXus MT’s off-road performance is notably better than its Terra Grappler predecessors, providing superior grip on especially muddy and slippery trails. Further testing will be conducted in more severe conditions and I’m still in the early lifespan for this tire, but I think I can safely say that these tires were designed with grip in mind! I’m very impressed so far.

Update @ 13,000 Miles

Well it’s been 10,000 miles since the last update. I don’t have much else to report other than wear and tear has been great so far. As you can see from the photos below, I have some minor chunking on the outer lugs but that is to be expected when you run regular rock trails. The mushiness while turning at higher speeds is completely gone at this point. Since I was expecting around 30,000 miles per set, I’d say I’m doing pretty well so far. I still have 3/4 of the original tread left which means I should be able to run these tires for 40,000 miles easy. And for a soft compound mud terrain tire that’s more than I could have hoped for. I did make a slight adjustment to the air pressure recently, reducing the total pounds from 60 to 40 PSI. The ride is definitely more comfortable now but it appears to have taken a slight toll on my mileage as a result. The main reason I reduced the PSI was to gain more comfort on the pavement and I no longer require as much CO2 to refill after airing down the tires. Just for fun, I’ve included some photos to give you an idea of the current tread wear.

Update @ 17,000 Miles

With another 4,000 miles under my belt, these tires continue to impress me. Since the last update I’ve been sitting comfortably at 40 PSI with no noticeable depreciation in performance. In fact, there are two distinct advantages to a lower pressure: 1) the FJ rides much more comfortably and 2) I no longer require copious amounts of CO2 to refill them after airing down. I did notice an ever-so-slight shimmy inside the cabin recently so I decided to take the tires in to have them re-balanced. Standard procedure is to remove any old weights first before attempting to re-balance so I was unable to tell for sure if they were truly out of balance. After re-balancing I am still noticing the vibration so I suspect the tires were probably fine. The good news is that after 17,000 miles I am still sitting with 11/32 per tire. Considering I started with 19/32 brand new my estimates of a 40,000 mile life span are probably not that far off. The bad news is that I’ve now tried two different shops in an attempt to eliminate the shimmy and vibration but neither were able to completely eliminate the problem.

Update @ 35,000 Miles

Since the last update, I’ve been able to make a few more observations about the Interco TrXus Mud-Terrain tire. Firstly, and perhaps most importantly, is that these tires wear exceptionally well. At roughly 35K miles, you can see from the photos below that there is still quite a bit of tread left. Because of the tire rotations, there is a slight difference between two of the tires, but I would estimate an average of about 40 percent tread remaining.

My second observation is that these tires have unbelievable traction when they’re brand new. However, as my off-roading adventures continued over the months, I began to notice a difference in performance both on and off the road. The factory siping and soft compound make for an excellent combination when driving on wet roads. But as the tires wear and the tread depth is reduced, so too is the available traction. Off-road conditions made this particularly noticeable as there was less available tread for digging and gripping in the mud and rocks. Mind you, even at the 40 percent tread mark, these tires will still outperform an all-terrain tire. So this comment is simply an observation, not a critique. And given my past experience with other brands, I have observed the same levels of degradation with other tires as well. So I suspect this issue will arise regardless of the brand or type of tire you choose.

My third and final observation is if you can find a good shop to balance these tires when they’re new, do so and then try to avoid re-balancing them thereafter. Of course if you experience major vibrations or other balance-related issues, it will need to be addressed. In hindsight, I believe I made a mistake in having them re-balanced around the 17K mile mark. They were never the same after that since they could not be properly balanced. The TrXus M/T tires are difficult to balance when they’re brand new, but balancing once they’re worn is apparently even more difficult. And once they’re out of balance, the wear pattern disparities between each tire become even more noticeable. The end result was two tires with uneven wear which caused a lot of unnecessary vibration and annoyance. And over time, this problem became more and more noticeable. Due to the gradually worsening traction and since I didn’t want mix worn tires with new, I opted to sell the old set of tires for a drastically reduced price and set about purchasing another complete set of the same tire.

You might be wondering why I would return to the same brand when considering the issues I experienced in the more recent months. The fact is, the Interco TrXus Mud-Terrain tires is a fantastic tire. Having never owned an Interco tire, I was anticipating getting around 30K miles of life from these tires based on other reviews. As you can tell from the latest photos below (taken at approximately 35K miles), I got all that and then some. Were it not for the balancing issues, these tires would have easily achieved 40-50K miles of tread wear. The wet road traction of the TrXus Mud-Terrain is better than any other truck tire brand I’ve tried in the past. There’s simply no comparison. And their performance off-road on the rocks and in the mud was outstanding. The large tread gaps and soft compound grip and clean very well in a variety of conditions.

Since I’m now running a second set of the TrXus Mud-Terrain tires, I’ll be sure and update this review if I experience any notable differences in performance or wear. But for now, I’ll conclude this article and consider the review series officially complete. If you’re looking for a mud-terrain tire that performs well both on and off the road, I highly recommend the Interco TrXus Mud-Terrain. Interco tires may be more difficult to find and not as popular as some of the larger tire manufacturing companies, but in my opinion, you won’t find a much better tire on the market that will offer this level of performance both on and off the pavement.

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Up until recently, my trips to Rausch have been based on larger, sponsored events. These types of events are a lot of fun, with a large number of participants and even prizes and a dinner at the end. But there are some downsides to this type of arrangement. The sheer number of participants means that each group will contain an average of six to eight vehicles. Overall, this means a lot more vehicles on the trails which increases the likelihood of having to wait for one or more groups to complete a particular trail section. Because Rausch Creek is fairly large in scale, this is not typically a problem. But it does happen on occasion. A second down side to sponsored events is that they are often vehicle-specific in nature. While most of the events I’ve attended in the past are completely open to other vehicle brands, it is not well advertised and many folks are still unwilling to attend because they would feel out of place.  It is for these reasons, primarily, that I decided to organize the Rudimentary Rausch Creek Invitational.

I had been looking for an excuse to get together with a few friends and travel up to Rausch Creek to run trails as a small group of mixed vehicles. I’d been talking about it for several months before I was able to finally get everyone organized and coordinated for a mid-May trail run. The would-be crew of friends consisted of Chris and Paul in a 2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser, Troy and Anna in a 2007 Nissan Xterra, and a long-time friend of mine, Dean, riding solo in his 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon edition. I, of course, was also in attendance with my semi-modified 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser. The 2009 FJ and the Xterra were both completely stock with the exception of upgraded tires. The 2009 FJ was running BFGoodrich T/A KO all-terrains and the Xterra had recently invested in a set of Goodyear Dura-Tracs. The Jeep had a couple of skids for the rear differential and the evaporation canister but was otherwise completely stock. Although to be completely fair, the Rubicon editions come with front/rear solid axles and lockers, 4:1 low gears and a swaybar disconnect. On top of that, Dean has a fair amount of off-roading experience as well, so the Jeep would have a bit of advantage over the other two. Excluding myself, none of the other vehicles had any type of lift installed and skids for the FJ and Xterra were limited to the thin sheet metal skids offered from the factory. Because of the limited experience and even more limited mods, our plan was to stick with green-rated trails in order to avoid any unnecessary damage to the vehicles. Well, that was our plan anyway.

We arrived at RCORP around nine o’clock in the morning and proceeded to register for park access, memberships, etc. The XTerra and myself decided to air down our tires while the Jeep and other FJ opted not to. The front office provides all park visitors with a detailed map that outlines all the various trails, color-coded based on difficulty level. So we laid out an informal plan to ride several green legs out of the park – trails that would lead us to the outer portions of the park and even more green trails. With gear secured, tires deflated, and maps in hand, we headed out of the park, excited to hit the trails. Looking back now, I believe that’s when the general enthusiasm piqued because not long after we left the main staging area, we were confronted with a green trail that was truly boulder-iffic!

I’d like to state for the record, that it was never my intention to mislead any of the attendees as to what they were getting themselves into. Having been to Rausch multiple times in the past, I was completely at ease during the first leg of the trails. But apparently my version of “green-rated” did not align with the expectations of the other drivers. Over the course of multiple runs now, I’ve spent a lot of time and money in mods that not only enhance performance, but also add a significant amount of protection to the underside of my vehicle. I’ve become so accustomed to hearing the sound of metal on rock that it barely fazes me nowadays. To the new arrivals, however, it was more than a little unpleasant, and understandably so. Without the knowledge that their vehicles’ under-components were safe and secure behind thick steel plating, these sounds became the audible manifestation of ensuing damage from below.

We made it through the first section (which was by far the worst conditions we would see all day), pulled over to the side of the trail, and got out to inspect for damage. To everyone’s surprise the only real damage was to one of the XTerra’s nerf bars, displayed in the form of a dent and crease to the outside tube. We debated about removing the bars in order to avoid them getting pushed further into the rocker panels but it was decided that they would be better left in place to serve at least some protection. As a group we also discussed the meaning of “green-rated” and I did my best to apologize for any mis-representation on my part. After some brief discussion it became clear that their version of “green-rated” was what most folks refer to as a “fire road”. These roads are paved with either dirt or gravel and are generally travel-able even by car or other two-wheel-drive vehicles. For those unfamiliar with RCORP’s rating system, please don’t make this same mistake. A “green-rated” trail is the easiest rating that Rausch assigns to its trails. This is true. But this is an off-road park designed to provide drivers with courses and trails that are both fun and challenging. There are some sections of trail that would be considered fire road, but there are plenty more trails that are much, much worse. I think Dean probably summed it up best in the aftermath when he stated,

“All participants must understand that lift kits, oversized, off-road tires, skid plates, winches and other such recovery gear aren’t just for show and that there is a possibility for real damage to occur to their vehicles – even on GREEN trails.“

Hindsight being what it is, I realize now that I failed my friends in a major way, intentional or otherwise. From the beginning, I wanted the trip to go well in order to share at least some of what I myself have experienced on previous excursions. Unfortunately, that first leg of the trip left the folks in the XTerra and the other FJ a bit disheartened. Despite a rather bumpy start, however, we managed to find quite a few additional trails that were a bit more in line with their version of green. Sadly, we bypassed a good portion of trails because of the potential for damage, but I did manage to convince them to at least try a fun portion of a trail labeled simply as “J”. Upon first glance, it looks pretty rough for a green trail, but I decided to show them first by running my FJ through it so they could decide for themselves. Dean followed up shortly afterward in his Jeep. Surprisingly, after seeing both of us go through with relative ease, both Troy (XTerra) and Chris (FJ) were willing to give it a try. All it took was a little bit of spotting and they both made it through without a single scratch or dent. We even got a couple photos of them doing a small wheel stand in the process. Seeing the grins on their faces after making it through the first section of “J” was probably the best part of the whole trip for me.

The rest of the day continued without any further damage. Dean and I got a few opportunities to branch off the main trail to hit some slightly more challenging sections. There were a few sections of green trail, to include a deep rutted stretch along “H” trail that even allowed us to briefly make use of our lockers. And for many sections like this one, there was usually a bypass route, providing an alternative path for vehicles with less protection. All in all, I’d say we had fun. From what I’ve been told, Troy will be joining us again in the near future once he’s had a chance to add some belly skids and rock rails (sliders) to protect the rocker panels. I’m not sure about Chris and Paul at this point, but I’m hopeful. If nothing else, they were at least willing to give it a try which is a lot more than some folks. Dean and I are planning to return some time in June for another informal run but plans are still up in the air for the time being. Between work and family life, trips like these don’t happen nearly as often as we’d like. I’m sincerely thankful for good friends and for the opportunities we have to spend time with one another. I hope to experience many more trips like this in the future.

One of the primary advantages to the TRD supercharger is that it’s completely covered by factory warranty. The caveat to this is that you must have a Toyota service technician perform the upgrade which means no do-it-yourself installations. The URD supercharger system is not covered under factory warranty – in fact it will no doubt void your factory warranty completely, or at least the drive-train portion of it. But the URD has the advantage of providing a significant increase in both horsepower and torque, much more so than the comparable TRD system. So if you’re looking purely for speed and top-rated performance, there’s no question that URD should be your first choice.

The TRD supercharger system is a Roots-style supercharger produced by Eaton, whereas the URD model uses a centrifugal Rotrex blower design. I’m still in the process of learning all the differences between these two systems, as well as the contrast between superchargers and turbochargers. Since there are currently no readily-available turbo solutions for the FJ Cruiser, I’ll focus this article on superchargers for the moment. The information provided below is based purely on my own research so please don’t consider me an expert in the field. The following data is simply a synopsis of what I picked up when I was researching and comparing the two styles in order to determine which one would better fit my personal requirements.

Our first competitor is the Roots-style supercharger, which has been around since the mid-1800′s, although according to sources, it wasn’t employed for use in engines until much later.  These superchargers are known to be much less efficient than the more modern centrifugal models, but are also much simpler in their design and operation. If my research is correct, they also deliver better low-end torque more quickly than the centrifugal units, which experience much greater lag time when building boost – similar to a turbo. The longevity and simplicity of the Roots-style units allows them to be produced at a much lower price point than the Rotrex models which makes them a more popular choice for those consumers who are trying to stretch their modding funds.

The opposition to the Roots-style comes in the form of a centrifugal-style supercharger, more specifically the Rotrex design. The primary advantage to the Rotrex unit comes in the form of  something called “adiabatic efficiency”, a term used to describe an air compressor’s ability to compress air without increasing air-charge temperature.  As with any engine, lower air temps allow for greater compression and increased volume. This allows the engine to ingest more air (thus increasing the fuel intake as well), which will ultimately equal more power. The Roots-style superchargers average about a 40-50 percent adiabatic efficiency rating whereas the typical centrifugal units come in around 60-65 percent. The Rotrex design, however, claims even higher numbers, stating they’re able to achieve adiabatic efficiency levels of 80 percent or more. The internal design of the Rotrex units also give them the added advantage of reduced noise levels versus the Roots-style units which emit a very audible “whine” at higher RPMs. For many enthusiasts, this last aspect would actually be considered a disadvantage since most gear heads prefer to hear audible proof of the power within. But the lack of noise in no way translates to poor output. The top end Rotrex superchargers can achieve much greater performance numbers than the Roots-style units could ever hope to reach. So for those looking for the ultimate power mod, a Rotrex supercharger should be the clear winner.

All in all, both designs have strong points and weak points. In this case, we are looking more specifically at the TRD vs URD units available for the FJ Cruiser. The above comparisons still apply but there are a few other manufacturer-specific factors to consider to make this battle a bit more equitable. Baseline price for the URD model is going to push the $6000 range, and that’s just for the supercharger parts. You will either need the expertise to install it yourself, or you’re looking at another $1000 or more in installation costs. In addition, the higher-performance output of the URD unit will require additional upgrades to other components, such as brakes, transmission, gears or more. The URD brings a lot of power to the table, but there’s a price to pay for adding that much horsepower and torque to a stock vehicle like the FJ Cruiser. The TRD model, on the other hand, comes in at a much lower price point, sitting around $3800 for a complete supercharger kit. Installation costs would be roughly the same, but no additional upgrades are required to other components. The TRD model is quite capable when it comes to adding power to the FJ. But the power added is still well within the specs and capabilities of the stock components. This not only reduces costs (since additional upgrades are not required), but allows Toyota to offer full factory warranty coverage for all TRD superchargers installed by a certified Toyota technician. Lastly, although hardly a deal breaker as it’s simply my own personal opinion, the aesthetic design of the TRD model is much more impressive and stylistically appealing than that of the URD model.

In the end, for my particular needs, I opted for the TRD, Roots-style supercharger, for all the pros mentioned above – price, warranty, low-end torque and cosmetic appeal. All were factors when considering which one worked better for my needs. I’ve never driven a URD-equipped FJ so I really can’t compare it to the TRD’s performance. But I can say that for a vehicle that weights almost 5000 pounds, the TRD supercharger was well worth the purchase price. It’s not going to qualify at the track any time soon, but it adds a significant amount of boost to a vehicle whose performance had slowly been waning over three years of ownership. The more equipment bolted on or carried within translated to reduced performance – a reduction that was becoming more and more apparent over time. This is one of my favorite mods and if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn’t hesitate to invest in a supercharger solution. And although the URD units are nice, I believe I’d choose the TRD again as well. It just seems to be the better option and the best overall compromise for my purposes.

Since I was adding forced induction to the list of performance mods, I decided I might help things along a bit by replacing the stock air box with a higher-flow, cold air intake (CAI). Although the stock air box is technically qualified as a CAI, the flow is somewhat restricted compared to some of the aftermarket solutions. There are multiple options available for aftermarket intakes but based on popular reviews as well as aesthetics, I selected the TRD CAI. This intake comes with all the parts required for installation, including an oil-based, high-flow filter. Having followed the research and statistics of oil-based filters over the years, I have to tell you, I’m not a big fan. There’s simply too much variance in air flow during usage, resulting in either too much restriction or not enough filtration. Luckily, AFE offers a composite, dry-flow filter in the same size. The Pro-Dry S, is comprised of a composite media and does not require any oiling whatsoever. These filters are even washable, allowing them to be re-used just like an oiled filter.

To save on installation costs, I decided to order the TRD CAI kit and swapped out the stock air box myself. All parts and detailed instructions are included, making this one of the quickest and easiest modifications to date. I had the old box out and the new CAI installed in less than 30 minutes. Instead of using the oiled filter provided, I installed the Pro-Dry S filter in its place. Once installed I decided to test everything out. At idle there was very little difference in sound. However under partial or wide open throttle (WOT), there was a noticeable improvement, producing a nice throaty growl from the exhaust.

It should be noted that some dealerships do not support the use of a TRD CAI in tandem with the TRD supercharger and have actually refused to perform the supercharger installation if one is installed. This is strictly for legal (READ: EPA) reasons since it’s been proven again and again that both these items work perfectly fine together. If you are looking to add a dealer-installed TRD supercharger and your local dealer is hesitant due to the presence of a CAI, I would suggest finding a different dealer. Another option is to re-install your original air box temporarily, wait until after the supercharger is installed, and then re-install the CAI.

If you’re looking for a great deal on a TRD supercharger, I recommend ordering the parts through TRDParts4U.com. You can pick up your TRD supercharger components, your TRD cold air intake, and your FJ Cruiser supercharger fit kit all at once. They often sell well below the MSRP which means their prices are generally quite a bit lower than what you’ll find through your local dealer. Since I don’t have the expertise for this type of installation and I wanted the parts and labor covered under factory warranty, I opted to have my local Toyota dealer perform the install. Once the parts arrived, I simply scheduled an appointment to have the work done. It was an all day job and I believe they charged me for 8-9 hours of labor with an out-the-door cost of around $900, but labor costs will most likely vary depending on the individual dealer.

To give you an idea as to the performance increase, I’ve listed the before and after statistics below. The numbers listed “at crank” are based on Toyota’s advertised specs. The other set of numbers is based on the more realistic “rear wheel” performance. These numbers were obtained by running the FJ on a dynamometer or “dyno” as it’s known in the industry. Comparing the two sets of numbers, there was an overall increase of 79 horsepower and 69 foot pounds of torque. Based on the advertised numbers at crank, it would appear that Toyota is hedging on the low side of the numbers. A more realistic assessment would around 318 horsepower and 347 foot pounds of torque at the crank. But even with the advertised numbers, it’s still not too shabby.

UPDATE:

There’s not much to tell really. Since the TRD cold air intake and supercharger were installed almost a year ago, I’ve had no significant issues with either component and the performance benefits have been amazing. While I can still feel my trailer when towing, the response while pulling is significantly better with the supercharger. If I had it to do all over again, I would not hesitate to add a supercharger. If anything, I would probably add it much sooner. As far as TRD vs URD goes, I believe my decision would be the same. The TRD unit just fits my needs better and knowing that it’s all covered by factory warranty provides great peace of mind.

The next time you end up frustrated because of limited funds, try using the extra time on your hands to learn something new about your vehicle. Pull out the owner’s manual, if you haven’t already, and scan through it. You might be surprised to discover just how complex vehicles are nowadays. Look through the maintenance guide, if one was included, to determine if there are services that you might be able to do yourself. In my experience, performing regular maintenance on your vehicle can provide some great insight into how your car operates and what’s required to keep it up to snuff. If the owner’s manual doesn’t satisfy those urges, try the Internet. There are a lot of great resources online these days that will allow you to learn more about your vehicle. Online forums and communities dedicated to specific platforms or manufactures can be a great way to learn more about your vehicle as well as a method for meeting others who may have similar interests or questions about your vehicle type. If sitting in front of a computer isn’t your idea of vehicular bonding, then perhaps a good spit and polish session is in order. Detailing your vehicle, inside and out, can take several hours depending on the vehicle type, but in my opinion, it’s time well spent. Not only do you get to know all the various nooks and crannies of your car, but a well-maintained vehicle will last longer and run better for your efforts.

Now please don’t  misunderstand the above suggestions. Even vehicle maintenance will require some monetary investment, be it for soap and water or oil and filters.  But as a general rule, spending time learning about your vehicle and performing as much of the work yourself can save you a significant amount of cash – cash that can be better spent on other mods. For those folks with a bottomless pocket, it’s easy to throw every upgrade under the sun at their vehicle in one sitting. And this may sound like a great deal, but often the results are far less exemplary than you might expect. Limited funding means really, REALLY prioritizing your mod list. Without a constant flow of funds, you typically end up with more time between modifications. This extra time has two main benefits: a) you have more time to research and select the perfect components for your next mod, b) you have more time to stow away the extra cash required for these upgrades.  Reduced cash flow also means you’re less likely to blow hard-earned money on unnecessary or frivolous upgrades.  Performing the upgrades themselves in whole or in part can also save modders some money. This approach has the added benefit of knowledge gained from the work performed (at least for those unfamiliar with the task required). In the end, for me, the best part about taking the slow-paced upgrade path is that it allows me to enjoy and savor the experience for that much longer since it essentially becomes a long-term hobby. Just remember that you should be enjoying the modding process, not lamenting it.

Realizing that I required a better solution to this problem, my next thought headed to snow chains. As I mentioned in the previous traction-related article, the use of studded tires in Maryland is prohibited. Using snow chains during inclement weather, however, is perfectly legal. Since I didn’t currently own a set of chains, I began searching the Internet, in hopes of finding a set of chains that not only fit my over-sized tires, but ones that were sturdy enough to endure deep snow and mud conditions. My research led me to the “Grip 4×4″ chains, manufactured by a German company known as RUD.  Among other positive reviews, these chains were personally recommended by Bill Burke, an internationally known and well-respected off-roading spokesman and trainer. Based on these reviews and recommendations, I decided to give them a shot. For my current tire size, a 295/70R17 Nitto Terra Grappler, I ordered one set of model number 2533, the largest size offered in the Grip 4×4 series.

On a brief side note, I should point out that if you are looking for a set of snow chains, it’s best to purchase them well ahead of time. I discovered, nearly too late, that finding snow chains toward the end of the winter season is next to impossible. Snow chains, like swim wear and pumpkins, are apparently considered a seasonal item. I happened to luck out and find one set left, through an online retailer. But I was told that if they hadn’t been available, I would have been looking at September at the earliest to see a set. So if you don’t currently have a set of chains and foresee yourself needing a set, I highly recommend picking them up late fall or early winter.  Once suppliers run out, they’re usually out until the next season rolls around. Thanks to some quick shipping, I received my RUD Grip 4×4 chains less than three days later.

NOTE: Per the FJ Cruiser’s operation manual, chains are only to be used on the rear wheels, not the front. My assumption is that the space tolerances in the front, given the various independent suspension components, are simply too tight to accommodate a set of chains.

Round One:

Even though the snow had settled some since the original storms, there was still plenty left on the ground for testing purposes. In addition to the chains themselves, RUD also supplies a handy tote bag to store the chains, along with a set of laminated instructions for installation. I removed the chains from the bag, along with the instructions and promptly began the installation process. Thanks to the detailed instruction sheet, I had both chains installed in less than 15 minutes, and proceeded slowly out of the garage to begin my testing. These particular chains have an added advantage since they can be installed without moving the vehicle. However, I recommend driving a very short distance and then stopping to re-adjust the tension straps since the chains are still somewhat loose after installation.

The back pasture behind our house which was still blanketed with significant snowfall, so I decided to use that area as my proving grounds. Having done this several times before (without chains), I decided to place the transfer case in 4-wheel-drive, low gear, in hopes of improving my odds. I slowly eased the FJ into the nearest drift. Sadly, I only made it about 15 feet before I began to slip significantly. Sensing that I was losing forward momentum, I urged it forward with a bit more gas, at which point the rear tires simply began to spin and dig. In the FJ’s defense, the snow had languished for well over a week, turning any remaining powder to mushy, slushy ice. So effectively, the FJ was attempting to push its way through more than a foot of well-packed “slurpee.”  It was an exercise in frustration to say the least. But I have to give credit where it’s due. The chains continued to dig as long as I gave it gas. In fact, they dug to the point where the rear of the FJ was now sitting 6-8 inches lower than the front.

I placed the FJ in reverse and with a steady flow of gas, it began to inch its way back towards the house. However, before it reached its destination, the tires began to slip and spin again. I engaged Active Traction Control (A-Trac) but it made no difference. Engaging the rear locker also met with no results. So I decided to give it a little more gas and see if I could get enough traction to pull myself out. More gas meant more spinning but it also resulted in a slight backwards creep – I was moving again. So I gave it a little more gas and the FJ slowly began creeping backwards, spinning and digging with the rear tires, but gaining a little momentum with each passing second. This continued until the FJ eventually gained the upper hand and began moving without slipping.

My enthusiasm was short-lived, however, when I reached the garage only to discover that the passenger-side chain was hanging limply from the tire. In the wake of excess gas and wheel spin, the rubber tensioner on the outer portion of the chains had simply given up the ghost, tearing itself in half as a result of too much strain. The lack of tension on the outer ring caused the entire assembly to fall inwards, looping itself lifelessly around the rear axle. I’d like to state up front, that excess gas is not my typical approach to traversing an obstacle. I much prefer to approach each obstacle with slow, even control, which means using as little gas as possible. By using the slow approach, I suspect that the rubber tension strap would have maintained its position without damage.

But while my extraction technique may have proved too aggressive, I feel the need to point out that the RUD Grip chains are rated for more than just snow. They are also designed to be used in mud – a harsh and abrasive environment that is bound to contain large combinations of sand, stone, rock, stumps, roots and other debris. It’s also an environment where (despite the tread lightly motto), significant churning is not uncommon in order to free one’s self from slippery obstacles. I have no complaints about the chains themselves, which appear to be very well designed and seemingly quite sturdy. But using a thin rubber bungie for a tension strap makes me wonder if the manufacturer was truly considering the environments these chains would witness.

Rather than send the chains back, I began devising a plan to replace the rubber tension strap with a sturdier alternative. Since I still required tension and flexibility, the first item that came to mind was a metal spring.  The original rubber bungie came molded with two metal hooks in each end. I cut away the remaining rubber and extracted both hooks. Then I picked up an assortment of springs from the local hardware store, attempting to find a set with a small diameter but sufficient resistance to maintain the chain’s position. Without a fish scale or other tension measuring device, it was difficult to determine how much resistance the original rubber straps provided. I suspect that during normal rolling conditions, the original strap would have held up fine. But during excess wheel spin, the forces applied were clearly increased, so the replacement spring would obviously need to exceed the limitations of the original strap.

Round Two:

It took me over a week, but I finally got around to assembling the reconstructed chains and springs. The images that follow show both of the original rubber tension straps (good and broken). Using a combination of wire snips and a box knife, I cut away the original rubber strap and extracted the metal hooks from each end. I then replaced the rubber strap on both chains with a metal spring and re-attached the metal hooks. Without knowing the amount of tension applied to these straps during wheel spin, I was left with some guess work when it came to selecting springs. I managed to locate a set with a small enough diameter so as to not interfere with the tire, but in so doing, the springs were only rated for a bit over 10 pounds a piece. But I figured I’d give them a try and see how well they performed.

It only took a few minutes to re-mount the chains and I was off for round two. The depth of the snow was now less than a foot but the consistency was still pretty much slush. Since the driveway area was now bare pavement thanks to a few sunny days, I decided to approach the snowy hill in reverse this time, assuming it would make for an easier extraction if I got stuck. Once again, the FJ only managed to gain about 12 feet of ground before momentum was lost and wheel spin began. I decided to use the “gas” approach again, steadily increasing the throttle and wheel spin until I started creeping backwards again.

Round two of testing came to an audible and startling halt as an unidentified object of significant size and/or speed smacked into the underside of the FJ. I placed the FJ in drive and pulled forward back onto the pavement where I quickly discovered that the driver’s side spring and hook assembly had dislodged itself from the chains and shot forward into the unknown. I returned to the scene and spent quite some time scanning the ground for any remnants but the evidence had simply vanished. I guess it was safe to say that I needed springs with greater resistance. Without significant resistance, the springs also became overextended, losing tension and the spring loops that held the hooks in place became distended as well. So now, in addition to needing some heavier-duty springs, I also needed a way to attach the hooks to avoid potential separation.

Round Three:

With the one exception in the Vermont mountains, I’ve not experienced significant slippage in mud thus far. I suspect it’s because most of the trails and mud holes I’ve seen up till now have been on a relatively level plain. The incident in Vermont was based on a combination of mud, sand, tree roots and a rather serious incline. It is my belief that had the FJ been equipped with a good set of mud terrain tires, it would have succeeded in overcoming this obstacle. In other words, chains would not have been required.

Further analysis of the RUD chain design also has me thinking that perhaps a tension strap is not required. I am considering two possible options for the next revision: either using a much heavier-duty spring assembly with welded hooks (to prevent separation from the spring) or eliminating the spring portion altogether and replacing it with a heavy-duty carabiner or other type of closed hooking mechanism. This second option may not put as much tension on the outer chain loop, but as long as it can withstand the stress during wheel spin, it may prove to be the better of the two options.

So for now, I’m reserving final judgment on the performance of these chains until such time as I can use them without them falling off the tire. I can say, that with the exception of the weak rubber tension strap, these chains are very well designed and rugged enough, I believe, to survive both mud and snow as advertised. And for daily travel across hard-packed snow and ice, I believe the chains would perform quite well in their stock condition. But I think I’ve effectively proven that the tension created during excess wheel spin is simply too much for the current design to handle without breakage.

Unfortunately, I haven’t had an opportunity to rebuild the chains as of yet and very little snow remains at this point. Due to the resulting failure of round two, I am also now short one of the original hooks. I’m hoping that once the snow has disappeared completely, I’ll be able to successfully locate the lost spring and hook assembly, but by then, my icy test environment will effectively be gone as well. The back pasture area is completely grassed so a mud hole would have to be created for further testing. But even with an available slop pit nearby, I don’t foresee the need for chains outside the deep snow arena.

While it’s not completely unheard of for Maryland to receive snow in the March-April time frame, it is unlikely that we will see anything substantial. The weather has already taken a turn toward Spring with the average temps now in the 60s. So even if I do manage to rebuild the chains, I won’t be able to truly test them again until next Winter. I do plan to stow them on-board, however, just in case an opportunity presents itself before then. Until that day arrives, I am forced to close out this particular chapter on Traction Control. See you in the hills!

Related Links:

Traction Control: Gaining Upper Hand with Lower Foot
Traction Control: Interco TrXus MT Mud Terrain Review
RUD Grip 4×4 chain installation video
Bill Burke’s tips for using tire chains

As of early 2009, with the exception of the occasional snow storm or foray into the field behind the house, my FJ had not yet seen any real dedicated off-road use. But that all changed in April, 2009, at the FJ Northeasters Run at Rausch Creek Off-Road Park in Tremont, Pennsylvania.  As both a driver and casual observer (watching all the other FJs on the trail), I witnessed the FJ’s off-road handling first hand and can now attest to the truth behind Toyota’s ads. In my case, I stuck with green- or blue-rated trails and despite a few more challenging obstacles, the FJ handled beautifully with absolutely no issues. Upon returning to the trail head, however, we discovered that others had not been so lucky.  A few of the more courageous folks had ventured into some of the black- and purple-rated areas, in near-stock configuration, only to discover that large boulders when combined with a stock FJ is almost always a recipe for carnage.

Although not immediately obvious to the casual observer, the FJ does have its weaker areas in terms of mechanical components.  The rear suspension on the FJ is a 4-link design using coil springs, mono-tube shocks and a panhard bar.  The lower links or control arms, are comprised of a hollow, but fairly thin-walled, steel tube, while the upper arms are designed as a solid, but very thin, steel rod. Although both upper and lower links are in need of reinforcement, it’s primarily the lower links that will lead to trouble because they are much more prone to damage when attempting to clear larger obstacles such as rocks or stumps. And several of those folks returning from the black-rated trails were able to attest to this issue first hand, having bent their lower links at some point during the day’s activities.

After two-days of fun at Rausch, I returned home with some minor scratches and scuffs, but seemingly no worse for wear. But the experience did leave me thinking, pondering and prioritizing in my head, as I attempted to determine my next upgrades. The rear links were one of the first items on my list given their propensity for bending under pressure. I also discovered a leaky seal in one of the Icon coilovers as well as one of the rear shocks. The coilovers, being rebuildable, would need to be sent back to Icon headquarters whereas the shock would simply need to be replaced. Since I needed to remove the coilovers for rebuilding, I decided it might be a good time to upgrade the upper control arms (UCA) in the front suspension. Up to this point I had not experienced any of the rubbing or steering issues typically associated with the stock UCAs after lifting. But in anticipation of future wheel and tire upgrades I decided it might be beneficial to replace the stock setup with a beefier, aftermarket alternative.  After much research, I selected replacement control arms from Man-A-Fre (MAF).

Man-A-Fre has been in the business of supplying aftermarket parts for Toyota Land Cruisers for more than forty years now and provides great quality products with an equal level of customer service to stand behind them. For the rear links I went with their 4+Plus High Angle Super HD control arms. To quote MAF directly from their web site:

The 4+Plus adjustable upper control arms are made from 1-1/4”, .250” wall DOM tubing, and on the frame end feature a QA1 Endura rod end with a Teflon/Kevlar, self lubricating, self sealing liner. Rod end body is heat treated Chrome Moly, and the ball is 52100 heat treated, hard chrome plated bearing steel. Increased cross sectional thickness help give this rod end a radial static load rating of 45,000 lbs. Stainless Steel misalignment bushings finish off the adjustable end of the upper control arm . At the axle end of the control arm is a large Old Man Emu, polyurethane bushing set with a custom sleeve to help absorb road shocks and vibration instead of transferring into the chassis .

Our lower 4+Plus control arms for the FJ are made from 1-5/8”, .250” wall DOM tubing, with a self-lubricating, stainless steel, Teflon lined spherical bearing at the chassis side with a radial static load rating of 82,200 lbs. Custom Stainless Steel misalignment bushings of course. At the axle end another Old Man Emu polyurethane bushing set with 4+Plus sleeve to isolate vibration and road shock. Our 4+Plus High Angle control arms allow for resistance free articulation, and adjustment of pinion angle without compromising ride quality in a configuration designed to take heavy punishment and still perform beyond our customers’ high expectations.

For the front I selected MAF’s chrome moly UCAs which provide improved strength and increased flexibility compared to the FJ’s stock front-end suspension system. Man-A-Fre describes these UCAs as follows:

Man-A-Fre’s upper control arms are dramatically stronger than the units they replace, and offer less resistance to motion than the OEM arms. Arms are manufactured from high strength 4130 Chrome Moly tubing, with a precision manufactured spherical ball cup that holds a heat treated, stainless steel, Teflon lined spherical bearing with a radial static load rating of 104,000 lbs. and an axial load rating of 19,300 lbs. Custom stainless steel misalignment bushings for a perfect fit. Arms are precision Tig welded to extremely tight tolerances to insure proper alignment . Greasable polyurethane bushings feature grease slots cut into the interior bore to keep them lubricated.

The folks at Man-A-Fre were very friendly and helpful, and less than a week later I was sitting in front of a complete set of replacement control arms. After a quick inventory of all the pieces I noticed that I was missing the washers required to install the front UCAs. But it only took a phone call to MAF and the remaining pieces were mailed out next-day delivery.

Removal of the Icon coilovers is a relatively painless process since they are mounted using a simple three-bolt pattern on top and a single large bolt on the bottom that attaches to a bracket on the lower control arm. With both front tires removed and the front of the FJ sitting securely on jack stands I began the process of unbolting the coilovers. Note that I still had the stock upper control arms in place during this process but decided to remove the front stabilizer bar for added convenience. For those who may not already know, the Icon coilovers can be safely installed and removed in their current condition and do not require any type of spring compression tool like some older coilover setups. But if you’re planning on doing a similar swap, make sure you use some heavy straps or cables to tie the the hub and spindle assembly to the UCA, prior to removing the coilovers. This prevents the hub from drooping too low and putting excessive pressure on the CV joints.

With the top three bolts of the coilover removed, as well as the nut on the lower bolt, I did have to put a slight amount of downward pressure on the lower control arm before the lower bolt would come loose. But once it did I was able to remove the coilover by wiggling and threading the spring portion downward between the tie rod and the front of the lower control arm. Looking back now, I realize it probably would have been easier to remove the UCA first but I still managed as is.

With the coilovers now out of the way, I began the job of replacing the front UCAs with the new MAF control arms.  I had never replaced a set of UCAs before so it was a new challenge for me. The main difficulties I ran into were due to overly tight spots and not enough hands. For example, removal and re-installation of the main pivot bolt for the UCAs required me to disconnect and remove the stock battery in order to gain enough access with a wrench. Feeding this bolt through the new UCA and four separate washers simultaneously was also a bit tricky. A second pair of hands would have made this job a lot easier. Final assembly of the UCAs was actually not completed until after the coilovers were reinstalled, but when this did occur I found that tightening the main nylock nut that holds the UCA to the spindle required a tremendous amount of torque. I nearly broke my torque wrench in the process of getting it completely snug. In the end though, thanks to MAF’s online installation instructions and their assistance by phone, I finally managed to complete the installation with total success.

Despite my recent success with the front-end components, my new-found confidence was short-lived, as the rear link upgrade took a notable turn for the worse. Thanks to Toyota’s patented over-torquing policy and more than two years exposure to Maryland winters, my installation progress on the rear links came to a grinding halt in a hurry. The upper and lower links connect the frame of the FJ to the rear axle using two large bolts for each link, one in the front of the link and one in the back. The bolts in the lower links were easily removed by lifting the rear of the vehicle to relieve the pressure on the bolts. Because the vehicle shifts during this process, getting the bolt holes lined back up with the new links requires a cinch strap to pull the rear axle back inline. But eventually I managed to replace both lower links successfully. It was the front bolt on the driver’s side, upper link that proved to be my undoing.

The passenger-side upper link is more easily accessible once the rear of the FJ has been lifted and I had no problems removing the bolts in this one. But the driver’s side link sits directly above the FJ’s gas tank, making it much more difficult to reach. The position of the front bolt in this link makes it nearly impossible to get any kind of torque on the bolt head or the nut on the opposite side. In an effort to defeat my newly acquired enemy, I tried a variety of solutions ranging from an manual torque wrench, to an electric impact wrench, to an air-driven wrench that claimed to deliver nearly 600 ft/lbs of torque. None of these items did the trick. I tried repeated blasts with various de-rusting / lubricating chemicals in hopes of breaking the bolt’s hold. Nothing worked.

By the time the newly-rebuilt coilovers finally arrived almost two weeks later, I still had not succeeded in breaking this bolt loose. So I finally just gave up, reinstalled the coilovers, tightened the front UCA spindle bolts, reassembled the original stock upper links, and drove it down to my local dealership where they kindly managed to break the bolt loose in less than 3 seconds. To this day, I’m still not sure what the difference was between their tools and mine. All I cared about was that it was finally loose so I could complete what I started several weeks earlier. With the bolt removed I was finally able to replace the upper links successfully. Once again, a cinch strap and a well-applied pry bar was required to pull the rear axle inline with the mounting holes in the new links. Other than that though, it’s just a straight replacement of old link with new, two bolts a piece. I will mention that for the Man-A-Fre links specifically, they are designed so that the heim joints are to be placed towards the front of the vehicle, attached to the frame, while the end with the polyurethane bushings mounts to the brackets on the axle.

Looking back on the installation as a whole I wouldn’t rate it as being all that difficult to be honest. Labor intensive, frustrating and demoralizing? Yes. But not particularly challenging otherwise. With a set of basic instructions this type of upgrade is easily performed by any layman mechanic with some spare time and tools on their hands. My lack of familiarity with these components was the only inhibiting factor and I now realize that it’s pretty easy stuff (rear bolt aside). As I stated earlier, it did require some patience when threading the main bolt through the four washers and a tremendous amount of torque to tighten the nylock nut on the front UCAs. And the cinch strap procedure for the rear links was a bit cumbersome to deal with too. But in the end, I finished the entire job successfully. And the end result was a newly-improved FJ Cruiser and a new-found respect for mechanics that do this stuff on a daily basis.

UPDATE:

To date, I have been very happy with the performance improvements of the Man-A-Fre upper control arm in the front suspension. And from a strength standpoint, the Man-A-Fre rear links also performed above expectation. I did, however, run into some unexpected noise issues related to the heim joints and polyurethane bushings in the MAF rear links. Again, I chalk this up to being new to off-roading and the components used therein. According to Man-A-Fre, some noise is to be expected from heim joints and polyurethane bushings as a result of binding that occurs during axle flex. I guess if you’re building a rock-crawling buggy, noise is of little concern. But since the FJ is primarily my daily driver, squeaks and clunks are something I’d prefer to avoid if possible.

If you have any doubts, I am here to assure you that the Man-A-Fre upper links are noisy. Every time the rear axle twisted I experienced a series of clunks, squeaks and groans. I verified the culprits to be the MAF rear upper links after troubleshooting the issue on and off for almost a month. The movement of the lower links was minimal enough that the polyurethane bushings didn’t make a lot of noise. But the short length and design characteristics of the upper links combined with the axle twist resulted in a cacophony of sounds, none of which were pleasant. Further attempts to resolve the issue through Man-A-Fre resulted in an explanation that the noises were all completely normal for links designed with heim joints and polyurethane bushings.  In other words, there was nothing they could do as this behavior was to be expected. I guess Man-A-Fre and I have different levels of expectation.

After dealing with these noises for over two months I had finally had enough and decided to take a different approach. Chris Endres, owner of Digger Customs and the man behind Team Digger, made an outstanding offer to all forum members: rebuild the stock links by replacing the weak arms with considerably thicker 1/4″ wall DOM tubing, all at a cost that was considerably less than that of competing aftermarket link manufacturers.  The only stipulation for getting them rebuilt was that he required you to send him the original links since he needed to re-use the original ends that contained the molded bushings. This offer met with resounding success as one member after another sent off their links requesting the stronger design.

In the forums these rebuilt control arms quickly became known as Digger Links. Chris’ design not only has the advantage of substantial savings in upgrade cost, but also avoids any chance of squeaks and creaks since it reuses Toyota’s stock molded bushings. Unlike polyurethane bushings which are pressed into the link ends as two separate pieces, Toyota’s bushings are molded into the link ends as one piece, eliminating the possibility of excess movement or noise. It was a no-brainer for me. Since I already had the stock links removed, it was as simple as packing them up and sending them off to Chris for the rebuild. Chris performed the upgrade in record time and thanks to some quick return shipping, I had the newly-upgraded links in my hand less than two days after I sent them. And THAT my friends, is called great customer service!

With less than a week to prepare for the 2009 Coal Mine Cruiser Classic run at Rausch Creek, I was a bit pressed for time. But having done the job once, I was now familiar with the process. It only took an hour or so to swap out all four MAF links and replace them with the new Digger links. And I’ve had the Digger links in place ever since with absolutely no problems. I’ve repeatedly beaten the Digger links on purple- and black-rated trails at Rausch Creek with zero issues, minus the scuffs and scrapes that come with any boulder field. There’s no doubt these links are strong. Bending 1/4″ tubing is going to require a lot more pressure than my FJ will ever see in its lifetime. If you have any doubts whatsoever, just take a look at the above pictures that compare Toyota’s stock links with the rebuilt Digger links. There’s simply no comparison. If you are looking for beefy replacement links for the rear of your FJ, I can’t say enough positive things about Digger links. I don’t honestly believe you can get better bang for your buck. If you have any questions about Digger Links, feel free to contact Chris or Charity using the information below:

Chris and Charity A.K.A. Digger
Professional Extreme Rock Crawling Team
Owners of CTR Automotive Service Center
(608) 373-9750
Owners of Digger Customs
(608) 290-2343

In summary, since upgrading the FJ’s control arms, I’ve been very happy with the enhanced performance and strength. The front end tracks much better than it used to before and knowing that the back links are structurally sound enough to take a serious beating gives me great peace of mind. Also, just for clarification, I don’t want anyone to think that Man-A-Fre makes bad products. Quite the opposite. Given what I know now, I suspect that any link designed with heim joints and polyurethane bushings will tend to suffer from noise-related issues. There is a saying among the modding crowd, “race truck parts make race truck noises.” I’ve been very happy with the front UCAs from Man-A-Fre and for anyone who isn’t all that concerned about excess noise, the MAF rear links are no doubt quite capable as well. But for my money, Digger links win this contest hands down as they are a less expensive solution that, in my opinion, produces far better results.

The mid-Atlantic region was recently blanketed with what the meteorologists dubbed, “an epic winter storm.”  The fallout of this event was more than two feet of snow and ice, and now they’re calling for another 20 inches on top of that.  Marylanders are used to getting snow in the winter, but it rarely accumulates with such ferocity.  Thankfully, we were well prepared and decided it would be best spent holed up in the house for a few days rather than venture out too far.  But by mid-afternoon the next day, the snowing had ceased, leaving us with a wonderful landscape of frosty goodness.

I spent a few hours digging out the sidewalks but left the main drive for after I had a chance to play a bit with the FJ.  It’s not too often we get this much snow in one sitting so it was an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.  I threw the FJ into four-wheel-drive (4WD) high gear, and backed it out of the garage.  I felt immediate resistance but the Nitto Terra Grapplers began to dig, forcing the FJ backwards.  This continued until I was about 12 feet out of the garage and then things drew to a standstill.  Mind you, the tires were not aired down and in two feet of snow, my odds would have been much improved if they had been.  But I didn’t feel like hassling with firing up the compressor or wasting CO2 for a quick test drive so I left them at full pressure.  Shifting to 4WD low gear made no difference.  I tried various combinations of the A-Trac and rear locker only to be met with utter defeat.  So I turned off the engine and got out of the FJ to review my predicament more closely.

Upon closer inspection, it was pretty easy to tell why I was going nowhere.  With two plus feet of snow to push through, the lowest points on the vehicle, mainly the differentials, were acting is mini plows, creating a lot of resistance.  On top of that, the same flat-belly skid plates that are designed to protect my under-components, were now behaving as a giant compress, packing the snow into a giant wedge that would eventually result in high centering.  Since I was moving in reverse, and the snowline was above the frame rails, the snow was being forcefully compressed under the belly of the vehicle with no place to exit.  As more snow built up underneath, weight on each of the tires was slowly reduced, and likewise my traction.  With no substantial weight on the wheels, the tires began to spin, fusing the once powdery snow into perfect little ice cups under each of the tires.  It was quite the eye-opener.  I consider the belly skids to be of prime importance for most trail conditions, protecting vital components in the harsher elements.  But in these particular conditions, the skids actually proved detrimental, effectively stalling all progress.  So the question is, where do I go from here?

From a purely percentage point of view, the skids are bound to see much more trail than they will deep snow.  And even in deep snow, there may still be obstacles present that could damage belly components.  So all in all, it doesn’t make sense to remove them.  What is the solution then?  What alternate means do I have to ensure that the FJ will be fully capable when Frosty comes a-callin’?  In my own interest, I began researching again, to see if there weren’t some easy-to-implement solutions out there that would enhance the FJ’s snowshoe survival kit.

One of the first and most impressive (READ: expensive) results I discovered is a company named Arctic Trucks, based out of Reykjavík, Iceland.  This company has spent the last several decades customizing and modifying vehicles to withstand the harsh conditions of sub-zero environments.  For those of you who might have missed the Top Gear Polar Special where they traversed the Arctic Circle in a Toyota Hilux, you can view the entire episode here.  It’s over an hour long but really quite entertaining.  For a quick teaser of what an Arctic Truck vehicle can do though, check out the following video:

While my wife was unimpressed by the above, I was left awe-inspired and pumped plum-full of testosterone.  To be realistic though, it’s highly unlikely that the FJ will ever see conditions as harsh as the Arctic Circle.  Running 44″ shoes (tires) like those seen in the video would no doubt affect my mileage a bit and is obviously overkill for a vehicle that lives 80 percent of its life on the pavement.  But the modifications performed to the Toyota Hilux in the video go a long way to proving that traction is indeed possible in deep snow.  So putting the skid plate issue aside for the moment, I decided to focus on the traction element itself to see how I could improve.

As of this writing (early 2010), Maryland law prohibits residents from using studded tires on state- or county-maintained roadways.  It does not, however, prevent vehicles from using approved snow chains during emergency conditions where traction is obviously compromised.  Tire chains.  This is actually the second time that the idea of tire chains for enhanced traction has come up.  A recent trip to Vermont proved to be the FJ’s first encounter with defeat when attempting to climb a rather steep trail heading up to a friend’s mountain cabin.  The combination of incline, mud, tree roots and loose sandy gravel proved to be too much for the Terra Grapplers to handle.  Clearly this was not the fault of the skids.  This was obviously an issue of traction, or the lack thereof.  So the snow proved to be strike number two against the Terra Grapplers.  Don’t get me wrong, for daily commuting and general off-road playtime, the Nitto Terra Grappler is an outstanding tire choice.  But the more adverse mud and snow conditions I encounter, the more I believe a more aggressive tire is in order.  And in the event that a more aggressive tread pattern doesn’t do the trick, tire chains should provide an alternative means of sinking teeth into the more slippery surfaces.

UPDATE:

I just returned from yet another snow-storming session in the FJ.  Since we’ve still got virgin snow a-plenty, I figured I’d see if airing down the tires made any significant difference in traction performance.  So I fired up the compressor and popped on the tire deflators in preparation for another round of icy fun.  A few minutes later, the tires were prepped and ready for action at an even 15psi.  Playing it cautiously I dropped into 4WD low gear and began creeping my way into drifts, reversing the moment I sensed significant slippage.  By edging into the deep areas with only one side of the vehicle, the opposite side maintained at least some semblance of traction.  I continued this pattern for several minutes, edging a bit deeper each time into new areas, gaining confidence in the process.  But my new-found faith was torn asunder when only ten minutes into this routine I found myself slipping a bit more than usual.  I had intentionally placed the passenger side into a much deeper snow drift (approximately 4 feet deep), just to see what would happen.  Not surprisingly, the FJ’s forward momentum came to a slippery halt as the tires began to spin.  All attempts to free the FJ under its own power failed.  Resignedly, I placed it in park and headed back to the garage for the snow shovel.

Upon my return, the shovel began to once again uncover compelling evidence that the skid plates were serving as instant igloo generators, packing the snow to the point where the shovel had a difficult time breaking the outer surface.  In this particular instance, the front passenger corner was well buried but the rear differential was almost completely free of snow or obstacles.  The combination of deep snow on the passenger side and the snow packed so tightly under the belly of the vehicle was a death toll to any movement other than the spinning of tires.  Not the best of news but at least I’m learning the FJ’s limitations in its current state.

Unfortunately, at this time, I don’t have a great solution to this problem.  For the short- and most likely long-term, the BudBuilt skids will remain in place.  I like the protection gained from their silent strength.  In the long term, I’d like to design an add-on piece, a specialty snow skid of sorts, that would enable the FJ to more easily traverse deep snow conditions.  It wouldn’t necessarily replace the current skids, but bolt directly to them.  I do have a few ideas, some of which I’ve already shared with Bud.  And maybe some day one of these ideas will make it past the story board stage.  I’ll be sure and post up if that happens.

I do have plans to upgrade the Nitto Terra Grapplers some time in the near future, but the deep snow will undoubtedly be long gone by then.  And given Maryland’s propensity for “epic storms”, I don’t know that I’ll be able to easily recreate these test conditions again any time soon.  Further testing may occur by traveling northward, but this puts me in a bit more of a bind since it’s no longer a controlled testing environment.  It’s the real deal.  My hope is that my next tire choice will provide that much-needed traction that I’ve been missing in the more slippery terrain, while still maintaining the great road manners I’ve come to appreciate with the Terra Grapplers.  Once I get a chance to test out the new shoes, I’ll add another update to this entry or create a new entry and link to it from here.

UPDATE #2:

Follow-up testing with chains begins…

Registration forms are not yet online but should be up shortly for anyone interested.  Accommodations for the area can be scarce if you wait until the last minute so I highly suggest researching your options now.  The folks at Rausch Creek have made it pretty easy by providing a nice compilation of nearby campgrounds and hotels.  So don’t wait.  Make those reservations now!

For those not in the know, this event is focused on gathering Toyota FJ Cruiser owners together for a three-day off-roading extravaganza at Rausch Creek Offroad Park in Tremont, Pennsylvania.  Although the majority of vehicles will be FJ Cruisers, any and all platforms are welcome to join in the fun.  Rausch Creek is a great off-roading playground with more than 1700 acres of trails, rocks, mud and water holes.  The trail ratings range from very mild (green) to hard-core (black/red), so there’s plenty of fun to be had regardless of your experience level.

Last year’s event hosted 85 rigs and more than 150 registered participants, and proved to be a fantastic success and a great way to meet other folks with similar interests.  And I have a sneaking suspicion that this year’s event will be even bigger!   On somewhat of a side note, if you are a parts vendor, big or small, this year’s hosts are looking for sponsors.  If you currently offer parts for the FJ Cruiser platform, this is a great opportunity to get your product seen by those that could use it most.

I’ll post an update to this entry once the registration information is available.  But I wanted to get the word out early in case some of you may not have heard.  If you have even the slightest bit of interest in participating, I would highly encourage you to register once the forms are available.  This is a great opportunity to meet new folks and for those new to the sport, an opportunity to see just how capable your vehicle is in the off-road world.  See you on the trails!

UPDATE:

The official registration form for the 3rd Annual Northeast Run is now online!  Anyone even remotely interested in this event should register now.  Trust me, you won’t regret it.  Check out the link above for hotels and camp grounds in the area.  For general information about the event or to register for the event itself and be eligible for lots of great prizes and other swag, check out the links below.

3rd Annual Northeast Run General Info Page

3rd Annual Northeast Run Registration Form

Despite my mad-dash efforts to complete all mods prior to our first trip to Rausch Creek, I was not able to complete everything I had planned.  With some advanced planning, however, I did make remarkable progress towards the end goal, acquiring and installing a host of different options that would make the FJ a bit more capable and the passengers a bit safer.  In preparation for a winch and other accessories, I upgraded the electrical system using the Dirty Parts Dual Battery Kit.  Having the new Icon suspension now in place, meant ride quality was dramatically improved.  The new Nitto Terra grapplers would not only give me additional ground clearance beyond that of the Icon lift, but better traction in the mud and rocky areas too.  To increase traction further, I planned to air down the tires prior to hitting the trails.  Pressure restoration would be completed with my newly installed Powertank setup.  Interior cargo items were now more easily secured using the Springtail Solutions MPAC rack systems and the Gobi ladder and roof rack were also available for any additional cargo that wouldn’t easily fit into the rear of the FJ.  And last, but most certainly not least, the BudBuilt skids were now affixed in rock-solid position, awaiting the inevitable clashing of rocks, stumps and whatever else happened to obstruct our path.

With the exterior prepared, I then focused my efforts on the interior and its collection of items centered around recovery and safety.  With the help of my wife, I compiled a very nice first-aid kit as well as a fire extinguisher and a few other odds and ends related to safety.  I picked up a few items from TRDParts4U, including an ARB 3″x30′ snatch strap, an ARB 10′ tree-saver strap, two 3/4 ton shackles and a large ARB-branded bag to store it all.  I also ordered a 48″ Hi-Lift X-treme Jack directly from the Hi-Lift Jack Company.  You can usually pick one up at your local farm supply store but it was easier for me to order direct from the source because I needed to purchase an off-road base extender, a handle keeper and a lift-mate as well.

Since this was my first trip I planned to stick with primarily green- and blue-rated trails, preferring to get a bit more experience under my belt prior to breaking something major.  While Rausch Creek is closer for us than for others, it’s still a good 2-3 hour trip.  I couldn’t really afford to be breaking any major components since I needed the FJ for the return trip.  Some folks trailer their rigs to events but in our case, the FJ is our primary mode of transport to and from events.  So some caution and common sense would be required while out on the trails.  This particular event was expected to last for two days in April, spanning a Friday and a Saturday weekend.  I could not have been more excited!

We had made hotel reservations ahead of time so accommodations were a breeze.  For anyone planning an overnight stay in the Tremont, Pennsylvania area, I highly recommend the services of the Hampton Inn in the nearby town of Pine Grove.  We’ve stayed there during every Rausch Creek event so far and the service has always been quite nice.  They also offer significantly-reduced rates to those attending officially-sponsored Rausch Creek activities.  I actually managed to get my wife to attend more than one event based purely on the fact that she’d get to stay at a nice hotel with a pool.  If you’re feeling the need to rough it a bit more, there are plenty of campgrounds in the local area that participate in these type of events as well.  I recommend visiting the official Rausch Creek web site for more details on lodging.

We arrived the day before the events began to ensure we had enough time to get unpacked and prepared.  Things were a bit chaotic the next morning though since many of those attending had never been to the park before.  After a few mishaps and some bad directions, we finally arrived at Rausch Creek.  This particular event was focused on the FJ Cruiser platform specifically and although there were a few outsiders attending, the bulk of the attendees were driving, or riding within, FJ Cruisers.  Seeing that many FJ Cruisers all gathered in one spot was truly a site to behold.  Modifications ranged from extreme setups designed more for buggy crawling to completely stock or very close to it.  Shortly after we arrived and registered, the organizers began to split folks up into groups, based on preferred trail ratings.  Not surprisingly, the more highly-modified rigs segregated into black- and red-rated trails while the others split between green- and blue-rated trails.  As planned, we moved into line behind one of the green-blue groups and waiting patiently for our trail guide to give the signal.

It’s nearly impossible to describe these type of events in enough detail to provide you with anything even close to what we experienced over the course of those two days.  Suffice it to say we had a fantastic trail guide who not only led us out on some really great trails, but even stopped to give participants some insight on standard recovery operations and some must-have tools to carry while off-roading.  Because many of the trails at Rausch are intersecting, the more adventurous folks (myself included) even managed to push the boundaries a bit by exploring some blue-rated trails.  Not too impressive to the long-term off-roaders perhaps, but for us newbies it was quite a bit of fun.  The best part about it for me was seeing just how capable the FJ Cruiser was in a slightly-modified condition.  I never once got stuck or hit an obstacle that was insurmountable.  Granted, the trails were not terribly difficult, but they were most certainly well beyond anything most vehicles see on a daily basis.  The two-day event left me with some new friends, some new skills, and overall elated and inspired to see what else the FJ could tackle.

Before I close, I feel the need to mention those responsible for hosting such an awesome event.  This particular event was sponsored by the FJ Northeasters group and they did a fantastic job of gathering everyone together, organizing the necessary funding, sponsors, prizes, and even a large banquet to celebrate the end of the weekend’s events.  It’s through the efforts of groups like this, that the off-roading community continues to grow and newly-initiated members such as myself have an opportunity to grow with it.

For those of you looking to attend sponsored off-roading events, a lot of the equipment requirements will depend on who’s hosting the event.  Most sanctioned off-roading events will have a list of items that must be present in or on the vehicle, prior to participation.  In fact, it’s not uncommon in the larger events for your vehicle to go through a complete inspection before the event begins.  Typical checklist items are usually aimed at vehicle and passenger safety and include things like working headlights, wipers, and brakes.  Again, many of these requirements come down to the event type and sponsors.

Since I planned to attend a variety of different events, as well as long-distance travel, I decided it would be best to be on the safe side and cover as many of the potential requirements as possible.  Because my vehicle is relatively new and in good working condition, I didn’t really have to worry much about things like headlamps and brakes.  Where I came up short was in the departments of add-on safety and recovery gear as well as some of the more general tools and supplies.  So I expanded my focus from preparing for a single, local event, to preparing for a more extensive overland adventure, a trip where the conditions were less controlled.

Based on some event requirements, and as a general rule of thumb, it is highly recommended that each vehicle carry a fire extinguisher and first-aid kit in case of an emergency.  Most people do not consider an on-board fire extinguisher to be a necessity.  Statistically, the odds of needing one are low.  But I’d much rather have one and not use it, than need one and not have it.  So this particular purchase made good common sense.  I don’t want to go into the various types of fire extinguishers at the moment since that would entail a great deal more detail.  But I highly suggest doing your research before making a final decision on which type to purchase.  Regardless of the type you choose though, for vehicle safety reasons, it’s highly recommended that you purchase a five pound unit at a minimum.  Smaller units simply don’t last long enough to do much good.

In addition to the size requirement, my particular research indicated that certain types of extinguishing agents can be very corrosive, resulting in a lot of damage to vehicle components.  Dry chemical agents will not harm components but they do tend to be extremely messy and difficult to clean up after the fact.  Halon extinguishers are both expensive and reportedly much more dangerous to passengers in an enclosed space.  There were a lot more recommendations to consider but after all my research, I ended up purchasing a HalGuard five pound extinguisher through Summit Racing.  The Halguard units use an agent that is non-corrosive and very easy to clean after the fact so it seemed like the best compromise to me.  The five pound units were also large enough to be useful yet still small enough to mount nicely on the Springtail Solutions side rack in the rear cargo area.

Next on the list was an on-board first-aid kit.  Despite my attempts at locating a complete and all-inclusive kit, I came up seriously short on this one.  There are quite a few smaller kits available but the supplies included are very minimal.  For safety reasons I wanted something that would cover most emergency scenarios, to enable someone to assist a victim, until such time as more qualified emergency personnel could arrive on the scene.  Luckily for me, I was able to enlist the services of my wife, who was EMT-qualified a few years back, and had a much better idea of what would be required in most emergency situations.  Although it may not meet everyone’s needs, the following is a list of items that she recommended for our on-board kit:

So that covers the two primary safety items in the list.  But there are quite a few additional odds and ends that I decided to add as well, just to round out the equipment load a bit more.

If you haven’t taken the time to get to know your vehicle’s electrical system, I suggest doing so.  Knowing the basics of how your vehicle operates is one of the first steps to being better prepared.  At a minimum, you should investigate any and all fuse panels throughout the vehicle.  With the amount of electrical components in today’s vehicles, a blown fuse can cause a myriad of problems.  This is easily cured however, if you carry an extra supply of fuses on board.  By inspecting your various fuse panels, you’ll know which type and size of fuses to purchase for your spare fuse kit.  I managed to find some decent prepackaged fuse kits that contained a good selection of fuses ranging from 3 amps to 30 amps, which covers most of the basic electrical components of a vehicle.  I also highly recommend carrying a set of 10-20 foot jumper cables in your vehicle at all times.  You never know when an unexpected electrical short might leave you high and dry somewhere.

In the event that you end up disabled in the darkness, having an operational flashlight stowed away can make a big difference.  Even in daylight, peering under the dash, within the engine compartment or under the vehicle itself can be difficult without the assistance of some sort of lighting.  I purchased a Maglite brand flashlight over ten years ago that still works great.  But just about any type will do.  A popular option these days is to purchase an LED flashlight since they’re typically brighter and use less energy.

A disabled vehicle will usually mean a non-moving vehicle.  If you get caught in a high-traffic area, this can be quite dangerous, especially if visibility is reduced by weather or darkness.  There are two common solutions to this problem.  The first option is to purchase road flares.  These often come in packs of two or three and are relatively inexpensive.  The second option is to purchase several triangle reflectors.  These collapsible units unfold into a triangular-shaped stand and will reflect light from any vehicles traveling in your lane.

Another piece of gear often overlooked is a lug wrench.  Although this item is typically included with most vehicles, it doesn’t get used a whole lot.  If you’ve upgraded your wheels from the factory options, be sure and check the on-board lug wrench to make sure it fits the new lug nuts.  A difference in size means it either won’t fit or will simply spin, rounding off your lug nuts in the process.  Without this item, or a comparable sized wrench, there’s no way to easily remove a wheel in the event of a flat.  If your stock wrench no longer fits, hit up your local auto parts store for one that does.  A popular option for a lot of off-roaders is known as an “X-wrench” or 4-way lug wrench.  It’s a lug wrench designed with four different sized heads on each end.  Some of the models are even collapsible, making them easier to stow away.

Speaking of flat tires, two items come to mind.  The first is a product that goes by various names, from run-flat to fix-a-flat and others.  But all of these products are designed with the same purpose in mind.  They allow a vehicle to travel short distances on a punctured tire without fear of damaging the rim or the vehicle.  I’ve never personally used any of these products but I’ve heard they can be quite useful if you don’t happen to carry a spare somewhere on the vehicle.  In more dire circumstances where the damage is more extensive, a tire repair kit can come in quite handy.  My Powertank setup came with a free ARB Tire Puncture Repair Kit.  The kit seems quite complete from what I can tell.  I have to be honest though, I’ve never actually used one of these kits before so I can’t really verify how effective this type of kit is in a real-world situation.  But it does lend some additional peace of mind in the event that I ever experience punctures to more than one tire simultaneously.

If you do happen to find yourself saddled with a flat tire and don’t have the luxury of a CO2 tank on board, a good backup is to purchase a small, portable, 12v air compressor.  Even with the CO2 on board, I still carry one of these because I never know when I might run low on CO2.  It’s a relatively inexpensive item and can make a world of difference in the event of a flat.  Even with a repair kit, your tire will most likely still be too flat to drive on safely.  A compressor can also be used to inflate various pieces of camping equipment without wasting precious CO2.  So this is another good piece of equipment to have on board.

For the more remote areas, it’s oftentimes quite handy to have a variety of methods for securing equipment in place.  This would include everything from tape, velcro, straps and twine, to larger gauge rope and carabiners.  There are a number of circumstances where these items play a key role.  Securing a tent or tarpaulin, hanging items to dry, binding items for easier storage or last-minute equipment repairs are just a few of the possible uses.  For my needs I purchased a full-sized roll of rigger’s tape (also known as duct tape), 100 feet of parachute cord, 50 feet of 1/2″ diameter rope, several aluminum carabiners and a variety of velcro strips from Army Surplus World.  There’s no perfect number or size for these items but having a basic selection of each on board means I am a little more prepared.

As a general rule, it’s also a good idea to carry a set of basic tools with you as well.  Again, there’s no perfect combination of tools that will handle every situation, but by throwing together a small selection of tools like wrenches, screw drivers, hammer, pry bar, etc, you stand a better chance of helping yourself out of a tight situation.  A great tool to add to this selection is what’s known as a universal or multi-purpose tool.  One of the most popular manufacturers is Leatherman, a company that currently offers a wide selection of universal type tools.  The Leatherman Wave is probably their best seller and for good reason.  As a combo device, it combines a lot of the basic tools that would be required not only for minor vehicle repairs, but could prove very useful in survival situations as well.  If you don’t want to spend the money on a universal tool, then I suggest at least investing in a good knife.  This can be handy for a lot of situations and like a universal tool, might make a world of difference in more desperate survival scenarios.  I picked up a Gerber 4″ fold-away model awhile back just for this reason.

Though it often gets overlooked, food and water are two very crucial items to have on board in the event of an emergency.  It’s difficult to picture ourselves in a situation so desperate that we would require rations, but if you’re planning on an extended trip of any sort, this should be one of your first priorities.  Lack of food is unlikely to kill you, but dehydration can very easily lead to dangerous complications and even death.  So even if you don’t feel the need to pack extensive food supplies, make sure you have plenty of water on board or are near to a potable water source during your travels.

The last items on my list of safety gear deal more specifically with winter weather conditions.  If you are traveling during winter months where there’s a possibility of below freezing conditions, I highly recommend stowing an extra set of warm clothes on board.  Extra gloves, hats, and coats could prove to be the difference between a successful venture and the more morbid alternative: death by hypothermia.  Okay, that’s a bit extreme perhaps, but there is definite potential for this type of outcome in colder climates.  Having a blanket or two in the vehicle can also help out quite a bit in these situations.  Carrying extra de-icer for the windshield as well as an ice scraper means better visibility during winter weather.  Lastly, carrying a small tarp can be quite useful not only in winter weather but any of the seasons.  Tarps are typically water-proof and can be used to separate us from the ground elements, or shield us from inclement weather such as rain, snow or hail.  In a dire emergency, a water-proof tarp can even be used to gather rain water for drinking.

I think that about rounds out my list for now.  I’m going to publish this to get the basic information out there, but I hope to add purchase links later on, for many of the aforementioned products to assist anyone who may be looking to put together their own set of safety gear.  Though it may not suit everyone’s purchase needs, I was quite surprised to find that many of the items I required were available through Amazon.  So if you’re looking to do a quick check on price or availability, I recommend trying there first.  That’s not to say that Amazon is the best or only place to purchase these items.  It’s just a great place to start.  Many of the items listed in the first-aid kit, for example, can also be found at your local drug store.

I’d like to close by stating that depending on the particular travel conditions, the above list may prove to be severely inadequate.  For other situations, carrying all of the above items may be considered terribly overkill.  I just wanted to cover a variety of items that you might want to consider in the event that you plan to travel.  My recommendations are based on my research and my own experiences.  The final selection is really up to your own personal preference.

Off-roading adventures tend to be a bit more demanding on a vehicle and as such, the potential for damage is much more likely.  In the event that vehicle trail repairs are required, a portable air solution can be used to power a number of specialized air tools such as an impact wrench or grinder.  This can make a huge difference in the amount time and effort required to get a vehicle back on the trail in serviceable condition.  Using air tools on the trail does have its drawbacks, however.  It all depends on the individual tool, but some of them tend to be quite greedy when it comes to air flow.  Be sure and check the cubic feet per minute (CFM) rating of any tool prior to purchasing to ensure it’s compatible with your portable air solution’s maximum supply of pressure and flow.

A secondary, and perhaps more popular, use for portable air solutions is refilling a vehicle’s tires.  For many off-road adventures, it is not uncommon for the vehicle’s tires to be intentionally aired down once the terrain becomes more challenging.  Please note that for safety reasons, you should always maintain full tire pressure (based on the tire manufacturer’s specifications) when traveling at speeds higher than 10mph.  Even with beadlocked wheels, traveling with low tire pressure at high speeds is a recipe for disaster. At low speeds, however, the advantages to airing down are many.

In slow-speed, controlled maneuvers, airing down can be highly advantageous.  Reducing the vehicle’s tire pressure will generally increase traction because the footprint of the tire is dimensionally increased.  More “rubber to the road” means a greater surface area for gaining grip.  Most off-road adventures are conducted at very low speeds and the increased traction gives drivers better control over the vehicle.  Better control will obviously reduce the chance of damage to vehicle components and increases the odds of making it past an obstacle successfully.  But what happens when the expedition heads back to the pavement?  This is where portable air solutions are ideal.

Like so many other off-roading debates, there are generally two sides to the portable air debate.  One side prefers an on-board compressor with an optional storage tank for compressed air.  The other side forgoes the compressor altogether and opts for a tank solution using compressed carbon dioxide (CO2).  The ideal option would be a combination of on-board compressor and CO2, but this can also rack up the configuration cost considerably.  So most tend to stick with either one solution or the other.  Based on the reviews and feedback from actual owners, I opted for a CO2 solution.  One of the primary reasons I elected to go with a CO2 solution was based on performance.

In an independent review, only one compressor solution ranked higher than CO2 tanks in terms of time required to refill a tire.  On average, a CO2 tank will deliver higher pounds per square inch (PSI), with a considerably higher CFM rating than that of an on-board compressor.  This increased performance does not come without cost however, as most CO2 solutions are priced higher than their compressor counterparts.  So there is a trade-off, but for my needs I preferred to pay a little more up front, knowing that I could air up quicker and run higher-end tools down the road.

After conducting my usually research, I decided to go with a CO2 solution from Powertank.  They have a long-standing reputation for quality and performance in the off-roading community and have been in the business for over a decade.  That’s not to say there aren’t other less expensive solutions available.  CO2 solutions can be had from Ultimate Air or The Source, both of whom have a great reputation as well.  I opted for a Powertank solution based on the variety of tank configurations (colors and sizes) as well as their custom high-flow regulators.  Powertank puts together some really nice CO2 packages or you can even do a custom order for specific parts if you prefer.

In the case of the FJ Cruiser, there is an ideal mounting location on the driver’s side of the rear cargo area.  The recessed area above the rear wheel well has the perfect dimensions for a 10lb Powertank solution.  But mounting the tank itself becomes a bit more challenging when you consider the weight and size of a CO2 tank.  The ten pound rating is based on the tank’s capacity for holding CO2, not the tank itself.  A 10lb Powertank, including CO2, regulator, guard, boot and mounting bracket weighs in just over 30lbs.  That may not seem like much weight but in the event of a collision or roll-over, a 30lb projectile can cause some serious damage.  So I needed to ensure the mounting location was secure.  Luckily, I had just finished installing a Springtail Solutions Heavy Duty side rack in anticipation of just this type of scenario.

UPDATE:

I’ve used the Powertank 10lb setup now on virtually every trail run I’ve made and it’s worked beautifully every time.  I am capable of airing up all four tires from ~12lbs of pressure to ~33lbs in a matter of minutes.  The time saved is a nice bonus since the last thing I want to worry about is spending 30 minutes waiting for a compressor to slowly fill each tire after a long day on the trail.  The CO2 tanks have yet another distinct advantage over a compressor scenario because they have fewer parts to wear out.  Besides the regulator, there are very few complex mechanical parts to a tank setup.  The same can not be said for a compressor setup, potentially suffering from overheating or other issues related to physical wear and tear.  A CO2 solution is also much quieter than a compressor, lacking the typical noisy chatter of a small on-board motor.  So for me, the CO2 solution is the hands-down winner.  But there are a few minor issues I’d like to point out to potential buyers looking for a CO2 solution.

Advertising is designed to sell a product.  Period.  I don’t want to point fingers at any particular vendor, but buyers should keep in mind that any quotes given for “tires filled per tank” are highly subjective.  I was greatly mislead by initial reports that a single 10lb tank of CO2 was capable of refilling 80 tires.  A gross over-estimate, but being new to the CO2 world, I bought into it hook, line and sinker.  The total number of refills from a single tank is greatly dependent on the capacity of the tank, as well as how much pressure is being added to each tire.  Some folks only drop their pressure 5-10lbs per tire, where others may lose up to 25 or 30lbs.  It depends entirely on your pressure preference as well as the type of tire you happen to run.

Some of the other minor issues are related to refills.  For those new to CO2, you can’t just take your tank down to your local Home Depot and expect them to exchange it for a full one.  Firstly, big box stores like Home Depot and Lowes don’t do CO2.  Secondly, if you pay for a custom tank setup like a Powertank, you certainly don’t want to trade in your nicely-finished, powder-coated tank for a 4-year-old dinged up aluminum shell of a model.  So you’ll need to make sure there’s someone nearby that can refill CO2 tanks.  If you’re unsure as to where to look, try a local welding supply store.  If they don’t have the ability, they can probably recommend someone nearby who does.

A 10lb fill of CO2 will usually run somewhere between $10-$20 depending on the supplier.  Most shops will default to the weight rating that is stamped on the side of the tank.  So if you’re dropping off a tank with a guard, regulator, or other accessories, make sure the shop knows the proper empty weight before filling.  I made this mistake my first few trail runs and was only getting about 7lbs of CO2 even though I was paying for 10lbs.

Tanks designed to hold compressed gas, like those used with CO2 scenarios, are regulated and must meet a minimum set of criteria to qualify for refills.  These types of tanks must undergo a certification every five years to ensure they are safe for use.  I bought my tank new so I’ve got a ways to go before I can report on this particular aspect.  But for anyone buying used tanks or piecing together their own setup, this is definitely something you want to keep in mind.  If a tank fails certification, it means it won’t hold pressure properly.  Re-certifications are put into place as a safety measure to help reduce injuries due to faulty tanks.  CO2 suppliers make note of the certification date prior to refills so if your tank is outside the certification date, they won’t fill it.  As far as I know, there is no way to repair a tank, so if a tank fails certification, you’d be looking at buying another new or used tank to replace it.

Companies like Powertank, Ultimate Air and The Source put together some very nice packages that make it quick and easy to get up and running with CO2.  If you have the money and don’t wish to hassle with piecing together a system on your own, I highly recommend taking this route.  I have, however, seen a lot of folks piece their own custom systems together using off-the-shelf parts.  They usually save more money doing this but it requires a more detailed knowledge of CO2 systems and the inherent dangers of dealing with any compressed gas.

One of the main advantages of a do-it-yourself type of setup is that you can simply exchange the tanks each time, which means no waiting 2-3 days between drop-off and pick-up.  CO2 suppliers will typically do their fills on certain days or once they receive a certain number of tanks.  This is because they have to flush the entire system once they’re done filling which means they end up bleeding 10-20lbs of CO2 into thin air.  So they generally wait until they get enough tanks to make charging the system worth their while.

At some point, I may dive in and add an on-board compressor to my setup.  I do carry a small portable compressor in the event that I run out of CO2 unexpectedly.  But as of late, I’ve given more serious consideration to purchasing a second, larger CO2 tank instead.  Given the obvious advantages (at least to me), a spare tank would mean another 20lbs of CO2, giving me the ability to run tools and refill tires that much longer.  My only difficulty with a 20lb tank is how to secure it.  As of right now, I have no way to safely lock down something that size so I’ll need to do some more research before heading down that road.

I should also point out that I spend a great deal more time researching a piece of equipment than I typically spend installing it.  The only reason I say this is to keep readers informed and aware that I’m not simply making arbitrary purchases.  I tend to take my time performing extensive product comparisons, using a combination of 3rd-party reviews and customer feedback, before I make a final decision.  It’s not an absolute guarantee, but it does help me avoid some of the more obviously bad products.  This is yet another area where I rely heavily on the FJ Cruiser Forums for consultation.  With more than 30,000 members and 80,000 threads, these forums provide some very useful insight from actual FJ and FJ-product owners.  This particular post is the first of several that will detail most of the equipment I purchased prior to our first trip to Rausch Creek Off-Road Park.

So let’s begin with mounting points for the equipment itself.  The FJ Cruiser comes equipped with multiple brackets designed for securing equipment.  The bulk of these brackets can be found in the rear cargo area, behind the passenger seats.  There are four, very solid tie-downs on the floor, as well as two additional mounting brackets on the driver’s side.  For those who opt out of the sub-woofer option, there are two more mounting brackets on the passenger side of the rear cargo area.  Lastly, there are two hanger-type hooks up near the headliner of the rear cargo area.  For general cargo all of these tie downs serve their purpose well enough.  But what about non-general cargo, more specifically, large or heavy items?

Enter the Springtail Solutions equipment racks designed specifically for the FJ Cruiser.  As the first products in our mini-review, these racks take on a rather critical role since their entire purpose is to secure all portable accessories.  Springtail Solutions is another small business that takes great pride in providing top-notch products and customer service.  Springtail’s racks are fully powder-coated prior to shipping, and include all the required mounting hardware in the box.  In addition to the racks themselves, Springtail offers a wide selection of MOLLE-style pouches to fit both their racks and a variety of other nooks and crannies within the FJ Cruiser.  They currently offer quite a few options for the FJ, but my focus was specific to the rear cargo area.

Among their offerings, Springtail offers an expansive aluminum MPAC rack for the FJ’s rear door as well as a heavy-duty steel rack for the driver’s side rear cargo area.  The rear door rack is designed to span the width of the door, but only covers the top half of the door in a standard configuration.  This leaves enough space below the primary rack to mount a secondary rack, effectively doubling the available space for accessories.  The heavy-duty side rack mounts using the existing mounting holes left after removing the stock mounting brackets.  The side rack can be mounted on either the driver or passenger side but may require some tweaking to the mounts if the passenger side is selected.

The pouches I ordered, like the racks themselves, are very sturdy and mount quickly and easily using heavy-duty nylon strips with snaps.  Springtail also offers pouches with velcro rip-away-style mounting straps to make the process of removing the pouch that much easier.  This is especially handy for equipment that needs to be readily-accessible, like a first-aid kit.  At the time I placed my order, Springtail was offering a complete FJ package that included (1) rear door rack, (1) heavy-duty side rack, and a large assortment of different pouch styles.  All mounting hardware was included as advertised and the quality of the racks was top-notch.  It only took a few days after I placed my order for the parts to arrive and I had both racks and a variety of pouches securely mounted shortly thereafter.  I’ve included some photos of the rear rack and pouches below for anyone who may be interested.

UPDATE:

After running the Springtail racks and pouches now for almost a year, I am glad to report that I’m still quite pleased with my purchase.  Both racks have held up remarkably with absolutely no issues, despite supporting numerous bags of gear.  They serve their intended purpose very well and Springtail’s available selection of pouches makes storing all those oddball items a cinch.  Plus, because of the rack’s optimal location, access to all your equipment is as simple as opening the rear hatch or door.  So if you’re in the market for a rack-mount solution for all your FJ accessories, I highly recommend giving Springtail Solutions a call.

I realize that it may not be the most comprehensive list, but so far I’ve found it to be quite useful when purchasing and preparing equipment for any type of overland adventure.  I know I can’t prepare for every possible event, but the more time I spend focused on the necessities, the better off I’ll be in the long run.  And my plan is to continue adding to the list and tweaking questions as I gain more experience in off-roading and overland travel.

When and where will my vehicle be traveling?

It seems to me that seasonal weather patterns can make a big difference in whether an overland expedition is successful or not.  By being prepared for extreme conditions, be they hot, cold, wet or other, I hope to increase my chances of a successful venture.  In addition to seasonal time frames, I also need to consider the various terrain types I expect to encounter.  Knowing, beforehand, the types of terrain my vehicle will be required to traverse, allows me to focus on equipment specifically designed for those types of obstacles.

How long will my vehicle remain at each location?

I should know the duration of the overall trip, as well as how much time I’ll be spending in each individual area.  This should be planned ahead of time if possible.  Doing so will help me to avoid any unexpected trips for supplies that I will have rationed based on time, weather or terrain conditions.

What kinds of obstacles do I expect to encounter?

This is a bit vague, I realize, since any number of unexpected conditions can result in disaster.  This question is centered on the more obvious obstacles such as adverse terrain conditions, lack of available supply stores, or a problematic mechanical or electrical system.  I would prefer to address these types of items ahead of time to help make the trip a bit less stressful.

How many travel companions and how much gear?

Traveling with companions caravan-style (multiple vehicles) means I need to account for additional required supplies, from food and water, to medical and other emergency gear.  But a caravan-style expedition also means that I can potentially rely on additional gear I might otherwise have to purchase.  My gear can likewise be shared among the other group members.

What is the experience level of those with whom I will be traveling?

I believe that knowing the capabilities of my trip-mates is another key to my success.  For a local and casual day trip with my friends, this is probably not all that important.  But for the more extended trips into remote areas, having a variety of skills on board could make a world of difference.

What are my vehicle’s weak points that could lead to breakage or other problems?

Acknowledging my vehicle’s weaknesses is not about finding its flaws.  Quite the contrary.  Being aware of potential problems means it’s easier for me to avoid obstacles that would place unwanted stress on those areas known to be problematic.  It also serves as an opportunity to upgrade these areas prior to my deployment.

How much money am I willing to spend on equipment?

Cost is, by far, one of the biggest players when purchasing gear for an expeditionary trip.  Like any other purchase, it’s up to the one holding the wallet to determine how much they are willing to spend.  My own recommendation is to buy the best quality you can afford, possibly even better than you can afford.  I purchase equipment with one primary thought in mind… my life or the lives of my family may depend on this one tool at some point in the future.  It sounds a bit over-dramatic, I realize, but there is some truth to it as well.  I always recommend purchasing high-quality equipment, tools that are designed with strength and longevity in mind.  It may cost a bit more up front, but in the long run, it may prove to be the one thing that saves my hide.

Which tools are “required” vs. simply “nice to have?”

Ah, the proverbial “must have” item.  Given my propensity for collecting tools, I’d have to say that this is one of my weakest areas.  I oftentimes find myself justifying the purchase of new tool, but my justifications often lack a solid foundation.  When it comes to purchasing new equipment, I spend a great deal of time researching my options beforehand.  There have been times, admittedly, where I’ve found myself caught up in the panic of purchase frenzy, buying multiple tools back to back.  To avoid this, I try to prioritize my purchase list based on realistic expectations, not based on every possible condition that may occur.  I can’t possibly prepare for every potential disaster after all.  So in the words of Baloo the Bear, I tend to stick with the “bare necessities” plus a few extra items in case of emergencies.

I’m almost ashamed to admit that it took me well over a year of FJ ownership before I reached a stage where I was comfortable with the thought of trail damage. As a sport, rock crawling is a new thing for me. I’m used to driving off the beaten path through mud, snow, etc.  But the concept of intentionally putting a brand new vehicle in harm’s way completely escaped me.  I’ve always been taught to take care of the things I own in order to make them last as long as possible.  So for the first year or so, I enjoyed the FJ in relatively stock form (minus a few previously mentioned upgrades).  That was, at least, until a forum post caught my eye in January of 2009.

The post indicated that one of the better known FJ Cruiser organizations on the Atlantic, the FJ Northeasters, was gathering sponsors and participants for their 2nd annual run at Rausch Creek in Pennsylvania.  The key difference between to this event and previous gatherings, was that this particular event focused on folks who were new to rock crawling and trail runs.  This became even more obvious as they gathered confirmations for trail types, where  the majority of folks who responded to the invitation were signing up for the green-rated trails.  For those unfamiliar with color-based trail ratings, the green trails are generally considered the easiest to navigate and are the least likely to result in unwanted damage to your vehicle.

Based on the details provided, the event would last for two days, covering Friday and Saturday, with an optional third day for those who wanted to hang around after the main event.  Lodging options ranged from tent-based camping, to RV-type parks, to one of several local hotels in the nearby area.  They even managed to reserve one of the more popular family restaurants in the local area and arranged meals for anyone participating.  Mind you, participants were still responsible for paying their way, but each new detail revealed that this was a very well-organized event.  For someone looking to test their vehicle limits as well as their own driving abilities, in a more controlled environment, this event sounded absolutely perfect.

It wasn’t long after hearing of the event that I broached the topic with the rest of my family.  Despite my incessant grinning and insistence that this would be the greatest event of their lives, the rest of my family was not so easily convinced.  Apparently the thought of hanging out in a tent for two days straight was just not all that appealing.  So as a compromise, I opted for one of the local hotels which made the will-bending process a bit easier.  After a few more minor adjustments to the schedule, I was able to solidly confirm our participation in the event.  To say I was excited would be a grave understatement.  I was absolutely thrilled!  It wasn’t until after I signed up that the realization hit me… I didn’t own a single piece of recovery gear.  I guess it was time to do some research…

For safety reasons, I should point out that any modifications to the stock electrical system have the potential for causing harm to either the vehicle or the passengers within or both.  Building a secondary electrical backup system for accessories does require some knowledge of electrical properties and systems.  If you are not comfortable with this type of modification, I highly recommend taking your vehicle to a professional installation shop to have the work done.

That being said, it was time to start digging up all the necessary parts.  I actually began my research with the intention of piecing the system together bit by bit.  Given the complexity of what I required, I figured this was the only way to achieve my end goal.  So imagine my surprise when I discovered that Dirty Parts, a small off-road parts supplier in southern California, was offering a complete dual-battery electrical upgrade kit specifically designed for the FJ Cruiser.

For those with a similar interest, the Dirty Parts Dual Battery Kit comes with everything required to integrate a second battery into the existing electrical system, with the exception of the battery itself.  The kit is designed to work with a variety of different battery configurations, but Dirty Parts recommends using either Optima or Odyssey brand batteries, both of which have a great reputation for longevity and durability in the industry.  In addition to the parts themselves, the kit also comes with a comprehensive set of instructions and diagrams that make installation nearly foolproof.  After receiving my kit, I was able to complete the installation in roughly two hours time.  And I suspect that those with more experience could probably complete the installation in even less time.

Since the number of parts is rather extensive, I won’t bore you with the details of every nut, bolt and washer.  But I do feel the need to point out a few items in particular.  The kit comes with a 200 amp relay assembly, which mounts directly to the side of a customized battery tray.  This design not only provides a solid mounting surface for the relay, but provides quick and easy access to many of the cables and wires involved.  All electrical cables are pre-cut to their proper lengths, fully-soldered and heat-shrunk before being wrapped and bagged for shipping.  In addition, the larger-gauge cables, such as those  that run directly between the batteries, are wrapped in wire loom to further reduce the chances of any abrasion occurring after installation.  The kit also includes a three-position switch that allows you to run in three possible configurations:

• Dual On (normal mode) – The factory battery is used to start the vehicle.  Both factory and aftermarket batteries are charged while the engine is running.  Only the factory battery is used by factory accessories when the engine is off.
• Dual Off (stock mode) – Returns vehicle to factory settings and prevents both batteries from draining simultaneously in the event of an alternator failure.
• Emer On (emergency mode) – Both batteries are used to start the vehicle in the event that the factory battery is accidentally drained.  Both batteries are used by factory accessories when the engine is off.

Dirty Parts rounds out their kit with all required fuses, terminals and terminal boots for the larger wires, and a variety of mounting hardware.  Suffice it to say, a great deal of attention has been spent selecting and/or manufacturing each and every component, making this kit more than complete.  I’m constantly amazed at my good fortune when it comes to finding great vendors and great products.  Dirty Parts is just one more name to add to a growing list of customer-friendly parts suppliers.  If you’re in the market for a dual-battery kit for your FJ Cruiser, I don’t think there’s a better option available than the Dirty Parts Dual Battery Kit.

Update:

Added some pictures post-installation.  These are not the greatest photos, but they’re the only ones I have that show the secondary battery install prior to other upgrades.  Any other pictures would reveal future projects and would be chronologically out of sync so I stuck with these for now.  Unfortunately, I never got around to getting any pictures of the kit itself, prior to installation.  I’m making a note to myself for future installs… it’s always nice to see all the parts prior to an upgrade.  Hopefully I’ll remember this during future projects.  I ended up selecting an Odyssey brand deep-cycle battery (model 1500DT) for my setup because it is rated a little better and the average lifespan is statistically higher than the comparable Optima models.  Odyssey brand batteries also come with a longer warranty.

In the pictures you’ll notice that the 3-position switch is mounted to the driver’s side inner-fender well, inside the engine compartment.  The standard installation instructions recommend placing it near the bottom of the driver’s side dash, inside the cabin.  But I wanted the switch up higher and more directly accessible from the engine bay so I chose this location.  Although I’ve never had any elemental-exposure issues with the current location, I should point out that this switch is not waterproof so take caution if you follow my lead.

To date, I’m really happy with this setup. The Dirty Parts dual battery kit offers everything you need in one complete package. I now have a backup battery in place in the event that the primary fails and the relative isolation of the secondary system allows me to easily add accessories to the vehicle without compromising the stock electrical system. If you are interested in adding an auxiliary fuse panel to this setup please see part two in this series (linked below).

Related Articles:

Adding an Auxiliary Fuse Panel to the FJ Cruiser
Adding 12-Volt Power Outlets to an FJ Cruiser

The FJ Cruiser does indeed lack certain luxury features, but despite its low introductory pricing, it comes very well equipped.  With a focus on functionality instead of features, Toyota did a great job of determining what was needed in a vehicle aimed at the off-roading community.  No doubt the lack of available luxury items is intended to reduce production costs.  But based on the target demographic, Toyota was smart enough to realize that for many owners, features such as dual climate control would only add unnecessary cost.  So by eliminating some of these options, Toyota was able to produce a reasonably-priced but very capable vehicle.

One of the sacrifices you do make with the FJ Cruiser comes at the cost of reduced cargo and storage space.  The FJ is big in spirit but internal cargo space is somewhat limited due to the shorter wheelbase.  With the rear seats folded down, owners gain roughly six feet of length in the rear cargo area which may sound like a lot but it disappears pretty quickly once the packing begins.  I guess it’s just the nature of owning a smaller vehicle.  Toyota designed the FJ to be nimble on the trail which typically results in a shorter wheel base, which of course translates to less internal storage.  Luckily there are plenty of options available now to resolve this issue.  One of the most popular solutions to this problem is to add a roof rack to the vehicle.

The FJ Cruiser comes with the option of a powder-coated aluminum roof rack.  The design of the stock rack is very well thought out and the style of it complements the FJ’s body lines very well.  The main problem with the stock rack is that being aluminum, it can only handle around 130lbs of distributed weight.  By the time you get a full load-out of gear packed up, the total weight could very easily exceed 130lbs, making the stock rack somewhat useless.  It was because of this that I began looking for an alternate solution.

I hemmed and hawed for quite some time, actually, before finalizing my decision on an aftermarket rack.  Jumping back into the FJ Cruiser Forums led me to a half-dozen different options, all of which had their pros and cons.  But among the choices, one manufacturer stood out above the rest… Gobi Racks.  I particularly liked the design and look of the Gobi Stealth roof rack since it maintained a much lower profile than other styles.  Another feature I liked about the Gobi roof racks was that they conformed to the body lines of the vehicle.  Whenever possible, I prefer to have the look and feel of my aftermarket upgrades match the original style of the vehicle.  Nothing looks worse to me than attaching some tacky piece of equipment to a nice looking vehicle, only to have it stick out like a sore thumb.

One of the big pluses to choosing Gobi Racks is that they will also customize a roof rack to fit your needs.  In my case, the bright sunny view through my 40″x20″ Webasto sunroof would end up being obliterated by most roof racks.  Not a problem for Gobi.  All I needed to do was provide them with the location and dimensions of the sunroof and they were able to modify their standard Stealth design to accommodate it.  All Gobi racks come with light-mounting brackets (lights are optional) and are pre-wired inside the tubing to make adding lights that much easier.  They are also one of the sturdiest racks available with a weight rating of 300lbs and are fully powder-coated to avoid corrosion.  Both the Stealth and the Ranger styles come with an expanded metal floor which means no more worries about cargo falling through the slats.

To gain access to your Gobi roof rack, Gobi also offers a rear ladder for the FJ Cruiser.  The ladder is just as sturdy as their racks and is custom designed to fit right over the rear door with no drilling required.  Getting cargo up and down is considerably easier using their ladder as it functions as both steps and hand-holds.  The Gobi ladder for the FJ Cruiser only weighs about 30lbs and mounts on the driver’s side of the rear door to help reduce stress to the hinges.

Gobi also offers equipment mounting brackets designed specifically to mount to their roof racks.  This is especially nice because an axe, shovel and hi-lift jack are quite bulky and clunky when stored inside.  These mounting brackets are designed with large, easy-to-turn knurled knobs that allow equipment to be easily clamped down and avoid excessive rattling during an off-roading expedition.  The mounting brackets are coated in a rubberized plastic which helps to prevent corrosion and vibration, as well as a better grip for your tools.  Plus, each of the clamping knobs has a built-in locking mechanism with a key to reduce the chance of losing your emergency equipment to would-be thieves.

Because of the customizing required to accommodate the sunroof, it took Gobi a little bit longer to ship the parts.  But even with the additional changes I still received my parts in about two weeks.  I’d like to point out that installation of any full-sized steel rack does require a second pair of hands unless you’re particularly ingenious or don’t mind scratching your roof paint.  All Gobi racks come packaged with the necessary hardware required to secure them to the FJ’s roof.  Gobi racks mount using the stock roof rack mount locations which means no drilling is required (a definite bonus) unless you’re running light wires or other equipment into the cabin interior.  The hi-lift, shovel and axe mounts simply bolt onto the roof rack once it’s secured in place.  The rear ladder is secured using allen-head bolts and custom brackets.  The bolts, which act as set screws, effectively clamp the ladder brackets over the top and bottom of the rear door.  So again, no drilling required.

The end result after getting all the parts properly mounted is not only functionally more capable, but quite appealing visually too, in my opinion.  I now have the ability to haul my hi-lift jack, shovel, axe and an enormous amount of additional equipment on the roof if I run out of room inside.  The heavier-duty roof racks, such as Gobi’s, are designed to provide a great platform for securing extra fuel canisters, camping equipment or even a full-sized roof-top tent.  After almost a year and a half, I am still loving all of my Gobi equipment and highly recommend their products to anyone looking for a great-quality roof rack, rear ladder, or equipment mounting brackets.  I’ve included some pictures below to give you a better idea of what the Gobi Stealth roof rack looks like mounted to an FJ Cruiser.  Enjoy!

UPDATE:

It’s been almost two years and 40k miles now since I swapped out the suspension and tires and I must say, I couldn’t be happier with my purchase decisions. The performance of both the Icon suspension and the Nitto Terra Grapplers has been superb. The tires do have a slight whine to them at highway speeds but no more so than the BFG all-terrains.  And their performance in snow, mud, rocks and dirt has been quite good. I’ve never been stuck at any obstacle during off-roading events, although I did have difficulty getting up a mud-slicked trail during a recent trip to Vermont. In the Nittos’ defense though, the hill was quite steep, and the Terra Grapplers are an all-terrain tire, not a mud-terrain. Since the FJ is first and foremost a daily commuter, I went with an all-terrain design to get better mileage, traction and less wear and tear. So I’m still quite happy with my choice. Mud-terrain tires would definitely excel in the steep, muddy areas. But when it comes to rocks, the Terra Grapplers are superb and their highway manners are quite gentlemanly as well. Add to that fact they’re priced well below the BFGoodrich all-terrain series and you’ve got yourself a killer tire. Plus, after nearly 40k miles of use, I still have over half the original tread remaining.  All in all, if anyone is looking for a great all-season tire that doesn’t cost a fortune, I highly recommend the Nitto Terra Grappler.

As far as the Icon suspension is concerned, it’s definitely taken some abuse during a few of the trips up to Rausch Creek Off-Road Park. That combined with almost two years of wear and tear resulted in damaged seals in the passenger-side coil-over and one of the rear shocks. With several components down for the count, I contacted Icon to see about getting replacement parts. In case I didn’t mention it before, one of the biggest advantages to a coil-over system like Icon’s is that they are completely rebuildable. The initial purchase price is a bit more than their non-rebuildable counterparts, but since they last about two years and a rebuild only costs an average of $50, it’s more than worth the up-front investment. The rear shocks are not rebuildable but you can purchase a brand new Icon rear shock for around $90.

Since I needed to send the coil-overs directly to Icon to be rebuilt I decided to take advantage of the opportunity and try to do the work myself. Surprisingly, removing the Icon coil-overs from the FJ was much simpler than I anticipated. So simple, in fact, that I eventually took on the task of re-installing the coil-overs once they were returned, along with swapping out both of the rear shocks. If you have a semi-decent set of tools and the initiative I now recommend you do this type of work yourself. I’d just always assumed it was beyond me and taken the vehicle to a shop. I was very surprised to find out how easy this was to accomplish. And the confidence and knowledge I gained from that experience has led me to take on even more challenging tasks and modifications.

Based on a good past experience as well as overly-positive input from FJ Cruiser forum members, my first decision was to upgrade my front suspension using 2.5″ racing coil-overs manufactured by Donahoe Racing (DR). It should be noted that Donahoe Racing has since been sold to Icon Vehicle Dynamics (IVD) or Icon as they have now become known in the forums. Icon’s engineering and design of the products is identical to the original product and their reputation for producing quality parts has become very well established in a very short period of time. Even though my first revision coil-overs were DR, for the sake of this post and any future posts, I’ll be referring to the company as Icon, Icon Vehicle Dynamics or IVD since I’m sure anyone looking for this product will want to reference the current company rather than the previous manufacturer.

Back on topic… after purchasing the new Icon coil-overs in late 2007, I am happy to report that they completely eliminated the nose diving issues I had experienced with the stock setup. And because they are fully adjustable up to three inches in height, I was able to dial them in so that the truck was now level from front to rear. Since adding the Icon coil-overs, there is a world of difference both in stopping and cornering as well as dampening when hitting bumps or pot holes.

When it comes to upgrading the front suspension of the FJ Cruiser, some people will recommend replacing the front upper control arm (UCA) when replacing the stock coil-overs, citing steering problems or other issues related to alignment if you don’t. However, my experience as well as that of many other FJ owners, indicates that this is unnecessary unless you plan to extend the coil-overs to their full height of three inches. It’s possible I just had a good alignment shop, but I had absolutely no issues when running the new coil-overs with the stock UCA.

A few months after the front suspension upgrade, I came across two additional products that caught my eye. One was the Man-A-Fre spare fuel tank, designed to fit in the space behind the rear axle. The second product was the Expedition-One rear swing-out bumper. While I have yet to upgrade to either one of these products, I realized at the time that such products would add considerable weight to the rear end of the FJ and as such, the stock suspension would simply not support the extra pounds in the long run. This was the primary reason why I decided to finish what I started several months before.

Being very pleased with my front suspension upgrade, I once again contacted Icon Vehicle Dynamics, to determine what they offered in terms of a rear suspension solution. As it turned out, they now offered multiple suspension kits ranging from shock and spring replacements, to more extensive kids including shock reservoirs, billet aluminum control arms and much more. Based on my own first-hand experience and that of many others within the FJ Forums, if you are in the market for suspension upgrades for the FJ Cruiser, you cannot go wrong with Icon’s products. I should point out though, that those unfamiliar with Icon’s prices might want to leave their credit cards at home for the first visit. Quality, as should be expected, does come with a rather steep price tag at times. But in Icon’s case, the end result will no doubt be one of the the best upgrades you purchase for your FJ.

Having won me over with their front suspension, it only took a brief discussion with Icon’s engineers over the phone, to ensure that the new springs and shocks would handle the additional weight of a steel bumper and/or spare tank. A few minutes later, I had effectively completed my Stage One suspension kit by ordering new Icon springs and shocks for the rear. Combined with the recently installed Icon front coil-overs, I would effectively increase the FJ’s height by about three inches. Plus, I would be well prepared for any future mods resulting in additional weight on the rear end.

But my plan was only halfway complete.  Tune in tomorrow for the rest of the story…

Just kidding.

That would be cruel.

Luckily, that gap has long since passed so I can dive right back into the magical madness of modding.  I’m off to dig through some more photos to see if I can sort out the dates and times of various upgrades.  With that large of a gap there’s going to be some guesswork in the time frames but I’ll do my best.

UPDATE:  Okay, after doing a bit more research it seems that I simply failed to capture eight months of upgrades on camera.  I thought that was a little odd.  I found photos taken in February of 2008 that show several major modifications, mods that would have required additional upgrades prior to their installation.  But apparently, I have no photos to prove these mods ever took place.  Weird.  Since most of the products in question are commercially available to anyone, I’ve decided I’ll just end up adding some photos from the vendors’ site to help illustrate when I need to.  Stay tuned for another post later this evening…

Without sounding like some old codger who balks at every new piece of electronics, I do wonder at times if letting advanced technology dictate the outcome in certain situations is really the best option.  Automobiles in general, not just high-cost vehicles, are becoming more and more complex, incorporating computers at every possible turn to help regulate systems that, in turn, are used to run other pieces of computerized equipment.  I do appreciate the fact that these types of technology are being used to develop features like more advanced air bags and other safety systems.  As much time as many of us spend in our vehicles, safety is becoming more and more of a concern.  These same types of technologies are being used to assist in the off-roading community as well.  And again, part of me really appreciates the ingenuity of this type of advancement.  But there comes a point where you no longer require any type of skills to compete because you are entirely reliant on that same technology to get you in and back out of any delicate situations.  This is where I begin to question whether the tools of technology are indeed helping or hurting.  It seems, from my view point, that this type of technology is just advanced enough to get someone new to the sport into trouble.  And Murphy’s Law dictates that the same technology that gets us in, will no doubt fail us at the most inopportune moment on the way out.

Setting some of the advanced technologies and vehicular gadgetry aside for the moment, just look at the average equipment load used by many off-roaders.  I’m certainly not saying that one shouldn’t prepare oneself for the eventuality of disaster, big and small.  Preparedness is the mark of a realist, not a pessimist.  My ethical question to the readers is this… Does excessive quantity or quality of equipment ruin or destroy the experience gained from not having the equipment at all?  Is a greater quantity or better quality of gear considered cheating?  If so, at what point do we limit the amount of gear we use?  Where is the magic threshold past which the experience becomes pointless? To clarify my point, take two off-roading enthusiasts and pit them against one another in a side by side race through an overland off-roading obstacle course.  Assuming that both individuals have the same level of experience, it would seem reasonable that whoever has the better equipment will most likely win the race, yes?  To outside viewers, giving one competitor better equipment is akin to cheating since the second individual is obviously handicapped by comparison.  If I am competitor number one and I am provided with a newer model Mercedes Unimog, while competitor number two receives a 1978 Datsun Hustler, isn’t the competition a bit one-sided?  Wouldn’t most consider this to be an unfair advantage?

I’ll admit that compared to many in the off-roading community, I am still relatively new to the sport.  And like most enthusiasts, I am appreciative of good equipment.  But there are times when I wonder whether this extra gear is truly advantageous or simply a provision for a false sense of security.  Does my dependency on the equipment actually detract from the overall experience I gain?  At this point, I really can’t tell you.  I personally run with quite a bit of equipment on board since I don’t like being caught unaware.  So I’m certainly not pointing fingers at those folks who like to be prepared.  But like most things in life, winning often comes down to the amount of resources available to you.  From a purely ethical standpoint, I’m just not so certain I approve of that idea.

What do you think?

Thankfully, the new models now come with decent options for tires, offering either BFGoodrich Rugged Terrain or All-Terrain series tires. This is a definite bonus to new owners since they’re getting a decent tread pattern right off the bat. But in my case, in early 2007, Dunlops were all the rage. And they were gone as quickly as I could get my hands on a replacement set.

So what’s next? My first thoughts after replacing the tires went directly to the undercarriage. It’s true, Toyota does offer some skid plating protection with the stock platform. They even offer the option of a heavier gauge, aluminum skid plate that mounts directly below the front bumper. One of the upgrade packages I purchased included this as an option. And for those who stick with daily commuting and the occasional forest road, this is more than enough. But for anyone who plans to run their vehicle through rougher terrain, a quick inspection of the FJ’s underbelly reveals some definite vulnerabilities. The heavier front skid does offer considerable more protection than the much-thinner sheet metal skids found under the motor and transmission. And given that most objects will be struck while moving in a forward direction, this location works well enough. The problem occurs when you continue driving over the obstacle and it moves past the heavier skid, heading straight for the sheet metal skids, or worse, other crucial components that have no protection whatsoever. Obviously, protecting the undercarriage components was a top priority. So I began researching my options to see what, if anything, was available in aftermarket parts.

I’d like to segue for just a moment and point out one of the greatest resources available for current and future FJ Cruiser owners, the FJ Cruiser Forums. I’ve been a member since before I even owned an FJ and have remained a loyal visitor and contributor for almost three years now. I have been a member of dozens of online forums in the past, and none have proven more useful and more friendly than the FJ Cruiser forums. Like all forums, some filtering is required at times to get the answers you require. But all in all, the forums are comprised of a great bunch of folks who all share one thing in common, an ever-growing appreciation and love of the FJ Cruiser platform. These forums have proven themselves again and again, to be one of the best resources online for FJ Cruiser related information.  It was while digging around on these forums that I first discovered BudBuilt products.

At the time, there weren’t quite as many options for underbelly skid plates as there are now.  You can actually purchase quality skid plates from half a dozen different manufacturers nowadays.  But if you’re looking for heavy-duty, precision-laser-cut, 3/16″ steel protection, nothing beats a Budbuilt.  Located in North Carolina, Budbuilt is a family-owned business, operated primarily by Bud Rosenberger.  Bud has spent the last decade or so earning quite a reputation for his company, a reputation that speaks highly of both his products and his commitment to customer service.  The quality of these skids is so good in fact, that the Toyota Trail Teams themselves ordered complete sets for all of their FJ Cruisers.  It didn’t take long to convince me that Budbuilts were the only way to go.  Bud currently has plans to overhaul their company website so I’m not sure how long links will remain active.  But for the quick and dirty info, Bud currently offers skid plates for the following items:

• Bumper Gap Skid – Fills the gap between the stock bumper and the front Budbuilt skid plate
• Front Skid – Protects the front side of the engine and coolers
• Engine (Mid) Skid – Protects the underside of the engine, oil pan, etc.  Comes with drain hole.
• Transmission / Transfer Case Skid – Protects the remaining drive train components
• Gas Tank Skid (Medium/Heavy Duty Options) – Replaces the stock resin skid with beefy steel
• Transmission Cross-Member – Used to partially mount the trans and gas tank skids
• Lower Link Skids – Protects the front anchor point for the rear lower control arms
• Rear Differential Skid – Protects the back side of the rear differential and the e-locker

Bud offers bare metal or powder-coating options in a multitude of colors if you prefer.  He also offers stainless steel skids for a bit more if you prefer a low-maintenance option.  All skids are cut from 3/16″ steel plates, offering a great layer of protection between your undercarriage and that two-ton boulder you’re attempting to clear.  If you’d like to get more information on Budbuilt skids for your FJ Cruiser, you can do so here.  While you’re there, check out his other great Toyota products.  Budbuilt offers plating, sliders and much more.  And they’re not just limited to FJ Cruisers.  They offer similar products for other Toyota platforms as well.  All in all, Bud’s a great guy to work with and you cannot go wrong if you’re looking for the ultimate in protective skid plating.

For posterity’s sake and for those who are interested in seeing the stock setup vs. the Budbuilt skid plating, I’ve included a few before and after shots below.  You’ll note that Toyota’s stock front skid actually ends up reducing the approach angle because of the way it’s mounted.  It’s really not the best design in my opinion.  But take a look at the Budbuilt skid that replaces it.  Not only is it laser-cut for a professionally finished look, but the design of the Budbuilt skid allows it to mount much higher and closer to the underside of the FJ.

As a testament to the Budbuilt quality, I’ve had mine on for almost three years now and have given them a good run for the money on trail runs and rock crawling events in our area.  I’ve run blue, purple and black trails up at Rausch Creek in Pennsylvania and the Budbuilt skids have taken every boulder, stump and other obstacle I can throw at them.  There is no doubt that the Budbuilt skids are one of the best upgrades I’ve purchased for my FJ and I highly recommend giving Bud a call today if you want the best protection available for your FJ Cruiser’s undercarriage.

In the past, my first customization/modification would typically consist of new tires and wheels.  The FJ Cruiser was one of the first vehicles to ever produce a stock wheel design that I actually liked.  Enough so, that I decided not to replace the wheels until something better came along.  As of this writing, I have yet to find a wheel I like better.  The tires were a different story entirely, however.  Having lived in Maryland for the last twelve years, the winters here provide both snow and ice a-plenty.  It’s nothing like our northern counterparts, but it’s enough that without some aggressive all-terrain or mud-terrain tires, you’re more likely to be left sitting where you stand, so to speak.  Almost all of my previous Ford trucks had run BFGoodrich AT K/O tires, and with very good luck I might add.  The BFG ATs are comprised of a fairly hard rubber compound making them last for easily 60K miles.  Many who have run them in the past have reported numbers nearing 100K in terms of mileage gained out of a single set.  They also do remarkably well in the snow.  Suffice it to say, I’ve been very happy with them in the past and was now in the market for a new set of five of these tires in the FJ’s stock size of 265/70R17.

Did I mention that my first mod is usually tires and wheels?  Well, as it turned out, getting five tires in the size I needed was simply not an option.  Due to a change in design and the resulting retooling of the their equipment, BFG was not currently stocking the size I needed.  Based on reports from local tire suppliers, there was no way to know when I’d see my potential replacements.  So while I waited for new tires, I decided to move on to the next mod in my plan book, heated leather seats.

Now I realize that some of you are led to scoff at my whimsical spending habits.  Perhaps you’re right.  Perhaps spending my hard-earned cash to upgrade a virtually brand new seat is a complete waste of time and resources.  But hopefully some of you out there who have owned vehicles with heated leather can back me up when I say, that this is one of the best upgrades I’ve ever paid for on a vehicle.  Adding to the pros column, is the fact that the aftermarket leather is of considerably better quality than most of what you’ll see from the factory.  And for winter season, there’s nothing like a heated seat to get you going on those cold mornings.  Admittedly, this mod does not enhance the vehicle’s performance or mechanical capabilities, but as enhancements go, it does play a part in making the long trips more comfortable.  And although Toyota offers a liquid-resistant, breathable fabric for the FJ seats, a good quality leather will outlast fabric by years and make it much easier to clean up spills, mud, etc.  So I felt completely justified and comfortable with my purchase.

It didn’t take me long to locate a customization shop that specialized in leather seating.  After calling around a bit, I finally decided on E & G Classics in Columbia, Maryland.  The morning I arrived at E & G to discuss my leather options in more detail, I was presented with a small dilemma, and perhaps the one and only impulse purchase I’ve ever made for the FJ – a powered sunroof.  Now I won’t say that I didn’t necessarily plan to get a sunroof installed at some point.  But I had certainly not planned to get one installed that day.  I believe the trick is to stay as far away from the brochure rack as possible in places such as these.  But it was too late.  Once I saw the pictures I was completely sold on the idea.  I’ll admit, the thought of someone chopping a 40″x20″ hole in a brand new vehicle was a bit disconcerting.  But the end result was more than worth the apprehension.

In the end I selected Katzkin leather seating with the FJ Cruiser logo embroidered in the seat backs and a Webasto 790 sunroof.  Having owned the vehicle for almost three years now, I can tell you that both products are still holding up as well as the day I purchased them and I couldn’t be happier.  And like icing on the cake, it was only eight days later that I was finally able to order five new BFG AT K/O tires.   So all in all, February of 2007 was a good month for the FJ.

Full Size and Easily Accessible Spare Tire

17″ Steel Wheels

Breathable Water-Resistant Fabric Seats

Waterproof Flooring

115v A/C Outlet

Non-Metallic Paint

Cargo Tie Downs

Triple Wiper Action

Durable Seat Back Covers

Over-Sized Console Controls

Triple Gauge Cluster

Rear Hatch Window

FJ Cruiser Assembly Demo

I guess that about rounds things up for the moment. I’d really like to find a demo video similar to those above that goes into detail on the 4.0L V6 engine used to power the FJ Cruiser. But at the moment I’m coming up empty. I’ll see what else I can dig up in the next few days and post up whatever I find.

Automatic Transmission Demo

Manual Transmission Demo

So that covers getting power to the rear wheels.  How about the front?  Though the FJ is offered in a two-wheel-drive model, the majority of the units sold are of the four-wheel-drive variety.  This should come as no surprise since Toyota is marketing this vehicle as an ultimate off-roader.  To accommodate this requirement, Toyota incorporated a transfer case with a 2.56:1 gear ratio in low gear.  But that’s not all.  To further assist FJ Cruiser owners in getting through those tough spots, Toyota offers a system known as Active Traction Control or A-TRAC into the mix.  This system combined with the ability to completely lock the rear differential, allows the FJ to navigate through some serious obstacles.  Check out the following videos for more details on the A-TRAC system and the locking rear diff.

Active Traction Control System Demo

Locking Rear Differential Demo

Given today’s advanced mechanical and electrical technologies, Toyota had to take extra steps to ensure that the FJ Cruisers gear boxes, breather assemblies and electrical systems would not fall victim to damage or failure as a result of extensive water contact or ingestion. Given the FJ’s capabilities, Toyota assumed from the get-go that advanced water fording capabilities would be required. Check out the last video to see how they built the FJ to withstand water-crossing conditions.

Water Fording Demo

Well that about sums up today’s post. It’s a bit shorter than some of the previous entries, but hopefully I made up for the lack of quantity with quality. Don’t forget to check out the additional video footage at the top left-hand corner of some of the demos. These movies provide actual footage of the FJ Cruiser doing what it does best. Come back and see me tomorrow evening for the last but largest collection of Toyota’s video demonstrations outlining features from wipers and paint to wheels and floors. There’s a lot more to come so stay tuned!

I could spend a lot of time detailing the mechanics behind the scenes, but it’s actually much easier to let Toyota do the explaining for me. The first and perhaps most important element incorporated into the FJ’s design was the frame. Check out the video below for more details.

Frame Engineering Demo

Next up on the list of items to discuss is the FJ Cruiser’s suspension system. Although I’ve long since replaced the stock setup, FJ Cruisers are designed to be very capable right off the showroom floor. As the next demo indicates, the FJ Cruiser comes equipped with an independent front suspension (IFS) system using coil-overs with high-mounted upper control arms. Before you scoff at the IFS, keep in mind that most of my daily travel in the FJ is done on paved roads and the IFS provides a much smoother ride than a solid front axle. This is the primary reason why Toyota designed the FJ with IFS. But that’s not to say the FJ is a street machine. The FJ exhibits great handling both on- and off-road. Check out the next video for more details on the FJ’s front suspension system.

Front Suspension Engineering Demo

Both literally and figuratively not far behind, the FJ Cruiser’s rear suspension suspension system is also designed with off-roading in mind. In addition to a solid rear axle, the FJ Cruiser’s four-link, coil-over suspension eliminates the traditional problems associated with leaf spring setups. Plus, by reducing the size of the rear stabilizer bar, Toyota was able to increase the overall articulation as well. Check out the next video for more rear suspension details.

Rear Suspension Engineering Demo

Realizing that the FJ Cruiser is marketed towards the off-roading community, Toyota took the time to incorporate additional protection for the undercarriage components. By adding skid plating to the engine, transmission and gas tank, owners have a lot less to worry about when traversing more difficult terrain. For rocker panel protection, Toyota also offers the option of frame-mounted rock rails. Check out the next video for more undercarriage details.

Undercarriage Engineering Demo

The body design may be new, but the elements that went into creating the FJ Cruiser’s body structure and overlay panels were not. Check out the next video for more details.

Body Engineering Demo

Hopefully by now, you’re beginning to see that the FJ Cruiser is not merely the next SUV to hit the soccer mom market. It’s truly a remarkable vehicle with honest-to-goodness off-roading capabilities. The above video demonstrations are but a few in number. I’ll post up more videos and details within the next few days. In the meantime, the next time you see an FJ Cruiser driving down the street or climbing the nearest mountain, you’ll have a much better idea of what lies hidden beneath the FJ’s seemingly-innocent skin. Enjoy!

My first encounter with Toyota’s FJ Cruiser platform was, oddly enough, not on the street or on a car lot.  Our paths initially converged, believe it or not, in the overly-commercialized alleyways of the local town mall.  My wife and I, while enjoying a brief but leisurely reprieve from our busy work schedule, came out of one of the mall shops only to be presented with a vehicle unlike anything I had ever seen.  To say it’s unique in style is a rather broad understatement.  The Toyota FJ Cruiser is a most refreshing combination of nooks and crannies, achieving both form and function in its design.  Unfortunately, because it was a mall display, all the doors were locked, preventing lookie loos like myself from getting a true first-hand impression.  But that did not prevent me from curiously peeking and peering inside through any glass I could find.  The encounter was brief, but succeeded in planting a seed, a seed which began to slowly grow.

I feel the need to state up front that my intentions when originally purchasing my Toyota FJ Cruiser were not entirely based on expeditionary trips.  At the height of the gas crisis when diesel prices were hovering near or above five dollars a gallon, I was the poor sap sitting with his 2005 Ford F-350.  Powered by a 6.0 liter Powerstroke diesel engine, I had pulling power to spare.  Unfortunately, the same could not be said about the cash in my wallet.  This post is most certainly not a knock at Ford.  I’ve had a string of Ford diesel pickups over the years and loved every one of them.  But the price of diesel combined with a 2+ hour commute each day to work was putting my finances in a bit of a pinch.  This resulted in a truck that was getting driven about once a week in order to save on fuel costs. I eventually decided it was time to either sell it or trade it in.  It was a fateful second step, I must say.

It was shortly after I made the decision to sell the Ford, that I decided to stop by the local Toyota dealership and get a better view of the FJ Cruiser. I’ll save you all some time and leave out the days and days of negotiating tactics and dealer trips.  Suffice it to say, I was finally able to come to an agreement with one of the semi-local dealerships, trading my F-350 in for a brand new 2007 FJ Cruiser.  I spent the entire trip home from the dealer grinning sheepishly, elated with my purchase decision.  And not much has changed since. After almost three years of ownership, I am just as enamored with the FJ today as I was when I purchased it.  In fact, I am probably more in love with it now than I’ve ever been.  My hat’s off to Toyota for delivering a truly remarkable product.

The purpose of this blog will undoubtedly become clear in just a few short posts.  But in summary, I needed a place where I could document my vehicle “modding” madness. For those unfamiliar with the term “modding”, it’s simply a slang term used to refer to any modifications made to a product that alter that product from the original manufacturer’s intended design. In most cases, mine included, the intention behind the modifications is to improve the original product in some fashion.

My plan with this blog is to document, in great detail, the various thought processes that go into modifying a vehicle, and provide both textual (instructions) and graphical (photos) content to allow others to follow suit, should they choose to do so.  It will also serve as a historical reference, allowing me to look back months or years from now on past projects, reliving moments both sweet and sour.  Hopefully, anyone stopping by will benefit from my experiences, both good and bad.  But if not, I’m still thoroughly enjoying the process so it’s still a win-win in my book.  Please fee free to leave feedback if you have something you’d like to share that’s related to the content of this blog.