Adding an Auxiliary Fuse Panel to an FJ Cruiser

Tags: amperage, auxiliary battery, blue sea, dirty parts, fuse panel, fuses, fuses block, heat shrink tubing, isolator, wire loom

Adding an Auxiliary Fuse Panel to an FJ Cruiser

9 Responses

  1. I’m not sure if we’ve ‘met’ elsewhere, but I just found your site and would LOVE to feature some of your stuff in FJC Magazine. Send me an e-mail if you’re interested :)
    Shane

    Shane Williams November 2, 2010 at 9:16 am #
  2. Shane,

    I sent you an email about a week ago in follow-up to your request. If you didn’t receive it please let me know and I’ll try to coordinate by other means. Thanks again for your interest.

    Expeditionr November 16, 2010 at 3:26 pm #
  3. You ran two power wires from the Blue Sea to the battery. Could I just use one 1/0 AWG wire from the battery then split it into two 4 AWG into the cabin? Thanks for the great write up!

    Dennis March 7, 2013 at 12:56 pm #
  4. Hi Dennis,

    In my case, I ran two separate wires to support 6 constantly hot connections and 6 switched connections. If you want all the connections to operate in the same fashion, you could just as easily leave the Blue Sea fuse panel in its stock form and run a single wire from the battery directly to the panel (fused inline of course), to achieve 12 constantly hot connections. The fuse panel is designed to support a maximum of 100 amps for all accessories, so unless your wire runs are lengthy (6 feet or more), using 6 or even 8 gauge wire should be sufficient to support 100 amps at peak usage. Using 0/1 gauge cable would only be required if your runs are 10-12 feet or more. In addition, you may find it difficult to attach such large gauge cables (0-4 gauge) to the fuse panel as the connectors are not designed for such large wire. Hope this helps and thanks for the feedback!

    Expeditionr March 9, 2013 at 11:04 pm #
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